Exquisite Kappo Cuisine Arrives in L.A. - Welcome to Shibumi [Thoughts + Pics]

Depends what you had and particularly enjoyed before (and with what food you have had with the sake or will in the future).

We stopped by for drinks with a group and ordered a few dishes to snack on. Heritage Pork now comes on a wood plank and is in a pulled pork style, with some potatoes. Underwhelming. Abalone not much flavor. Sea bream continues to have too much plum sauce. Only thing decent was the Holstein steak.

Chef Schlosser was again missing.

Noticeably below par, maybe this is just the trend for this place.

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Thanks for the report back @DTLAeater. Very unfortunate to hear. Also sad that his replacement (sous chef / assistant) while he’s away doesn’t seem to be trained as well in these dishes.

For sake lovers, I came across this sake tasting event in DTLA on Friday. Shibumi apparently providing some bites.

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Bummer, was going to pick this place for a guys dinner next month. Sounds like it might not be the best move.

Update 3:

It had been a while since we last visited Shibumi, and recent reports on FTC seemed to have noted that Chef David Schlosser was away, and the meals weren’t very memorable. We decided to call ahead and ask if Chef Schlosser was back in L.A. and cooking this evening (he was). So off we went…

We made sure to book a seat in front of Chef David, and we noticed a variety of new items on the menu. We chose the Omakase option and left the evening in the chef’s hands.

Fresh Seaweed Shot with Grapes:

This was an fun dish, with Mozoku Seaweed from Shikoku, Japan, in a Housemade Dashi and Grapes. The result was an intriguing, refreshing dish: A bit of well-balanced salinity and tastiness in the delicate Dashi, the Mozoku provided that refreshing base and then a bit of tart and then sweetness from the Grapes.

Chinmi (Rare Taste) - Uni, Aged and Fermented for 1 Month(!) + Spot Prawns, Aged for 2 Weeks in its own Innards:

It seems Chef Schlosser is now listing a new item on the menu simply called “Chinmi” which they translate as “Rare Taste.” In the past, the chef had all sorts of wonderful, interesting pickled, fermented and aged items, and he’d offer them up to customers as a taste of what was to come.

For this visit, we started with the Uni, which Chef Schlosser aged and fermented for 1 month(!). :open_mouth: This definitely had a bit of ocean funk, but it then became surprisingly creamy and mild. The Suehiro Yamahai Junmai Sake (complimentary) that was served with this was phenomenal! Truly a perfect pairing (and the flavors transformed)! :blush:

The next item were Spot Prawns, aged in its own innards for 2 weeks(!). :open_mouth: The Spot Prawns were very soft and perhaps you could say it was “decomposing,” but actually this was even better than the Uni aged for 1 month! This wasn’t as briny, with a really intriguing round, savory, slightly funky taste (but nothing like, say, Durian or Natto (Pure Evil!) :stuck_out_tongue: or Stinky Tofu.

And the Suehiro Yamahai pairing with the Spot Prawns was even better. The Sake really matched each small bite, and made it one of the best bites of the evening! :heart:

(This is the type of odd, unique tastes that I think @BradFord @PorkyBelly @beefnoguy @J_L and all you funk lovers might enjoy.) :wink:

Daishichi - Kimoto Junmai Sake (Fukushima, Japan):

I love the ceramic ware that Shibumi stocks for their dishes and Sake. :slight_smile: It’s rustic and beautiful.

The Daishichi Kimoto Junmai Sake was really unique because the optimal temperature was listed as 60 - 68 degrees F(!), or 110 degrees F(!). So it was served to us at room temperature (not chilled).

It was extremely fragrant and intensely aromatic, but very smooth drinking. It went quite well with the next few dishes. On its own, it was quite complex and more robust than some of the pure dry Sakes we’ve had recently.

Then the beverage manager poured us some of the Daishichi from a chilled bottle, and the flavor was far more muted (tasting completely different!). Fascinating.

