In Search of Lunchtime Pasta, from Disappointing to Excellent - Knead & Co., Pasta Sisters, Cento Pasta Bar, Bulgarini, Factory Kitchen and Drago Centro

I’m sure they are.

Similarly used as garum was in ancient times (anchovy is what adds that flavor). But for something regionally specific as a Ragu Alla Bolognese not so.

If you are just looking for an “authentic” recipe of ragu bolognese both ingredients are normally not included but especially with such a dish as ragu bolognese which can easily cooked at home to often at a better quality than a restaurant I think improved/changed versions in restaurants are really more interesting (and especially fish sauce in ragu bolognese is nothing new and really improves the flavor of the ragu)

Awesome report and thanks for doing the legwork! Great pics as well!

I kind of wish Papilles would incorporate one pasta dish to their dinner menu.

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Is evryone gonna go to the Cento pasta tasting?

https://www.instagram.com/p/BDoF0sipIxZ/?taken-by=centopastabar

when i don;t have worcestershire sauce, i just use a mix of fish sauce, red wine vinegar and salt.

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nice report

That beetroot & goat cheese pasta looks like absolute heaven.

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Thank you for the important work you’re doing here.

Update 2:

I thought I was done with pasta for a while, but then my friend had to mention that I forgot one of L.A.'s beloved Italian restaurants, so off we went… :stuck_out_tongue:

Angelini Osteria

For some odd reason, I’d never been to Angelini before. Hearing about how crowded it is, how compact the tables are, etc., I just never bothered to go. Walking in for lunch, we noticed valet parking in full effect, with a Ferrari pulled up front.

The hostess up front was something out of a comedy or something: She asked if we had reservations, to which I say “No,” only to have her stare us up and down (we were dressed business casual, but not in Dolce & Gabbana and full business attire like the rest of the clientele as we were being seated). She then proceeded to seat us at the back bar area, while 70% of the restaurant (and plenty of tables near the windows / main dining area) were empty. (They remained empty the entire time we ate there.) Oh well. :unamused:

Thankfully, the rest of the wait staff and busboys were friendly and service was fine for the rest of the meal.

They started us off with a complementary Freekeh Wheat Salad and Bread Service:

The Freekeh was soft and pillowy, and overall it was a nice, light, nutty salad to start things off.

Then a 2nd complementary starter, Octopus Salad:

Really tender strips of Octopus in a light vinaigrette. Bright Tomatoes and Celery Leaves.

Linguine allo Scoglio (Lobster, Mussels, Clams, Shrimp, Garlic, Light Spicy Tomato Sauce):

Their Handmade Linguine was a perfect al dente. Nice chew, but tender, but the star was definitely the seafood: Perfectly poached Lobster (tender, meaty, tasting very fresh), and some of the freshest Mussels I’ve had this year. Their Clams were also perfectly cooked, still tender, briny in a good way.

Thinking about the sourcing, this is what separates Angelini from Cento Pasta Bar (which I enjoyed many of their offerings), but Cento’s clams were clearly not as fresh.

The only fail with this pasta was the Shrimp: They were overcooked and rubbery. Disappointing. :frowning:

But overall it was an excellent Seafood Pasta dish. It was also $30 + tax and tip, so it’s by far the most expensive lunchtime pasta we had on this journey. Angelini also offers a $45 Spaghetti with Black Truffles, but that started feeling like too much, LOL.

Tagliatelle with Duck Ragout:

Now this is how you make a great Duck Pasta! :slight_smile: Angelini’s housemade Tagliatelle is spot on. It has great bite and a suppleness, but it’s the earthy, hand-torn chunks of Duck meat that really shine! (You can actually taste the Duck and delicious Ragout that enhances it, unlike Knead’s version.) It’s delicious! :slight_smile:

But it’s also $26 + tax and tip, so you’re paying a premium for this.

Overall, Angelini Osteria’s pastas seem to be pretty stellar, but the price point (and ridiculous hostess) might dissuade some from stopping by for lunch.

Angelini Osteria
7313 Beverly Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA, 90036
Tel: (323)297-0070

Jon & Vinny’s

While I love Chef Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo’s Animal restaurant, I wasn’t much of a fan of their new ode to East Coast Red Sauce Italian eateries in Jon & Vinny’s (right across the street). It felt like a very overpriced, average restaurant, but since we were in the area, why not? :wink:

Kabocha Squash Agnolotti, Ricotta, Hazelnut, Truffle, Sage:

All of their pastas are made in-house, and their Agnolotti were fine. They were thin, but still had enough heft to give off a nice mouthfeel. However, the issue was just how shockingly oily the dish was! It was swimming in oil and for something that sounded so delicate and light, it was a turnoff. :frowning:

The Kabocha Squash gave the dish a very sweet aspect, the “Truffle” was non-existent, most likely just in the presence of Truffle Oil, which tasted more like a greasy vegetable oil than anything special.

