That's AWFULLY diplomatic. I think I barfed a little after reading the article, although I'm not sure if it's more from what Kahn vs. what how the author writes. But perhaps that's part of the immersive experience?
An acquaintance of mine said that she felt ridiculous paying what Destroyer charges but that it was some of the prettiest and tastiest comfort food she's ever had. I certainly respect his vision and creativity. And I am definitely not his target market (and I'm not the target market for GQ readership, either).
But I just CAN'T on multiple levels. I don't want to go to a place where the music is the perhaps the most important part of the meal. And I certainly don't want to pay $$$ for music that purposely makes me uncomfortable. I can feel plenty uncomfortable in my everyday life, and it doesn't cost me anything.
But I certainly do look forward to seeing other people's report.