Housemade Silken Tofu (Crab, Salmon Caviar, Fresh Wasabi):

Shibumi’s Housemade Tofu is quite smooth and creamy, and the pairing with Crab, Ikura gave it that sweet-salty pop, and the Fresh-Grated Wasabi (from a sharkskin grater) really rounded out this dish. :slight_smile:

Steamed Abalone (Fresh Mochi, Ginger Miso):

This was one of the earlier dishes rotated back on the menu. Perfectly steamed Abalone had a nice, delicate chew, but still tender, which gave it an interesting contrast to the Housemade Mochi which also had a bit of natural chew and springiness, but was softer. The Housemade Ginger Miso was interesting, but perhaps a touch sweet.

Grade A5 Miyazaki Wagyu Beef (Nori, Fresh Wasabi):

Serving their Grade A5 Wagyu Beef (from Miyazaki, Japan) as Sashimi is a much better prep than the grilled version they did last time (which the kitchen overcooked).

Here it was presented with a variety of seasonings / condiments to enjoy as you liked. My favorite was a slice of the A5 Wagyu with their super-crisp Nori (Seaweed), and a touch of the Fresh-Grated Wasabi. :slight_smile:

It was pretty delicious. :blush:

Chilled Japanese Eggplant (Tomato, Nori, Okra, Sansho):

I really liked the combination of the Nori Seaweed Paste, a dash of the Sansho Pepper, and the Heirloom Tomatoes. The Japanese Eggplant was tender, but still had a nice bit of texture to it.

Salmon Trout (Smoked with Wild Cherry Bark):

While listed as “Salmon Trout,” it’s actually Tasmanian Ocean Trout, one of our favorite dishes from our early visits. Perfectly cooked Ocean Trout, it’s moist, flaky, having an almost luscious quality to each bite, with a bit of smokiness (from being smoked over Wild Cherry Bark). :blush:

Akitabare - Shunsetsu - Honjozo Namazake (Akita, Japan):

The Akitabare Shunsetsu was far lighter and more fragile than the previous 2 Sake. And it finished very dry, making it an easy sipper. :slight_smile:

True Kobe Beef - Grade A5 Kobe (Kobe, Japan):

@A5KOBE’s namesake food, :slight_smile: I think when we hear “Kobe Beef” it is sadly completely bastardized these days. You can walk into various Sports Bars and order up a “Kobe Burger” or “Kobe Sliders” (or also “Wagyu Sliders”), but when you look at the price tag (only slightly more than a standard Burger or Slider) and ask the establishment, you find out clearly it’s “American Kobe Beef” or “Australian Wagyu” etc.

It’s not really the same thing (at all).

In fact, it turns out Shibumi is one of only 2 restaurants in Southern California (and one of only 19 restaurants in the entire United States) that is officially recognized by the Kobe Beef Association of Japan as serving real Kobe Beef from Kobe, Japan.

http://www.kobe-niku.jp/shop/?lang=1

We were surprised to see Shibumi offering this up, but we were also excited to try actual Kobe Beef to see how it compared to A5 Wagyu Beef from Japan.

It arrived grilled, which, we weren’t sure was the ideal way to serve it(?), but we trusted the chef here. Taking a bite…

True Kobe Beef is even fattier and has a slightly more round / fuller taste than A5 Wagyu. It’s just as creamy / melt-in-your-mouth as the A5 Wagyu from Miyazaki, Japan we just had a few dishes earlier. It was an excellent taste test. :wink:

The Shiso Flowers were a nice touch but didn’t add much in terms of flavor (just a little aroma). But the Fresh-Grated Wasabi was delicious with True Kobe Beef. :blush:

In the end, was it worth the 200% price tag of Grade A5 Miyazaki Wagyu? We didn’t think so. But it was an experience we wanted to try at least once, until we have some in Kobe, Japan one day. :wink:

Kamameshi - Steamed Iron Pot Rice with Pork Jowl, Pickled Vegetables:

Shibumi has added Kamameshi (Steamed Iron Pot Rice) on the menu, which we were really looking forward to. First, the Steamed Rice itself (steamed to order, which can take over 30 minutes) was plump, fluffy and just had a great mouthfeel. Not overcooked at all.

Unlike many Kamameshi around town, Shibumi’s version is steamed plain, but then served with various accompanying items. We ordered the Pork Jowl and Pickled Vegetables option.

The Pork Jowl was really mouth-wateringly delicious. :slight_smile: Just fatty slivers of porcine flavor, slightly sweetened, but still savory, and it went perfect with the Kamameshi Rice. :heart:

The Pickled Vegetables were OK. Nothing really life-changing, but solid Pickled Veggies, a bit of tartness, some nice snap and crispness to the Cucumbers.

