Exquisite Kappo Cuisine Arrives in L.A. - Welcome to Shibumi [Thoughts + Pics]

@Starchtrade very well called out! And thank you for pointing out some mistakes I made, and also for some of the clarifications, as I didn’t realize the misinterpretations. My mistake was not proof reading it before sending, as the typing was done entirely in haste. But you make some very good points.

From reading your posts, you obviously know far far more than you allude to and your contributions and insights are invaluable (especially from the Nihonjin perspective)

From the iwaikotobuki.com link you shared, and from google translate of the specs/notes from it:

Producing area Saga prefecture · brewing source Tianyama Shuzo Co., Ltd.
“Limited liquor” which will be released once a year (only in winter)
Fragrance is moderate, fruity of berry type.
From the taste that makes you feel soft micro carbonic acid that was puffed up
Sweet and sour juicy umami spread all over mouth with elegant and detailed bubbles.
Bitter taste and astringent taste of the overflowing taste spreading throughout the mouth,
And it gathers taste firmly with spicy, and flows throat gently.

Sweet and sour juicy berry system.
As I thought, I would like to match with a refreshing slice of raw fish.
甘酸っぱくジューシーベリー系。
やはりここは白身の刺身 でサッパリと合わしたい。 (is the person writing the tasting notes alluding to that this sake may go well with shiromi/white fish sashimi or he wants to try it with such?)

Alcohol degree 16 ° · Sake in Japan +1.2 · Acidity 1.3
Used US Yamada Nishiki (Koji) Flower of Saga (hang) · Rice polishing commission 55%

This is very useful as it gives me an idea of what to expect.

My recommendation for this particular Shichida Muroka Nama Genshu and what to eat with came from two reliable people in the Japanese F&B industry where I am located (one is a chef, the other works in a known izakaya and handles the nihonshu selection, attends a lot of industry sake related events and is far more knowledgeable about sake than I can imagine).

So to be more specific and targeted, I’ll just say this will work with sushi + tsumami, but the flavors of the food would need to be stronger, so maybe a better choice at Sushi Ginza Onodera (to go with the sake lees vinegared rice, aged bluefin). I would think it would work great at Shunji, especially with the kappo style small plates he serves (many of which are built for enjoying with sake anyway).

And to be fair, every bottle of muroka nama genshu is different. The blue bottle “Born” Muroka Nama Genshu Junmai Daiginjo (mentioned before on the FTC board, e.g. that I thought it would be good to have at Aburiya Raku) 梵純米大吟醸無濾過生原酒 I’ve had before and do not think it will work with sushi/sashimi (unfortunately one “omakase” restaurant in San Francisco disagrees with me). For one thing that bottle’s alcohol content is around 18%, versus 16% for the Shichida. And it’s also around 16% for the Kirinzin Shiboritate Nama Genshu Junmai Ginjo ぽたりぽたりきりんざん 純米吟醸原酒生, as well as Kakeya Junmai Muroka Nama Genshu (as well as their Junmai Daiginjo version Noto) which I’ve had with sushi/tsumami before with interesting results, overall positive. The Born does work brilliantly with heavier flavored yakitori (tare) and soy sauce braised fish (nitsuke) which I’ve had with last year. But it has so much more viscosity and mouthfeel that it would clash with sushi/sashimi.

This is why sake is so interesting, brewers and toji’s are coming up with interesting whacky combinations that don’t conform to the mold even if you only read a label pretty quickly and look at a few numbers. This also leads to very interesting food pairings, and sometimes it’s just about experimenting with what works (and finding out what doesn’t as well in the process). For me it was initially counter intuitive to serve a nigori and a nama warmed, but I was exposed to it at a few places in Tokyo. There a number of folks also willing to go against the grain of the brewer’s recommendations (ie drink it now, at this temperature) and experiment, with very interesting results. Quite a few of these are izakaya owners too.

Have you ever had Nabeshima sake in Japan? It has a very unusual profile (and quite excellent I might add), and is also from Saga prefecture, so maybe a bit lighter tasting than the Shichida Muroka Nama Genshu Junmai Ginjo, although a similar concept. I wish Nabeshima were exported!

Also the JP cult favorite Aramasa (Akita Prefecture) sake, the 6S/6R/6X for example are all nama genshu sake but brewed with lower alcohol content (they cap at around 15%). Their color themed bottles are Kimoto Junmai polished to 50 to 60 %, and even those have a character similar to what your linked vendor’s tasting notes.

“From the taste that makes you feel soft micro carbonic acid that was puffed up
Sweet and sour juicy umami spread all over mouth with elegant and detailed bubbles.”

So this will have the signature yogurt drink like profile (or hints of), mixed in with something effervescent (but probably without the bubbles) that could remind one of drinking those Japanese marble sodas (but without the gas).

As far as “fresh sake” is concerned, technically I do not disagree with you.
However we are in the United States. The only way to taste fresh sake is if you visit say, Sequoia Sake brewery in San Francisco and get a taste right off their vat. Maybe it should be termed, “the closest we can get to the least amount of processing and retaining some sort of freshness” in that regard.

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Sorry, I was talking about the Denshin, and realized you were probably referring to the Junmai Ginjo? If so, no idea. The Denshin did go well with our cod, so probably would be fine with raw fish.

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Indeed, you are correct. Looks like we need to try it!

For others (because @beefnoguy already knows this): This sake is interesting because most sakes are brewed to around 20-22% ABV then diluted with water down to around 16%. However, the brewer here only brewed the sake until it reached 16%, and does not add any water. The result is a very lively, flavor-forward effervescent sake that hits sweet-sour, bitter/astringent, and umami all in one mouthful.

