Great recs - looks like you are well covered, def make it to El Hidal.
Only wanted to add re: food tour. Go. GF and I went last Sept. with company called Eat Mexico, mezcal and late night tacos. I believe it is the same CiaBob may have taken. Our guide was Anais and she has a website, Curious Mexican. In short, we were debating whether to do it as it’s not cheap. We were both so happy we did. It was a highlight of the trip (granted got lucky with guide), four of us plus Anais and driver. Stopped at 5 or so places, each unique, street corn cart, quesadilla place, torta, two diff taco spots. Add in some great mezcal/mex craft beer and quite the evening. With tip I believe it was around $105/pp.
I didn’t see when you are leaving but website (EatMex) says tours are postponed until Dec. 1, though I know Anais does private tours. Have a great time!