But it’s the Black Sesame and Shiso Leaf Miso, Aged 5 Years(!) :open_mouth: that was a real Rice complement. Chef David quickly mentions that this is from a well-regarded specialist in Kyoto, Japan that makes this, and once he tried it (while cooking in Japan), he knew it was something he had to have for Shibumi as well. This was so good! :blush:

Sprouted “8” Grain Rice (Housemade Miso with Mushroom):

Another new item in the Rice section of the menu, we wanted to try their Sprouted 8 Grain Rice, which looked a little plain at first, but then we realized the Housemade Miso with Mushrooms was in the bottom of the bowl.

Taking a bit of the Sprouted Rice with the Housemade Miso and Mushroom mixture, there was a nice, really crave-worthy flavor with the Mushrooms and Sprouted Rice, which had a nutty quality to it. :slight_smile:

Koji Rice Cream (Cherry, Almond Seed):

I still can’t believe this isn’t really Ice Cream. Chef David makes a chilled Dessert made from Koji (a mold used to ferment Soy Beans for Sake, Soy Sauce, etc.) and Rice. It tastes somewhat like Ice Cream, and the Cherry and Almond Seeds all match up well.

Shibumi continues to be an interesting place: We enjoyed our latest dinner here, but it may not be for everyone. In hindsight and looking over the menus on each of our visits, I think what Shibumi might lack are the down-to-earth, super-crave-worthy dishes, stuff like Buta no Kakuni (Stewed Pork Belly), or Nikujaga (Stewed Beef / Pork and Potatoes in Mirin & Soy), or a great Kara-age (Japanese Fried Chicken), etc.

But there are some truly phenomenal, unique tastes we’ve never had before (Uni, Aged and Fermented for 1 Month, or the Spot Prawns, Aged in its own Innards for 2 Weeks). The Black Sesame & Shiso Leaf Miso, Aged 5 Years is truly fantastic with the Kamameshi Rice. And the Tasmanian Ocean Trout, moist, perfectly cooked is always a treat.

Being able to try Grade A5 Wagyu Beef from Miyazaki, Japan vs. True A5 Kobe Beef from Kobe, Japan is another interesting aspect.

There are dishes on the menu that have fallen a bit flat (or just wasn’t interesting), but in the end, we’re glad to have the option to explore some unique, different and delicious tastes from time-to-time, just make sure you can sit in front of Chef David and ask and chat about what goes into each of the dishes (it makes it a far more interesting experience).

Shibumi
815 S. Hill Street
Los Angeles, CA 90014
Tel: (213) 265-7923

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Thanks for the report. Sounds like you had what some might think (and conclude to be) the best experience, nibbles with sake at the bar, and not so much the main courses kind of fare. Very respectable that he’s doing his own pickling, chimi and shuto.

Chinmi of course is the perfect pairing with a traditional full bodied and balanced with slightly higher acidity kind of sake (e.g. Yamahai Junmai). The Suehiro Densho while being a Yamahai Junmai is actually a lot lighter, smoother, far less dry and bold, and far less acidic than some of the other Yamahai sake out there (and actually not that funky in comparison), so this might fit your tastes more so than the profiles I prefer.

For the super hard core sake purists, these (and certain other food) are consumed to make the sake taste better (and not sake making food taste better).

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Words to live by.

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Thanks @beefnoguy.

Yah we really liked the variety of Chinmi that Chef Schlosser is developing (each time something unique and different).

Thanks for the notes on the Yamahai Junmai. What other Yamahai Sake would you recommend?

You can try

Shichida Yamahai Junmai
Yuki No Bosha Yamahai Junmai - great even with western/fusion cuisine
Tedorigawa Yamahai Daiginjo (mentioned during one of your early visits, scroll all the way up this thread), very, very good
Tedorigawa Yamahai Junmai (you had this already at Shibumi) - cleaner and more well balanced but a bit too light for my liking
Cowboy Yamahai Junmai Ginjo Genshu (Kinjiro carries this, as does that new beef bowl place)
Kikuhime Yamahai Junmai (you had this already at Tsubaki)

and for something hardcore and affordable and funky Tengumai Yamahai Junmai (light amberish color) which is a style of Ishikawa prefecture sake. You can also try Yuho Kimoto Junmai (Kimoto process is somewhat similar to Yamahai, except with Kimoto the starter yeast creation process is more time consuming). Definitely need stronger flavored food with these and they are more acidic than regular sake.

