A Master Class in Exquisite, Wonderful Sushi - Mori Sushi [Thoughts + Pics]

LOL… I know, I know. It’s a joke linus… kinda’.

IIRC, before Sushi School began sessions I had asked for a sushi bday rec.; someplace good that wasn’t too expensive where I could get my feet wet and up my sushi knowledge. When I asked posters why they didn’t rec Mori I was told it didn’t fit any of that criteria. I think there were also comments about not being able to appreciate the subtleties of Shunji or Mori (seasonality & knife work are good examples). They were responding to an interest I have right now, which is more than simple enjoyment. But I get what you’re saying and used to “oh brother” when posters would go on and on. I get it - stop the nonsense, pop it in your mouth and enjoy. Here, here! I’m a grown azz woman and can go where I want, so nah. But I’m putting learning over simple enjoyment right now, so…

Happy any way you want to do it sushi eating!

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Hi @Starchtrade,

Thanks for the info! :slight_smile: And that’s awesome that you got to meet Takeyoshi Honda himself! Wow. :slight_smile:

I can’t wait to try their other offerings. Do you have any recs from their lineup? Thanks.

Hi @TheCookie,

I know you enjoy good food, so I think you’ll enjoy Mori or Shunji regardless of where your sushi knowledge is: After all, the quality of fish, care in their dishes, etc., should come through no matter what. :slight_smile:

Besides that, though, you’ve been doing great exploring sushi in your Sushi School reports, really understanding what you enjoy and don’t, and being cognizant of more subtleties as well, which is awesome! :grin:

Ultimately, you can definitely go whenever you want to! :wink: Although, which sushi restaurant were you going to next?

Mr Honda takes Otaku-ism for sake to the next level, seriously. I don’t recall exactly what degree he holds but he’s super knowledgeable about cultivating sake rice (no doubt with Yamadanishiki as his specialty), and supposedly he still teachers/lectures on the subject at the university.

There are stories of him doing really out of the box things before competitors jumped on the bandwagon. So in a way he’s quite the pioneer in his field. One was that he was the first to come up with the super flat rice polishing technique, and came up with the machine and specs to do the job. Somehow that technology got picked up by Daishichi (or they commissioned them to help them with their own super flat rice polish machine), and Daishichi’s claim to fame is this technology which they claim to be their own… though this is all 2nd or 3rd hand information to be fair from industry folks. The most interesting tidbit I heard recently is that he adds katsuo bones (either crushed or grinded into powder) to mix into the soil to grow Yamadanishiki rice, with the aim to impart further umami flavors to the rice. Mori-san probably knows more on this (or perhaps @Starchtrade has heard more). Apparently he also has a super limited run of a 20 year aged sake, I want to say it is their top of the line Akitsu Junmai Daiginjo, carefully aged in sub zero temperatures. So perhaps a 1996 or 1997 vintage (coincidentally I saw the 1996 vintage online for sale in Hong Kong).

Yes, him and his crew are doing the rounds in California next month. There are at least two stops (both in Northern California) for sake related promotion/events.

Honda Shoten prides itself in researching and using the best of the best Yamadanishiki sake rice to brew their sake.
The concentration of these rice fields are spread across a few areas in Hyogo Prefecture, namely Kato City (west side formerly known as Yashiro), East side (formerly known as Tojo), North/North East side (Kami Tojo Area) and Miki City (Yokawa Machi). Together these fields make up what is called the Yamadanishiki rice field Special District A.

There are probably better and more detailed maps online, but my Google skillz aren’t Otaku enough.

So, as you can see, Tatsuriki or whoever is helping them do marketing, try to liken their appellation of high grade sake rice fields (and the differing qualities and flavors you get out of them) to terroir for wine, or someone calling them essentially the DRC of sake for comparison. It can be a little bit too much but it’s easy to see why that comparison was made.

There are quite a number of sake breweries that get their sake rice from these fields for their top of the line bottles, but even if using the supposed same rice, they don’t necessarily taste the same.

Tatsuriki’s exported top two bottles, Akitsu and Yokawa Yoneda, are named after the specific rice fields from which the rice for brewing originated from. Yokawa Yoneda is cultivated with organic fertilizers. Akitsu is seriously premium stuff, though I can’t say if that’s the pinnacle…but that bottle is super hard to top.

And yes they have different bottles using rice from different fields (but not necessarily all of them).

They have some fantastic looking labels too (here are some that are Japan only)

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hey man, i simply won’t stand for you shaming your own enjoyment.
i’m sure it’s got a lot of layers, just like everybody else’s.

respect.

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Thanks for the detailed report! Always a pleasure reading about what’s going on at Mori!

That’s Maru-san’s other way of saying that the best sake pairing with food (or selecting good sake in general) is not necessarily with the top of the line super polished, and/or most expensive bottles. Wing of Japan and Dreams Come True are a bit closer to one another in profile (though quite different in other ways), so the next best bottle of Born that is exported would probably be their Junmai Daiginjo Tokusen, which is dryer than the Gold based on specs.

Two possibly equivalent to the Born Gold and fun/apt bottles to try at Mori Sushi, if available for purchase in LA (no idea where) would be Gasanryu Gokugetsu Junmai Daiginjo (black bottle) and/or Gasanryu Kisaragi Daiginjo (blue bottle), which have that lively and clean characteristic as well (Gokugetsu and Kisaragi were designed and built for sushi/sashimi), and just like the Born Gold, both are single pasteurized (nama zume), and need to be kept and served chilled to lightly chilled for best results.

Kirinzan, was your Junmai Daiginjo bottle purchased from Mori? If so, was it listed on the menu or a sake special from his stash? Kirinzan sakes are very solid, from the low end to the high end.

