Update #1 (5/15/19):
Since I arrived at the ROW an hour early, I decided to do a little pre-gaming:
chocolate walnut cookie at
The Manufactory
Very crispy…chocolate-y with hint of nuttiness
clams from somewhere at
Rappahannock
Sandy AF
oysters from somewhere at
Rappahannock
They’re a dollar each since it’s happy hour but they’re flavorless…
Note: Special thanks to Chef Go for providing me description of each course
Summary: Another fun dinner that’s almost flawlessly executed. On a second thought, why can’t other simple cooking be as good as Hayato’s?
Highlight:
- hokkaido scallop and chrysanthemum greens with tosazu jelly
- kobashira and udo tempura
- tai, santa barbara spot prawn, hokkaido uni sashimi, fresh nori
- nodoguro and lotus root
- harrys berries, kinako cream
Welcome sake is sweet and floral
totally forgot what champagne this is
Course #1: hokkaido scallop and chrysanthemum greens with tosazu jelly - Highlight
Excellent balance between sweetness of the slightly charred but rare scallop and acidity in the jelly. The dashi braised greens further echo the dish’s ocean salinity.
Course #2: kobashira and udo tempura - Highlight
I would liken the surf clam abductor muscle’s flavor to a more savory and pleasantly chewy scallop or perhaps even the flavor of a dried scallop. The young udo shoot, on the other hand, reminds me of a tender and mild tasting asparagus. Both tempura are simply shatteringly crispy.
Course #3: kasugodai bo-zushi
The soft and vinegar-y baby red snapper melds very well into the bed of toothsome shari mixed with minty shiso. But I do prefer Chef Go’s aji bo-zushi since the fattier aji coats my mouth with its delectable unctuousness.
Unfortunately, there’s a small scale on my fish.
Course #4: dungeness crab suimono
The feather-light clear dashi pairs well with the inherent sweetness of the dungeness crab meat which is ever so lightly bound together by kanimiso (crab innards).
What are the chances? I ended up with 3 pieces of cartilage mixed into my crab meat.
Course #5: tai, santa barbara spot prawn, hokkaido uni sashimi, fresh nori - Highlight
Excellent. Shoutout to the live spot prawn that has an incredibly snappy texture.
Course #6: katsuo tataki
The early season lean bonito has a hint of smokiness from the charred skin and the use of soy and various aromatics like grated ginger, citrus, and daikon radish really brought out the delicate tuna flavor.
Course #7: nodoguro and lotus root - Highlight
Hayato’s nodoguro’s still one of the best piece of fish I’ve ever had. Its combination of clean oily flavor, soft, flakey flesh, and charred crispy skin is dangerously intoxicating. The side of soy brushed lotus root is grilled over binchotan for over 40 mins to achieve a slightly crisped yet chewy exterior while retaining its inherent snappy texture inside.
Course #8: kisu in fava bean ankake
The expertly fried kisu is quite lean and delicate in flavor so I’m glad it’s paired with a equally light but thickened dashi that’s amped up with a just touch of grassy note from the chopped fava bean.
According to Chef Go, this A5 Omi Wagyu he uses is much beefier in taste than A5 from both Miyazaki or Kagoshima and cost roughly 30% more. The slices in the picture are about $20 each.
Course #9: a5 omi gyu shabu shabu, komatsuna, bamboo, shiitake
The wagyu is incredibly buttery and beefy but the star of the dish is actually the dashi. Bonito flakes in this dashi are steeped at a higher temperature and for much longer so the broth carries an intense flavor that’s able to withstand the wagyu.
Course #10: konoko (sea cucumber ovaries) and sake
This rare delicacy is lightly salted and carries a very unique flavor that I liken to a cross between an intensely briny uni and Chinese salted fish. Texture wise, it reminds me of a slippery sausage casing. Super interesting indeed!
Course #11: sawara yuan yaki rice pot, miso soup, pickles
I ended up with 4 bowls with each one getting progressively bigger. The distinctly aromatic sansho leaves offer bursts of freshness to lighten up the fish and soy meshi. According to Chef Go, he prefers a roughly 1 to 1 fish to rice ratio.
Course #12: harrys berries, kinako cream - Highlight
Bar none the best strawberries I’ve ever had. They’re superbly tender with just enough acidity to balance its intense sweetness. The kinako (soybean flour) cream, while not as light as pastry cream, has a touch of toasty flavor that made its pairing with the strawberries really unique and fun.
Extras…all ended up in my belly
Banana Cream Tart from
The Manufactory
Post-Hayato bang at home. It’s glorious.