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Hi @beefnoguy,

Thanks for these Yamahai recs! :slight_smile: That’s right! Tedorigawa makes a Yamahai Daiginjo that you told me about. I’m really interested in trying this (we already love their Kinka). :slight_smile:

I’ll have to keep my eyes open for the Tengumai… I think I’ve seen this locally before, I’m trying to remember where…

Chef is on Iron Chef right now against Symon

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Hilarious! :sweat_smile:

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Finally made it to Shibumi.

Based on the recommendation of @Chowseeker1999 , I knew a must order was the salmon trout smoked in cherry bark with fried salmon skin on top. Loved it! One of the best dishes I have had anywhere in the last few years. Still thinking about the dish the next day.

The rice was also excellent, as were some of the seaweed accompaniments. The rest of the meal was less memorable. We ordered the Chino Vegetables, rice miso dip (the menu stating that “Chino Farm may be the best farm in California”). It was fine and the dip tasty, but I really do not get this restaurant trend of serving plates of crudités as a course. Perhaps my palate is not sophisticated enough, but to me the real magic of vegetables is when they are cooked and the Chino Farm crudités didn’t taste that much better to me than the crudités you can pick up pre-sliced at Whole Foods or Trader Joe’s. Sure I probably could have picked out the Chino Farm crudités in a blind taste test from Whole Foods crudités, but I can’t say I enjoyed them immeasurably more. As I said, perhaps my palate isn’t sophisticated enough or I’m just not into crudités. (I get very cranky when I go to parties and the host’s idea of entertaining is putting out a plate of crudités with dip and passing that off as hors d’oeuvres).

I wasn’t wowed by the octopus sashimi and I swear we ordered sardines, but the next day I have no memory of it – either they forgot to bring it or I simply forgot that I ate it. The teriyaki chicken was interesting, but I didn’t love it. It is apparently made with a traditional recipe where thin slices are almost candied, so it is a bit like teriyaki jerky.

The restaurant was fairly empty on a weeknight, but not completely empty, and we had no problem getting a last minute reservation.

If I lived downtown rather than on the Westside, I would definitely put Shibumi into a regular rotation just so I could sit at the bar, eat that smoked salmon and drink sake. Would also love to try the onigiri, which I’m sure is excellent.

The wine list is small and not particularly interesting. I would have preferred sake, but my dining companion didn’t want sake, so we ordered a bottle of Muscadet, which was fine and went well with the food.

I loved the decor of the place. Reminded me of those little restaurants you find everywhere in Japan. As I said, if I lived downtown, Shibumi would be in my regular rotation just for that smoked salmon.

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Hi @Omotesando,

Thanks for the report back. We haven’t been able to revisit Shibumi in a while, so it’s good to hear about how things are nowadays.

Yes! Love the Smoked Salmon Trout with Cherry Bark. :slight_smile:

Were they still serving the Holstein Beef, Japanese Sea Bream Sashimi or Abalone with Yuba? Those were definitely worth ordering as well if you see them offered again.

They also had some very interesting Sake to try the next time you’re visiting.

Corkage is relatively reasonable at $25 last I checked, so once I brought a low/no dosage champagne that drank more like a white burgundy. Oh and then Asahi on tap for the heritage pork. :smiley:

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I do not recall seeing the sea bream sashimi on the menu. The Abalone might have been, but I really don’t recall. And I think the beef was on the menu, but I rarely eat red meat so never pay that much attention to that portion of a menu.

I have to say after my meal tonight at Simone, I would go back to Shibumi before I would return to Simone. Still dreaming of that salmon. And I rarely eat rice anymore since going mostly low carb a few years ago, but that rice was definitely worth the carbs . . .

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Funny, I adore no dosage champagne and thought of bringing a bottle, but I store all my wine off premises and I was too lazy go retrieve a bottle before dinner (the downside of having off premises storage).