Allow me to help Google-sensei with translation:

「ぷちぷちしゅわしゅわとした柔らかな微炭酸を感じさせる」

= light/soft effervescence that dances and almost tingles on the tongue.

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Very interesting, need to hunt this down.

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The sake drift on this thread has been awesome to follow. Thanks all !

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and done with a very civilised and polite tone, which i appreciate very much.

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A few more comments.

Most sake we can buy in the US that are not nama or genshu are double pasteurized, and have alcohol content of 16% on average. Most genshu (non nama) can hit upwards of 18%, with a few nearing the 19% mark (e.g. Cowboy Yamahai Junmai Ginjo Genshu, it’s what Jun-san of Kinjiro normally recommends due to its excellent profile to go with izakaya food amongst other things, and really high QPR). So to have an unfiltered and undiluted sake brewed to 16% is quite remarkable.

“そして辛みで味わいをしっかりとまとめ、喉元をじんわりと流していく。” - this is probably a stretch, but my guess from that website’s notes is that there is possibly some spice notes along the way (辛 kara) before it glides down the throat (maybe implying a really nice finish?) Of course this is just that one person’s opinion :slight_smile: Only one way to really find out…

“The result is a very lively, flavor-forward effervescent sake that hits sweet-sour, bitter/astringent, and umami all in one mouthful.” - thanks for a much improved translation! The second half of the description almost sounds like what I would want in a piece of kohada nigiri (minus the effervescence and too much bitterness/astringency)… I’m very looking forward to trying this Shichida Nama Junmai Ginjo Genshu!

Lastly, the sake is made with a type of rice (kake mai) native to Saga prefecture, Saganohana. It can be fun and enjoyable to try a regional sake (jizake) that is not brewed with the more widely used / common rice varietals (e.g. Yamadanishiki, even though it is known as the king of sake rice).

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@beefnoguy I recommend an FTC sake meetup. Thoughts? Venue?

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Thanks for the notes @beefnoguy. :slight_smile:
Have you seen the Shichida at any places other than Shibumi?

The distributor of Shichida sake for North America is JFC International (through the website sakeexpert.com), interestingly the HQ is in San Francisco. Unfortunately there’s no indication where you might find Shichida sake in LA, though I’ve spotted the entire non nama lineup at Mitsuwa in Northern California (San Jose) including the higher end Junmai Daiginjo that is supposed to be pretty good. However that does not mean the SoCal branches of Mitsuwa will carry Shichida since distribution can vary by region, best to call (or drop by if you are in the area). Speaking of which there is another Saga prefecture sake Azumaichi 東一 that is exported (and has great reputation), that seems to be only available in the East Coast through a different North American distributor strangely, though just the Junmai and Junmai Ginjo.

A quick search shows the non nama versions of Shichida can be found at Mel & Rose shop in LA for purchase. Maybe try the Junmai Ginjo (non nama) first as a baseline. Otherwise your best bet is to find out which establishments use JFC / sakeexpert to source their sake (restaurant or shop) and go from there. Worst case, just pick and choose what to eat with at Shibumi and buy a bottle from them. Though I would advise not waiting too long since there aren’t that many bottles of the seasonal release nama out there.

FTC Sake meetup sounds fun! Too bad I’m not in LA…

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Is there some sort of sake primer for those of us who find this conversation very interesting but lack the knowledge to understand most of it (a genuine question)?

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@beefnoguy Where are you located?

@paranoidgarliclover

Sake primers

  1. Watch The Birth of Sake on Netflix

  2. John Gauntner’s Blog: http://sake-world.com/

  • Guantner is regarded as the best English language resource for sake information
  1. If you are futher interested, an introductory course will run you $475 (unless you have purchasing power at a f&b business): http://www.sakeschoolofamerica.com/
  • Be sure only to attend the class in LA if it is taught by Toshio Ueno.

Your next chance will be on June 22nd: http://www.sakeschoolofamerica.com/course/certified-sake-adviser-course-la-jun-22-2017-japanese/#course-overview

Note: The Sake School of America is closely affiliated with (if not operated by) Mutual Trading Company–a Japanese food & bev importer & distributer. Therefore, an overwhelming majority, if not all, sakes tasted during this course will be Mutual Trading Co products.

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A former neighbor is a premium sake importer/distributor. That ship has sadly sailed (used to get some great stuff from him). He was here in LA for about 4-5 years, giving it a go to see if his efforts would take root - they didn’t achieve the levels he had hoped.

So he moved to NYC. He felt that the premium sake market would be better received there. He might be worth looking him up - Tak Shimomura. He’s originally from Kobe, and would regularly return to Japan to keep current on the sake market.

In addition there are some books your local library may have (or drop by a bookstore to take a look). Some may be a bit dated but it’s a good start

Though I’d say this is my most favorite book at the moment

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You need to find the SAKEMAN!

They rep Shichida quite vigorously.

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Haha yes, seen them before (though not in person) and they travel around! They are just missing a few more accessories to look even cooler like MKR

Not long ago they were at Shunji helping to celebrate their 5th anniversary, of course bringing and promoting Suehiro sake…of which Shunji commissioned Suehiro to do his house sake “Ichigo” (Junmai Ginjo).

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That’s Tak - the Sakeman! And don’t challenge him in judo - he’ll take your ass down before you can say , “junmai ginjo!” Honestly though - he’s a great guy and knows his shit.

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@bulavinaka They are still very much operational. Check out their social media.

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Shit, @beefnoguy, even your favorite books are baller.:wink:

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Social media? I’m still trying to figure out my toaster. :smile:

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