Mori last night was very good, but not quite as good as our first outing in late December. Most of this is down I think to the gap between Chef Yoshi (who did the honours in December) and the new chef who we were in front of yesterday (I couldn’t quite catch his name despite asking twice: Tatsu?). He started in June and he seems not very confident yet. There were a number of times at the beginning of the meal where he seemed quite confused about what to give us next; on at least three occasions he had to reshape nigiri that he was on the verge of setting down; on one occasion he dropped one piece on its side and had to pick it up; Chef Maru had to intervene a number of times, a few times (as far as I could tell) to ask him what he’d given us and tell him what to do next, and on two occasions to show him how he wanted things sliced. He also didn’t seem to notice the baby fly that kept sitting on the lip of the cup of nikiri and on two occasions disappeared inside it before (thankfully) flying off. And he was, in general, not very good at describing the pieces (granted this is only a problem for English-only customers).
In happier news, the sushi itself was very good. We got the premium nigiri omakase which came to $160/head before tax for an appetizer, 25 pieces (including tamago) and dessert. Also, it was good to see that the restaurant was not as deserted as it was in late December. We were still the only people at the bar–we got there at 8 and no one else arrived at the bar before closing; and I doubt there had been anyone there earlier who’d already left, given it’s omakase-only at the bar. But there were a lot of people at the tables, including one very large Japanese party who were getting the omakase at their table–Chef Maru was preparing their food when he wasn’t checking on our chef.
On our next visit I’ll be sure to get a reservation when we can be in front of Chef Maru. The difference between the seasoned Chef Yoshi, who was entirely autonomous on our last visit, and a younger chef who seems to have just leveled up (he said he worked in Beverly Hills before but didn’t specify where) was very stark. And at that price point I think you want the full experience to be flawless, not just the fish and rice.
What were we served? In order (with highlights starred):
Appetizer: Housemade tofu with housemade soy sauce
Nigiri:
- Suzuki (Japanese seabass)
- Japanese scallop*
- Tasmanian ocean trout*
- Mizu Tako (Japanese octopus)
- Gindara (local cod), kelp-marinated
- Aji (Spanish mackerel)
- Sakura Masu* (cherry trout)
- Sawara
- Sockeye Salmon
- Kisu (Japanese smelt)
- Bigeye Tuna
- Inada (baby yellowtail)
- Kohada* (gizzard shad)
- Shiro Ebi* (baby white shrimp)
- Iwashi* (sardine)
- Kamasu* (barracuda)
- Bigeye chutoro
- Kani (snow crab)
- Noduguro* (blackthroat perch)
- Salted cod roe (missed the Japanese name)
- Ikura* (salmon roe), dashi marinated
- Santa Barbara uni* (sea urchin roe)
- Hokkaido uni*
- Anago (sea eel)
- Tamago
Dessert:
Duo of sapote in yuzu jelly and tofu mousse
Roasted green tea
I was a little disappointed to not get any handrolls at the end, as we’d enjoyed both we were given in December. In case you’re wondering we once again specified “no bluefin”. This confused our chef who asked Chef Maru who seemed put out at first. He told us we would only get 19-20 pieces as a result. But he warmed up to us after a bit, perhaps on account of our interest in the fish (remember, he was hovering close by our chef) and my superficial knowledge of the Japanese names of most of the fish; he also remembered halfway through the meal that we were there a few months ago and that we had been served by Yoshi. It does seem clear that the “no bluefin” request is still quite unusual at places like Mori, and I am a little curious about why more sushi consumers are not making this choice (and yes, for all I know I’m happily eating a lot of other fish that are not sustainable either).
The report with pictures will be up on my blog in a few weeks (I have picture resizing fatigue after Kinjiro and Gjusta–that report will be up next week) and I’ll link it here then for them that want to look.