L.A. Regains a Sushi Master - Mori at Shiki Beverly Hills [Thoughts + Pics]

Spring is generally the season for clams. Torigai is great, and beautiful, too. Mirugai is a favorite of mine, one of my top 5. Tairagai (“pen shell clam”) is scallop-esque, and is great with a little nori wrap (maybe as “tairagai no isobeyaki” to look like a mochi sandwiched in nori), Consider also baigai (“ivory shell”) aka sea snails, which are great when cooked “nibitashi” (braised in a sweet dashi-based broth) and eaten with a toothpick. They have a great chewy texture that is nice alongside hotaru ika (another Spring specialty) with su-miso sauce and some contrasting thin cucumbers.

I think these can even go well with some mild game or grilled meats. Consider maybe a grilled lamb chop kojizuke or even kalbi. They might even work slightly warmed if there’s some type of barbecue sauce.

4 Likes

Okay good. I knew the general area. But figuring out Amberjack, Yellowtail, Kampachi, Kanpachi, Japanese Amberjack is still like “Who’s on First?” for me. It’s a bummer because we recently went to Aburiya Raku (again :relaxed:) and had the Sashimi Sampler (again :relaxed:), and they were excited to offer a not easily found species of one-of-the-above, but I couldn’t report on it because I’m confused and am loathe to repeadly ask the server to repeat his/herself.


Bottom right. Anyone?

3 Likes

looks like kan-buri - winter yellowtail

1 Like

Yes!

1 Like

Sushi nomenclature can be confusing in part because it’s not always applied consistently. Also, there are different names for species in the same family, for different ages, and even slight regional variation in naming.

They’re all loosely referred to as yellowtail in some way or another.

With that said, kampachi refers to Hawaiian (I think it’s pretty much all in Kona, farmed) almaco jack, which is technically not the same as amberjack but it passes for it on some menus.

Kanpachi is “greater amberjack,” a different fish than almaco jack. It tends to have a slightly snappier texture compared to kampachi, in my experience.

Japanese amberjack is also a different species. This is the one which goes from hamachi to buri. I believe you can find this even in Hawaii, complicating this but “kampachi” is different.

Bottom line - just follow your trusted sushi chef for what’s in season.

5 Likes

Certain sake could possibly work with some wild game, but in addition to being yamahai or kimoto, some aging to bring out some more robust flavors (in addition to acidity) so that it will hold up. At that point it becomes very much an acquired taste, like the blue cheese of sake. Kikuhime Yamahai Junmai is the prototypical style/genre that many other breweries aspire to achieve its profile and structure (I think aged one to two years in bottle at most), it’s one that I really like and I think it’s mostly available for ordering for the East Coast market (1.8L only) but you can find the 720 mL pretty easily in many 7-Eleven’s in Tokyo for cheap, and quite a few department stores across. The perfect izakaya sake and excellent warmed, especially with oden.
Another good one would be Shiokawa brewery’s Cowboy Yamahai Junmai Ginjo Genshu, that’s a lot more accessible (designed to go with beef, steak, greasy delicious grilled beef innards/horumon, and I’m sure can hold up against a buffalo or Venison without the gamey or funk feel from the sake itself)

A well structured Yamahai Muroka Nama Genshu (unfiltered, unpasteurized, undiluted) that is not just strong, but funky in a good way, high acidity, higher alcohol content, robust and well structured/balanced would also work well with gamey meats…and a good portion of these sake are seasonal winter releases. Junmai sake of that type are generally the best bets.

I need to try a good grill sake with American BBQ, BBQ sauce and smoked brisket sometime!

3 Likes

Hi @BradFord -

I’m glad we cleared that up. :grimacing: But seriously - as much as I like Samplers and Omakase - I might order à la carte for a bit, to familiarize myself with each piece.

Thanks!

1 Like

When making a reservation, do you guys have to specifically request Mori-san, or if you just ask to be seated at the sushi bar, that is already assumed?

We specifically requested Mori-san.

2 Likes

Hi @yangster777,

Yah, definitely ask for Mori-san. Or else you might be seated in front of the other itamae. Hope you have a good meal!

Hi @TheCookie,

No no! Don’t feel like because you didn’t get all the ingredients / dishes written down that you can’t report on them. :wink: Everyone’s reports are always welcome here on FTC. Your reports just add to the richness on our little board. :grin:

I’m looking forward to your next report on Raku now! :wink:

1 Like

Yes. There are two sushi bars - the regular one up front in the main dining room and the tiny curtained off space in the back where Mori-San is holding court. Based on what we saw going out to the front, the experience will be vastly different :wink:

Gosh @Chowseeker1999 -

I just came across this reply. It’s happening again where I’m not getting some notifications. Don’t think I’m dissing you folks if I don’t reply.