Still I would be happy to drink sake next time. When in Rome . . .

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Update 4:

It had been awhile since we last stopped by Shibumi, but we were curious how Chef-Owner David Schlosser’s Japanese eatery was coming along these days. The interior space is still about the same as before, dark, moody, and with some soft lighting falling across the gorgeous wood bar, carved out of 400 year-old Cypress.

Chef Schlosser greets us warmly and we see that Shibumi’s menu now has a Beverage Omakase and three options for Food Omakase.

Born - Muroka Nama Genshu - Junmai Daiginjo Sake (Fukui, Japan):

We’ve always enjoyed the Born lineup of Sake, but this is the first time we saw a Special Limited version of Born in a Muroka Nama Genshu! (@beefnoguy @Sgee @BradFord @TheCookie) We were surprised. Taking a sip: It is lively, funky! But not as big of a party in your mouth as the Shichida Spring Muroka Nama Genshu the past 2 years. :slight_smile: Still, this was tasty and a great way to start the evening! :blush:

Chinmi (Rare Delicacies) - Round 1:

Karasumi (Dried Mullet Roe), Aged 1 Month:

A wonderful, super-concentrated oceanic wave hits you with this Chinmi of Karasumi (Dried Mullet Roe) that Chef David ages for 1 month. :blush:

Shrimp and Shrimp Eggs, Aged 2 Months:

And then the 2nd new Chinmi we tried this evening, Shrimp and Shrimp Eggs that have been aged and fermented for 2 months(!). :open_mouth: This was incredible for the funky, bold depth of flavor. This wasn’t like, say, Blue Cheese or anything in that direction, but there was a great, pleasing backnote of flavor that we haven’t had outside of Shibumi. And it was a great pairing with the Born Muroka Nama Genshu Sake! (@beefnoguy) :heart:

The fresh Daikon Radish slices were a great foil to each Chinmi as well, as a nice palate cleanser.

Grilled House-Dried Squid (Fermented Plum Paste, Mayo):

Great drinking food, a chewy, but still tender enough bite of their Grilled House-Dried Squid, but I liked it even more with the Fermented Plum Paste. The Mayo is a more mellow, fun option if you prefer that flavor mix.

Dewazakura - Oka - Ginjo Sake (Yamagata, Japan):

Dewazakura is pretty common around L.A., but it was still a nice Sake to have as the courses changed. The Oka is definitely more refined, cleaner finish with a nice floral component.

Tako Sashimi - Octopus (Hokkaido, Japan) + Umibudo (Sea Grapes):

Pleasingly tender Octopus Sashimi, with some chew, paired with some Umibudo (Sea Grapes). It was fine, a nice change from the courses so far.

Hagatsuo - Striped Bonito - Smoked in Hay (Nagasaki, Japan):

The smokiness was very subtle, but it was still a nice additional layer for the Hagatsuo itself. This held up well with the Dewazakura Oka Ginjo Sake.

Aizu - Chujou - Tokubetsu Honjozou Sake (Fukushima, Japan):

The Aizu Chujou Tokubetsu Honjozou had bigger flavors, not wild like a Muroka Nama Genshu, but it was bolder, with an almost sweetness and not as clean finishing as is my preference, but it was tasty. It also was a nice pairing with our next course, and held up well.

Spinach Marinated in Monk’s Broth, Black Sesame Tofu Sauce:

There was real Kurogoma (Black Sesame) flavors here, definitely something @paranoidgarliclover could appreciate. :slight_smile: The Spinach had a good dashi infusion, was tender and the dish worked as a nice way to enjoy your veggies and pair it with Sake, too. :wink:

Amabuki - Ichigo (Strawberry) - Nama Junmai Ginjo Sake (Saga, Japan):

We’ve had the Amabuki Ichigo (Strawberry) Sake before at Aburiya Raku, but at the time, it didn’t grab us as much as we though it might (I love Strawberries in general). For this 2nd taste, there is a hint of Strawberry, but nothing artificial or “fusion-y” to make it feel like this is some crazy wine cooler or something. :wink: It was fruity, but still held up tasting like a solid, enjoyable Nama Junmai Ginjo Sake.

Unagi Tempura:

This was fine. The Tempura frying skills in the back kitchen were OK, but didn’t approach Inaba’s Tempura while sitting at their Tempura Bar.

