Some thoughts on Destroyer…
It’s hard to know how to evaluate this restaurant. But let’s start here: the food is seriously excellent. For the last couple weeks, when I work from home, I eat here. The menu continues to change regularly.
The best dish I’ve had is probably the beef tar tare. I am a huge fan of this dish in general. I’ve had it all over town. This is the best one in LA. It has everything you want. It retains the beefy flavor, which many nice ones lose. It has excellent textural contrast. It is addicting. I could eat a triple portion of it.
On the negative side, the place is not a comfortable place to eat. You’re likely eating at a communal table. You’re likely eating with bohemian designers, that may or may not drive you crazy. There isn’t a lot of space. There is a lot of work going on. It’s not pleasant.
That said, the dish quality here is absolutely on par with the very best fine restaurants in the world. I had a burnt sunchoke soup that was as good as an excellent sunchoke soup I had at Pierre Gagnaire in Paris. It was $13 here. Another way to put it: the six dishes I’ve had here were better than any dish I had in 18 courses at Mofofuku Ko.
You’ll generally need to order two things. So with a coffee, your meal is going to be in the $30 range. That is a lot for lunch. It’s also fine dining level quality food, served at prices impossible with a bigger, more comfortable operation.
One other thing to add: it is BUSY! So any idea that this is a passion project that will be gone within six months is wrong. If anything, they need to find a bigger space.