Everybody knows about this place, especially now that Bourdain went there, but it’s great and locals still line up. If you have a place to eat them nearby, you can skip the line and get your filetti to go from the kitchen. (I’m not sure how easy that would be if you don’t speak Italian.) Five were €22.50. Just thinking about it I’m hungry again.
http://www.elizabethminchilliinrome.com/2015/01/dar-filettaro-rome
One of two places (the other being Perilli) that we went to in the 80s that’s still great, maybe better than ever. Filetti €7 each. Bread (optional, €1 per person) was pretty good, much better than the usual low Roman standard.
The giardiniera (€7), which on this visit was mostly eggplant (I presume it changes with the seasons) is an excellent foil for the baccalà.
So are the puntarelle (€7), if they’re in season.
Pro tip: go soon after they open when the oil and cooks are freshest and it’s not crowded.