Awww thanks! I’m trying to lighten up a bit about that. Between trying to distinguish some similar seeming Neta (fish), the language barrier and not wanting to be a pest, it can get taxing. Sometimes you just want to put in your mouth and enjoy it. But for Sushi School I’m going to start ordering à la carte for a bit.

Not to tease you. I’ve probably been 3 times since my last report. We can’t stay away from this place. TBC…

1 Like

You know what’s interesting about this new set up? I never sat at the private area before Mori-san arrived - so I may be wrong - but it looked roomier, less cramped before. I guess they shortened it to make his area more exclusive with less customers?

Thanks to @helen_s and @Chowseeker1999 for the reservation information. FWIW, we were seated in front of Mori-san at the far end of the main bar (the section that is 8 seats long) right next to the where the dishes get passed to the servers. Throughout the night, Mori-san would work on nigiri for a family of three seated at the second bar section, and he would walk around the corner to serve them.

The chefs and servers were joking all night with each other and with customers, so the atmosphere felt very relaxed and comfortable for our first time dining with Mori-san (and definitely not the last).

Since there are already a bunch of pictures on this thread, I’ll just add ones that haven’t been added before, or are slightly different from what has been posted already:

Ankimo Tofu w/ Santa Barbara Uni, Ossetra Caviar, Baby Onion Sprouts (from Japan), and Ponzu

(cw from top left) Fried Homemade Tofu in Dashi, Steamed/Grilled Broccoli w/ Egg and Miso, Grilled Miso Squid, Firefly Squid w/ Honey Mustard and Pickled Cucumber, Bamboo Shoot Nigri, Hijiki Seaweed Simmered in Soy w/ Yuba-Shiitake-Carrot, Spinach and Shimeji Simmered in Dashi, Kumquat Gelee

Grilled Female Shrimp w/ Charred Kumquat and Water Cress


We were so excited by and in love with this dish that we forgot to ask for clarification on what kind of shrimp this was (it was just described as “sweet shrimp”). The meat was sweet (like hairy crab sweet) and perfectly cooked, but I was surprised at how sweet the roe was, rather than salty. This might have been the dish of the evening for us.

Tempura: Abalone, Bitter Greens (?), Bamboo Shoot


Didn’t catch what type of greens this was, but they were slightly bitter and reminded me a bit of chrysanthemum.

Hot Stone Grill: Wagyu, Portobello, Shimeji, Eringi, Asparagus w/ Wasabi and Soy


We were instructed to cook the wagyu first so the rendered fat would help with the veggies. I think we were too slow, because we ran out of fuel before we got to the portobellos, but I hate mushrooms, so no big loss there (and we wanted to make sure we had enough room for nigiri).

Mirugai (Geoduck)

Baby Onion Sprouts (from Japan) w/ Katsuobushi


I was jokingly thinking that Mori-san was trolling me by just putting random things on the rice just to see if I would eat it or call his bluff, but this was actually really good. The sweet, lightly sharp onion flavor pairing well with the savory notes of the katsuobushi. I would have never thought that something so simple as this would be so enjoyable.

Kanpyo Maki


I had forgotten what kampyo was as I had never been offered it before, so I asked Mori-san if it was dried daikon. But Mori-san corrected my mistake (it’s a dried gourd) and proudly explained that kampyo is one of his favorites (Japanese comfort sushi).
… … … … …
Just a question for you sushi experts, since my sushi knowledge is rather limited and few-and-far-between, the neta was colder than I am used to; I’m assuming that’s intentional, but what’s the rationale behind that choice? It made for an interesting contrast between the warm shari and the cold neta. Also, the wasabi amount was a tiny bit on the heavier side of what we’re used to.

Another interesting tidbit, we asked Mori-san about the soy sauce they use…complex and rich without being overly salty and somehow still being pretty light (as contradictory as that sounds). He takes normal soy sauce and customizes it (not sure how) to compliment his shari recipe. Something, he mentioned, that most sushi chefs do not consider. I don’t usually use soy sauce when eating sushi, but this is one time I might consider making an exception.

9 Likes

Spot prawns, also frequently served raw (meat and roe) & sometimes… twitching

Thanks, @Sgee. That’s what we thought, but I didn’t want to say without being sure.

The bitter greens tempura is likely Shungiku (Glebionis coronaria), also known as garland chrysanthemum.
In Taiwanese/Chinese hot pot restaurants it’s an iconic vegetable to use, which they call “Tong Ho”.

Baby green onion sprouts is called menegi in Japanese. The ones you got seem a bit thicker than what I’ve seen in Japan and Hong Kong.

1 Like

neta shouldn’t be cold, it should be cut and it should rest so that it’s served at room temp.

Odori (“dancing”)…

1 Like