I stopped in here the other night finally, no $26 Mai Tai, because you can buy the rum for like $50/bottle. It’s a little hard to figure out why they need to price it at $26 given that. They make it sound like some impossible-to-get rum or something, but whatever.
I would happily go here to drink often if they were open later.
Started with a Seascape Swizzle, which was great. Refreshing, well-balanced ingredients that allowed the smokiness of the mezcal to shine. Eminently sippable, and just about what you would like to start your night.
First dish out was a Tomato salad composed with shredded gouda, and chicories, crunchy buckwheat, corn, mushroom, and Calabrian chilis. It was pleasant enough. The mild heat from the chilis, a bit of savor from the corn, and a subtle smoke and funk from the gouda paired against the juicy tomatoes quite well. Not, perhaps, mind-blowing, but an enjoyable dish without any apparent flaws. The shredded chicories added an interesting texture along with the crunch of the buckwheat; if anything, this was one of the more intellectual tomato salads I’ve had, but it came off well.
I am a huge fan of beet cocktails, and a Crimson Ghost fit that craving. Pungent and earthy from the beet infused vodka, yet refreshing from the lime and hibiscus-plum wine syrup mixed in. Simple. Elemental. Lovely.
Then the Sturgeon came out. This was certainly the best dish of the night, and something I still find myself craving. Large chunks of toothsome sturgeon where hidden beneath a treasure trove of chicken skin and fresh sea grass with verjus foam layered over it and indelibly creamy heirloom rice porridge beneath. This dish recalled the famous chicken skin and crab porridge at Taco Maria, but perhaps topped it. Just exquisite flavors here in every element: savory, crispy chicken skin, tart, saline sea grass, luscious porridge that retained just enough texture to satisfy Goldilocks, and probably the best sturgeon I’ve ever had as it was delicate, even a bit fatty, yet simultaneously hefty in the way a good ribeye is. What a magnificent dish.
I expected Cornish Game Hen to be similarly spectacular, but I hadn’t noticed they switched to a fried preparation of the dish. It was not bad, but I think Howlin’ Rays has forever ruined me by making my standards for fried fowl exorbitantly high. Still, it was certainly a properly fried game hen, juicy, with exceptionally crunchy batter melding into the skin. The batter had some cacao in it, which imparted a slight sweetness and depth to it that was unusual, but not so apparent that one would call this “chocolate fried chicken” or anything. The leek-scapes and peanuts stewed until soft were really nice, adding a vegetal, nutty component along with an umami-rich black vinegar sauce that tied the dish together nicely. All-in-all, it managed to be interesting, well-balanced, and quite clean-tasting for a fried chicken dish, although it didn’t cause me the same feelings of euphoria as a Howlin’ Rays sandwich (which I ate the next day).
I had to try the Psychic Reader because the idea of a cocktail based entirley off of bitters sounded too intriguing to pass up. It was a superbly enjoyable experience in terms of creamy texture with mango and coconut hitting the palate first, with the huge dose of bitters calmly rolling in on the aftertaste. Low alcohol, and incredbily easy to drink while being quite fascinating.
We had been forced to sit at the bar, which turned out to be a good thing as they only serve their basic Pie at the bar. They make very good basic pies here for all of the other avant-garde trappings of the place. Nectarine Plum with a proper amount of thick honey creme fraiche displayed tart fruit, a buttery crust striking a just right balance between soft and crunchy, and cool, delightful cream ; not an overly sweet experience, very classic and enjoyable, though it may not be up to the obscene standards of Nicole Rucker’s masterpieces, the glorious whipped creme makes up for it at least in part.
,A bit of Bubblegum Ice Cream with lychee was much more reserved in flavor than I had expected. It was also more of a soft serve than ice cream. Not bad with the lychee, but did not make me want to eat it again. It leaned extremely intellectual where the pie leaned classic comfort. Worth trying for those who never have though.
Overall, I can easily see myself returning. The cocktails alone are some of the most interesting, and best made in the city. The service, at least at the bar, is fantastic, warm and friendly. The food seems to lean interestingly intellectual, sometimes a bit too much, but at the same time there are glimpses of brilliance. It has a very “San Francisco restaurant” vibe to it (for those that hate that). At the same time, I am not sure I left feeling blown away by my meal as a whole, but I can’t say it was disappointing in any way either really.
For food this ran about $55/person, but I guess neither of us were feeling super hungry or are just not huge eaters as we actually took food home. I saw some comparisons to Republique before, but it seems to run about half of what I typically spend at Republique, and it is also nothing like Republique. Actually, I can’t really think of a good comparison place, which is why I see myself returning to find some more treasure at Here’s Looking At You.