Located on a nondescript little corner in San Telmo is El Baqueano, a restaurant dedicated to carnes autoctonas (native meats). I’ve been visiting the restaurant for several years now and have probably been 6+ times.
It is a multi-course tasting menu which evolves from time to time, and after not having visited for about a year, the most recent visit had the largest menu evolution between visits. From alligator to llama to river fishes and so on, the preparations would have people lined up the door in NYC or SF. While I don’t always love every bite, it has been my favorite restaurant in the city for some time. Genuine and lovely service, a well-curated wine list, it is always an interesting experience. It is also such a different experience than most eats in Argentina.
I just had another fantastic meal there last week. They have undergone a modest remodel, prices are up a bit, and I can’t wait until I’m able to return. The surprise of the night was a Chenin Blanc called Jijiji (from Argentina) that was delicious. I particularly liked the llama tartare that reminded me of poke.
Just made #19 on the 2017 Pellegrino list for all of Latin America, most deservedly so. I was there again about a month ago, after an interior remodel, and am looking forward to a return in January.
We’re going to be in Buenos Aires for a few days after Christmas. I went to their site and asked to translate. I can read a good bit of Spanish but it helps to translate. Well, it didn’t translate. What are the prices like please? TIA
Don’t quote me exactly, but I recall that the most recent meal, with a modest bottle of wine and tip (10%) came to about US$120/pp. (Inflation is currently rampant - approx. 30% - in Argentina and the currency isn’t devaluing at the rate of inflation). The staff speaks enough ingles to amply explain what you’re eating.
Thanks for that. I’ve been reading more about them and it sounds SO unique Heading to an “escorted” trip including the Chilean fjords, Antarctica cruise and more. In other words, likely subpar food so how wonderful to start with this. Thanks SO much.
If you’re doing any land time in Chile (outside of a fancy resto in the big city), keep it simple. Simple fish and meat preparations, salads, and of course, the empanadas. Seafood quality is high, prep is so so. Centolla is austral king crab - very tasty and very expensive. Locos are a abalone relative (typically served cold with mayo). Don’t pass up a good curanto. If you end up in Chiloe, look for milcao a palo (if you can find it outside of a festival). I cannot help you with anything in Argentina outside of the capital. Although I have a place there, I never venture far.
Now, back to your regularly scheduled El Baqueano programming.
Thanks SO much! We’ve been on the go so much I haven’t really looked at our detailed itinerary. But this is GREAT info. We have a place at Tahoe if you ever want to exchange for BA!!!
We’re going to have two nights in Torres del Paine and one in Puerto Natales. No idea if these are actual ‘places’ but, again, thanks for the food tips. Finally printed our detailed schedule and getting super excited. Food be damned…in some cases/places
Another excellent meal there last week. Some of the courses included:
Mushroom churro
Duck confit
Eggplant
Llama carpaccio
Tomato dish (cold)
Vegetable ball in sauce
Frozen palate cleanser
and a few other plates.
Outstanding service. The price is currently AR$1700, so with a 10% (standard) tip, it comes out to approximately $100 USD before wine. You’d be hard pressed to eat this meal in SF for less than double-plus.
Well, we didn’t make it there last time but are returning right before Christmas and want to check this out. This is at the end of a cruise from Rio to BA and we’re staying over four nights. So more time. I’m thinking about getting an apt. rather than hotel since we’ll be there awhile and I tire of hotels very quickly. Plus enjoy cooking local food.
Heading to an “escorted” trip including the Chilean fjords, Antarctica cruise and more. In other words, likely subpar food so how wonderful to start with this. Thanks SO much.
Seemed to be mostly locals. Started with a complimentary glass of Chandon 
