Interesting LA Weekly Article On White Chefs Cooking Ethnic Foods

Please delete my comments . Thank you . No talking about religion or politics on food websites . Same as in a bar . No offence .

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Yeah, pretty much. :wink:

But this gets to something else. Food you prepare at home is different than food you order at a restaurant; presumably one of those differences is b/c of the obvious exchange of $. I can understand why Eddie’s parents said what they did since my parents have the same attitude.

The thing is, for those of us of a different generation, born and raised in American, does the same thing apply (needing to charge less to “compensate” for our “foreign-ness”)? And, if it doesn’t or shouldn’t, then why are “we” blaming the white chef for charging as much as the market will tolerate for ethnic food (to get back to the LA Weekly article)?

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I don’t think the LA Weekly article addresses pricing. That doesn’t mean it’s not fair game here, but I think the article was primarily concerned with who is cooking/selling/representing a particular type of food.

yes, but if it is primarily street food, then by definition it’s going to be lowest common denominator in terms of ingredients - and price; i would expect the concept of gourmet street food (priced accordingly) to be a non sequitur to the local ethnic demographic. if i can afford kobe beef, i’m sure as (insert long string of expletives here) NOT making tacos (or burgers for that matter) with it.

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Ah. Got it.

And seriously. The “Kobe” hot dog. Someone please explain why anyone would make an emulsified sausage out of Kobe beef.

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the idea of grinding up a piece of perfectly marbled beef would confound me if i’d never witnessed other types of conspicuous consumption.

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Are you preparing Haiga rice these days or have you gone full brown?

I find the haiga rice pretty okay!

perhaps “gentrified” would be the kindest way to put it.

a $5 taco made with prime rib better be good. but i’d rather have 3 tacos made with slowly cooked & marinated cheek meat. with a little bit of onion and fresh salsa on a freshly made tortilla for the same price sitting in my car parked in a non-gentrified neighborhood. but that’s me.

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Kind of curious, are you a white person that lives in a neighborhood loke WeHo?

[quote=“frommtron, post:45, topic:4931”]
most asian vegetables are actually grown following organic practices. They just aren’t certified. They are also usually incredibly fresh. Most of the greens that I buy at 99 ranch are super fresh.
[/quote]True. Same is true of some farmers markets’ vendors. It’s not easy to get certified. Some small, pesticide-free farms don’t bother. Agree about 99 Ranch and am lucky to live close to one.

[quote=“frommtron, post:45, topic:4931”]
As a Vietnamese person, that might be hard to deal with. Why is it that it took a white dude who is a privileged member of the dominant culture to bring legitimacy to this food?
[/quote]You answered your own why. Because they are privileged members of a dominant culture. However, by raising the profile of the food (pho) you can argue that everyone gets to comes up. Carpe diem.

[quote=“frommtron, post:45, topic:4931”]

Good stuff about Mexican & Bayliss. I have absolutely no doubt that Rick Bayless is where he is because he’s a white, Mexican food expert. He’s probably aware of it as much or more than we are. I don’t say expert lightly though. He’s respectful and serious about showing the indigenous side of the cooking, and most of his recipes are tediously from scratch.

Again, maybe his profile has enabled Mexican chefs and cooking to be taken more serious. I don’t want to get all heavy. But there might not have been an Underground Railroad without the help of quakers. There goes that rub again.

Happy cultural, ethnic, politically correct food eating!

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I hear ya’

Nah. He actually believes being white has disadvantaged him in his cooking career. "A few minutes later, Pashman asks Bayless, “Do you think that at times in your career it has been to your advantage to be white?”

“I certainly have never thought about that,” Bayless says. (The luxury of being able to never think about race is pretty much the essence of white privilege in America.) He goes on to say that he “put everything together from nothing, basically, just like any other entrepreneur.”

Bayless not only refuses to acknowledge any sort of privilege, he goes so far as to say that he is actually the victim of the evil, mythical (dun-dun-dunhhhhhhh!) reverse racism.

“I know that there have been a number of people out there that criticized me only—only!—because of my race,” says Bayless. “Because I’m white, I can’t do anything with Mexican food. But we have to stop and say, ‘Oh wait, is that plain racism then?’”

I wasn’t able to download the podcast. A partial transcript and your link (with a few quotes) was my info basis. I try not to base my opinions on editorials.

It was disappointing to read the quotes from Rick Bayless. Maybe his ‘sensitivity’ doesn’t extend to self-awareness. I understand his defensiveness. But he should not have used the word ‘racism’ to defend it. It’s tempting, but don’t.

I’m not surprised Rick Bayless denied any controversy. Sports news is an interest of mine. His older brother, sportscaster Skip Bayless, says their childhood was rough with alcoholic parents. He says Rick doesn’t acknowledge any of it.

Rick Bayless’s opinions are based on his own struggles and reality, like most of us. And as @paranoidgarliclover wrote, (paraphrasing) some of the shit comes from our own tribe.

A quote from the piece.
“Bayless is widely admired because he’s done so much work to study Mexican food and culture. He speaks Spanish fluently. He spent five years living in Mexico, visiting every state in the country. And he returns to Mexico every year with his restaurant staff for research and training.” I think that’s pretty great. What else do you want?

As far as the ‘bi bum bundt’ guy goes. I have no idea who he is, and won’t put him in league with Rick Bayless. Radio (podcast) people are required to fill silence. They say ridiculous things. His comment was really dumb. I understand the concept of freedom from cultural confines, but don’t say ‘better’ dude!!! It’s not fucking better.