Tamagawa - Red Label - Yamahai Muroka Nama Genshu - Junmai Sake (Kyoto, Japan):

This was different from the other Muroka (Unfiltered) Nama Genshu Sake that we’ve had, also another big flavor bomb, but I didn’t think it was as fun or lively as Shichida or Born. But Chef David recommended this to us in preparation for our next course.

Chinmi (Rare Delicacies) - Round 2 - Maguro (Tuna), Aged 5 Months:

This was interesting and a bit fun in a “curious, science experiment” type of way: What happens to Maguro (Tuna) if you age it 5 months? What does it taste like? :slight_smile:

Chef David’s Chinmi selection of things he’s aging and fermenting never ceases to amaze us (this is absolutely one of the strongest points about Shibumi - no one in L.A. is doing stuff like this, to this level). The 5 Month Aged Maguro is very firm. Almost Fish Jerky-like, but with a better flavor profile. It was brushed with another Aged Sauce (I forgot), there was a sweetness, a salty, lightly briny taste. It was a nice pairing with the Sake, but on its own, this was one that didn’t seem as interesting taste-wise as the other Chinmi we’ve had.

Ginseng Miso Soup:

Delicious! This was delicate, a nice Ginseng note that didn’t overpower the Housemade Miso Soup. :slight_smile:

Matassa Cuvée Marguerite 2017 (France):

This was an interesting break, as Chef David felt this Matassa Cuvée Marguerite 2017 would go well with our next course. Apricot, fruity notes, an almost honey-like backnote as well.

Grilled Red Koji Duck (Simmered Daikon):

The Red Koji added a nice, savory, nuanced flavor to the Duck meat. And while this is clearly a Grilled Duck dish, the lack of crispiness on the Duck skin made it feel like it was something missing.

The Simmered Daikon was nice.

Shichi Hon Yari - Junmai Hiyaoroshi Sake (Shiga, Japan):

Chimaki (Beef Shin, Chestnuts, Sweet Potato, Wrapped in Bamboo Husk):

This was pretty good, with the Bamboo Husk being grilled over open flame to yield a light smokiness to the Rice. However the combination of Chestnut and Sweet Potato gave this dish maybe a bit too much of a sweet, nutty facet, that made it taste like a Dessert at times.

Chinmi - Round 3 - Yubeshi (Miso, Walnuts, Yuzu Fruit), Aged 1 Year:

Chef Schlosser makes his own Yubeshi, grinding up Walnuts, Yuzu Fruit and his own Miso, then aging it for over 1 Year(!). This is concentrated, potent earthy, nuttiness, with a savory and sweet angle. Quite tasty and a nice pairing with our final Sake. :slight_smile:

We were about done, but the bar manager started chatting it up with our friend (who’s a big Whisky fan), and shows off a few bottles, talking about each one.

Ichiro’s Malt - Chichibu - Port Pipe - Japanese Single Malt Whisky:

This was the only one I tried, and it was very smooth and seductive. :slight_smile: A really nice way to slowly sip away the evening.

At this point Shibumi feels like a place to enjoy some of Chef David Schlosser’s rare Chinmi creations, these little bites of aged or fermented delicacies, that are a great pairing with certain types of Sake. Shibumi also makes it a point to bring in a bunch of Seasonal Sake (a few years ago they were one of the few L.A. restaurants to get in the Shichida Spring Limited Edition Muroka Nama Genshu).

Shibumi is still one of the very few restaurants in the U.S. to serve true Kobe Beef (from Kobe, Japan), but we’ve found when trying it side-by-side with A5 Wagyu Beef (from Miyazaki, Japan) that he also carries, that the A5 Wagyu was close enough and only half the price. There are some other standouts that appear from time-to-time, but also some dishes that fall into the simply “OK / good, not great” category as well.

But the key is to get a seat in front of Chef Schlosser, start a conversation and ask the Chef questions and listen to some fascinating stories of how he prepares certain dishes, or him talk about his training and time in Japan.

Shibumi
815 S. Hill Street
Los Angeles, CA 90014
Tel: (213) 265-7923

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Thanks for the update, he certainly has some interesting aged goodies. Do you feel its more of a drinking and snacking bar?

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