This is a telling comment (from the “Restaurants Sad to Leave Off,” #7):
“Marugame Monzo. Absolutely splendid udon made to order and first-rate tempura. Why does ramen always snag the Japanese noodle slot? Habit, I guess.”
Why is there only one “Japanese noodle slot” and does the “habit, I guess” explanation strike anyone else as Gold expressing some level of boredom with creating the list? Sure reads like that to me: boredom, ambivalence, laziness…disinterest in the process and the results.