If I don’t respond right away, don’t think I’m ignoring replies. I just want to get back to talking about food.

Happy eating!

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I think that a chef of any ethnicity should be able to cook whatever food he or she wants. “Sensitively” approaching the cuisine? The question is whether their food is good or not. And that largely depends on how well a chef can distill the distinctive characteristics of a specific dish or cuisine and express them in his or her food - whether that’s putting his or her own spin on it while staying true to the original, or recreating it “authentically” (that is to say in broad terms, to make it indistinguishable from good food cooked by a native chef).

I don’t believe that there’s one definitive approach, but it depends on each cuisine. E.g. if a chef is cooking a Chinese banquet, he or she probably wants to pay attention to Chinese customs and beliefs about “temperature,” progression of dishes, textures, types of flavor pairings, good or bad “luck” pairings so to speak, etc. It doesn’t mean that he or she has to follow the Chinese tradition to a T, but the food should demonstrate an understanding of the original characteristics of the dish or cuisine as a whole. So if a white chef makes a peking duck with a balsamic apricot sauce instead of plum sauce, that’s fine. Or ceviche with Japanese fish and mitsuba and sudachi instead of cilantro and lime, that’s fine, too. There’s room for more experimentation, of course, but it’s usually only successful if the new dish expresses the relevant characteristics of the original dish and avoids doing things which are contrary to the cuisine.

E.g. at Manresa, which is a good restaurant, I was a bit surprised to have a dashi soup with blistered shishitos. The shishitos’ char had a bitterness that was reminiscent of an overcooked dashi. Dashi cooked at too high heat becomes bitter, and that is contrary to the aim of a good dashi at the beginning of a meal in Japanese cuisine: clean, pure umami with depth and smooth, complex layers. A bitter dashi is sharp and “short,” for lack of a better term. Here, this pairing was a rare miss by a good restaurant that very often pays homage to Japanese cuisine; even if Manresa is certainly not a Japanese restaurant, their nods to Japan (and the food of other nations) is at times quite overt.

On the other hand, I think of Saison - again, not a Japanese restaurant, but the inspiration and technique borrowed from Japan is at times very intentional (their ike-jime sashimi dish, kintsugi plates, hoshigaki persimmon hanging tradition, etc.) Their diamond turbot sashimi dish is to me one of the clearest examples of a Japanese-inspired dish executed so authentically yet uniquely by a non-Japanese chef. The “wasabi” was made of kaiware daikon stems and jalapenos, and it had the clean, effervescent lift like that of fresh wasabi. Jalapenos and slightly bitter kaiware stems worked because California wasabi is notoriously “spicier” than that from Japan. A “salt” of dehydrated roasted wakame was a perfect accompaniment, because the diamond turbot (karei) is notable for growing in umami as it’s chewed, and roasting the wakame concentrated that flavor. A vinegar of roasted bones was almost like a light ponzu, so the dish reminded me of the Japanese dish “hirame no usuzukuri.” The fish was killed ike-jime, rendering a slightly crunchy “hagotai” texture that gave a pleasant sensation as you chewed. Delicately floral chrysanthemum (shungiku) matched its crunchy texture. Here, Saison showed masterful understanding of “hazawari” mouthfeel and how the flavors should build in such a sashimi dish. Yet the dish was uniquely Saison - not only because ingredients came from its own garden and local network of fisherman, but also because every dish there incorporates their live fire. Here, it was the dehydrated wakame “salt” and the roasting of fish bones, and in an otsukuri dish in Japanese cuisine, fire is not usually applied. Naturally, it was presented in a gorgeous glass box done kiriko - a glassware style which references Western technique applied to Japanese dishware.

Also, there are times when chefs of one ethnicity can cook something from another ethnicity and make their own type of cuisine. E.g. Itameshi, which isn’t really Italian, but it’s become it’s own thing. Part of that success is expectation setting. Itameshi is a form of Japanese inflected Italian food, largely pastas and pizzas with Japanese ingredients, but it’s not represented as being authentic Italian food proper. Or look at creole French food from New Orleans.

There is another issue of how deferential or dismissive the dining public at large can be towards a local chef cooking a cuisine that’s not of his or her original ethnicity.

I wish the food was what spoke loudest not only on the plate but also in the media - the background of a chef doesn’t need to be so much of a focal point, and in my opinion, any chef should be able to cook the food of anywhere, and if it’s good, it should be accepted as such.

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Don’t they use scraps that go to mince anyways for said hot dogs?

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they might. i certainly wouldn’t want to see it wasted. but your question suggests that you missed the point - anyone who’s routinely got scraps left over from kobe beef isn’t part of the demographic that would find the concept of gourmet street food a non sequitur.

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I’ll also add that my main issue is not that those things exist (Kobe/wafting burgers and dogs) but rather anyone would pay extra for the privilege to eat it. There is literally no point to doing so.

But to each there own!

While I agree, I do think Wagyu beef tartare can be very good. Better than very good, in fact.

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i suspect it’d be comparable to any sort of negitoro type of offering.from the sushi realm - but there you’re using toro that’s been scraped off the inside of the skin and there’s really not much else you can do with it. if you had wagyu beef trimmings due to similar circumstances, then by all means go for it.

Has anyone actually ever made a real Kobe hot dog or burger?.. I’ve never seen one. Only fakes that cost like $16, when a real one would have to cost more like $160