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Hi @beefnoguy,

Thanks again! Wow, the rice knowledge is awesome! :smile: And yah, Maru-san was talking about the different grades of rice and how the Nihon no Sakura from Tatsuriki was using the highest grade possible. Interesting.

Have you tried the Tatsuriki Akitsu and Yokawa Yoneda?

Really after being blown away by their Nihon no Sakura that Maru-san personally recommended to us (and it was so good!), I can’t even imagine how much better it can get! :sweat_smile: :open_mouth:

I really feel like exploring more of the Tatsuriki line after that stellar taste. :slight_smile: Then again, I still have to one day finish the Born line (after your recommendation!) and the Koshi no Kanbai line that Mori seems to have the entire lineup of… One day. :sweat_smile:

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Hi @Sgee,

Did you enjoy your Kirinzan special release? :slight_smile: Which restaurant was offering this? Thanks!

Hi @Chowseeker1999, I had the Kirzan at a yakitori joint - Torishige in Tokyo. Thought it paired well, bright floral flavors upfront with a touch of savoriness at the tail end. Sorry not the best description; still a sake novice.

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Thanks @Sgee! :slight_smile: Would you recommend Torishige? Great yakitori?

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@Chowseeker1999 It was recommended by Chef Kazuo Nagayama at Daisan Harumi sushi. My first higher end yakitori experience in Tokyo; I enjoyed it. Honestly food quality is so high in Tokyo, its tough to have a bad meal.

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Thanks! Looks so good! :slight_smile: Bookmarked.

Uh oh, there are 2 Torishige coming up. Which one did you go to? Thanks @Sgee

Fyi I went to the branch in Ginza. 2nd floor right across Dover Street Mkt. :wink:

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Thanks for that @Chowseeker1999!

Yah, I think I would have enjoyed these places a few months ago. Good food is good food. But I’m glad to have waited, to appreciate it more.

[quote=“Chowseeker1999, post:135, topic:3358”]
Although, which sushi restaurant were you going to next?
[/quote]Funny you should mention that. I do have a couple of 201s still to post. But I’ve been working hard on a job thing and wanted to treat myself to a 301. St. Husband would probably prefer your CUT experience or @J_L’s Yazawa… decisions :thinking:

Anyway, thanks for all your encouragement. I’ll keep you posted.

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:kissing_heart:

Hi @TheCookie,

Nice! :slight_smile: I would say, if you ended up at CUT or Shunji or Mori, you’d still have a great meal! :grin:

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Mr Honda (President of Honda Shoten for Tatsuriki) was inspired to come up with Nihon No Sakura when he saw and heard former Prime Minister Shinzo Abe once remark “The Cherry Blossoms of Japan are the most beautiful”.

As far the rice, Nihon No Sakura is no doubt using Yamadanishiki from the top fields (special district A) as mentioned above. Would have to look at the label on the side, or the back of the bottle (or the “birth certificate” like docs Tatsuriki is famous for including in their packaging) to determine which designations.

One interesting tidbit about Nihon No Sakura is the water they use for brewing, is different than their say, Akitsu or Yokawa Yoneda bottles (supposed underground water by the Ibo river in Hyogo Prefecture). NNS’s brewing water actually comes from underground water from the foothills of Mount Fuji, which may explain how clean this tasted.

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Hi @beefnoguy,

Wow! Thanks for the additional history and info on the water. Fascinating. :slight_smile:

Have you been able to try much of the Tatsuriki lineup? If so, any favorites?

Oh, for Kirinzan, it was brought in. I’d be curious how the rest of their lineup compares when pairing with Mori.

And thanks for the rec on the Gasanryu Gokugetsu Junmai Daiginjo (black bottle) and/or Gasanryu Kisaragi! I don’t think I’ve seen that bottle at any of the local places, but I’ll keep my eye out for it. It sounds like a great pairing. :slight_smile:

Hikarimono (silver-skinned fish group) is in its height of season right now. Maru-san always gives his customers his A-game. Glad you enjoyed it so much - Thanks for sharing!

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Always great to read the latest and greatest with Mori Sushi under Maru-san!

I would probably go for the Tatsuriki Kome No Sasayaki Daiginjo YK 40-50 with the appetizers which Mori Sushi under Maru san has always offered, and then have either Yokawa Yoneda with the sushi or Denshu Tokubetsu Junmai. And I would save some Daiginjo in the event there is a crab course or crab sushi somewhere. Just a personal preference.

Maru san’s dashi is always freaking awesome, some of the best I’ve ever had. A great pairing with any umami centric sake (Tatsuriki Daiginjo works nicely too inbetween sips).

Tatsuriki actually came to visit San Francisco last 4 days for sales and events…they are actually in Los Angeles now. They have a great relationship with Mori Sushi and Maru san for obvious reasons. I tasted the Nihon No Sakura at least twice this week, and it’s still very nice and easy to drink, though it’s not my favorite of their portfolio (but certainly a crowd pleaser and more feminine in nature with great feel and dryness). If Mori carries Jingu or Kinkan (both are Tatsuriki Junmai Daiginjo), those might be slightly more affordable options that are bolder and more impactful yet super good. Of course Akitsu is always awesome despite the very high price, though Maru san once told me it doesn’t pair as well with sushi (probably his style of sushi is what he meant).Though until you try it with food and experience it for yourself you won’t know for sure. Though if I were to shell out big bucks, I’d go for Akitsu anyday over Born, Dassai Beyond, Kubota Tsugu, Hakkaisan Kongoshin and all the other bigwigs (including most Juyondai). But for you, maybe you should try Yokawa Yoneda next before moving to Akitsu.

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