This was a disappointment just like their Bucatini Cacio e Pepe which I had last time.

Linguini & Clams (Garlic, Crushed Chili, White Wine):

Despite those previous disappointments, I have to give credit where credit is due: Their Handmade Linguini & Clams was DELICIOUS! :slight_smile: The Linguini was perfect al dente and was one of the most enjoyable pastas we had on this journey. The Clams were shucked and super fresh (much better than Cento’s sourcing).

The only knock was a small bit of sand in one of the bites of the pasta, but otherwise, this was very good.

But like Angelini, Jon & Vinny’s isn’t cheap: They institute an automatic 18% Surcharge (Tip / Healthcare etc.), and the Pastas were about $22, so overall, it came out to be about $29 per Pasta dish. Add in a Salad or Drinks and Lunch at Jon & Vinny’s isn’t that affordable.

In the end both Angelini Osteria and Jon & Vinny’s offer potential places to grab lunch when you’re in midtown L.A., but they’re also the most expensive lunchtime options compared to all of the other places we tried on this journey.

Jon & Vinny’s
412 N. Fairfax Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90036
Tel: (323) 334-3369

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Have you ever had the fusili vodka at Jon & Vinny’s?

I’m pretty sure its not available at lunch, but the Lasagna Verde at Angelini Osteria is one of the best pasta dishes around.

Stick to the ribs kind of good.

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Hi @Aesthete,

No. The first time we went, I tried their Bucatini Cacio e Pepe (not very good), and one of their Pizzas to see how it compared with my favs. Then this visit with the 2 pastas above.

Do you recommend their Fusili? Thanks.

Thanks @ipsedixit. :slight_smile: Made a note to try it the next time I’m back.

Yeah. I thought it was awesome. Maybe I was just won over because it’s such a classic dish from my childhood? But I thought it was pretty great regardless. I’d go eat it more often if J&V’s was open until 11 at night probably haha

I don’t think I can eat cacio e pepe anymore after eating it at Bucato so many times…

It is unfortunate that the other pastas aren’t as great at J&V’s though.

Thanks @Aesthete. Good to know. If I find myself back at Jon & Vinny’s (doubtful), I’ll order it next time.

Agree with you on the Cacio e Pepe. I hope Chef Funke’s new eatery brings back his amazing pastas.

I am going to lose my mind if Felix doesn’t have the same pasta standards as Bucato… even though I’ve been very happy eating at Bestia and Republique, I still long for the tremendous perfection of Bucato…sigh

You’re really good. We will use this as our pasta guide!

I was the same as you about ANGELINI OSTERIA and didn’t go until recently. When it first opened I was young and broke. Later there were so many other places to try. I ended up mad at myself for not going sooner. I agree @ipsedixi about the Lasagna Verde. With the exception of a little Italian place formerly in The Orlando Hotel AO the best I’ve had.

I like the idea of the mix/match at PASTA SISTERS. My hubby loves bolognese. But he’s old-school and wants his on spaghetti. They’re in our zip code, so that’s a great tip for us. We’ll be going soon!

Yes! The Handkerchief Pasta at FACTORY KITCHEN is a must. So is the Porchetta! It’s even better than Angelini Osteria.

I read mixed reviews about JON &VINNY’S. We had a really good meal and a great time. I love that style of Bolognese, with the more savory beef broth flavor. The wine shop in back is a delight. Plus that spot is nostalgic. I’ve lived in that 'hood for many years and had many a pizza from Damiano’s back in the day. I was glad another pizza place opened there. But mostly I’m kind of partial to Jon & Vinny. I’ve been watching them since they were doing backyard BBQ’s for rich people. ANIMAL is my favorite restaurant and I’m happy for their success. They always get the extra star from me.

Happy Eating!

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…Oh and thanks for the BULGARINI GELATO shout out. My sister has lived in Altadena for years, but there’s no place to eat. I always make her come down to Old Town.

Thanks @TheCookie. First ipse and now you recommend this Lasagna Verde at Angelini. I regret not trying it (but we didn’t have enough people with us that day LOL). I’ll try it next time. :slight_smile:

I have not tried the Bolognese at J&V’s, so I’ll give it a try. Like you, I really like Chef Shook and Dotolo with Animal. I just haven’t been as smitten with J&V’s yet, but I’ll stop by again.

And yes, let me know what you think of Bulgarini. :slight_smile:

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@Chowseeker1999 - I definitely stand by Angelini’s Lasagna. But J&V’s Bolognese may be a personal preference. I loved it. But I’d hate to interrupt your food journeys to go back and not enjoy it. Especially when you have so many other restaurants to discover for us… hehehe.

I’ve already told my sister about Bulgarini and will report back.

Thanks!