It seems that either Lukshon has taken to even dimmer lighting than previously, so apologies for the dark photos this time around.
Business appears to have increased since J Gold named the place #3 on his list, as it was mostly full on a Tuesday night. The cooking remains as precise as ever.
Crispy Rice Cakes
Crispy is a slightly odd word for them to use in the description as they are only a touch crisped, while being closer to soft pillows of glutinous bliss. Juxtaposed against the crunch of the yu choy, bolstered by shiitake mushrooms and a potent mixture of black vinegar and soy sauce, this was a well-executed dish of comfort food. A bit acidic, a bit sweet, a touch bitter with alternating gummy and crunchy textures. My dining companion was highly impressed.
Pork Larb Meatballs
Showing off a rather elegant plating, the little larb meatballs could perhaps have had more of a curst, but perhaps they were meant to be soft and yielding in texture as a contrast to the puffed rice crackers. The cabbage, herbs, and a green fire aioli combined to create lovely bites that capture much of the melange of textures and flavors anchored by heat that one would expect from a great larb, yet at the same time the dish felt nothing like traditional Thai food. Creatively compelling, and highly tasty.
Heirloom Black Rice
I believe this is a classic at Lukshon, and for good reason: it is one of the tastiest rice dishes in LA. Immensely savory black rice coated in egg yolk bolstered by garlic, onion and large chunks of sweet lap cheong. It is savory, hearty, and a touch sweet. The rice itself is cooked perfectly and has a great chew to it without being overly hard. Just fantastic.
Chiang Mai Curry Noodles
A clear reference to the much beloved khao soi, this is another dish that doesn’t seem to actually mimic khao soi at all, yet captures the essence of the dish entirely. The sweet/spicy contrast of the broth set against some beautifully cooked chicken, and very precisely cooked noodles makes for an absolutely addictive bowl. The noodles are just wonderful, being perfectly chewy and thoroughly soaking in the broth. Perhaps the best example of how Lukshon can recreate the brilliant effect of favorite dishes without replicating them outright.
Masala Chai-Spiced Donuts
Finished up with some lovely donuts. They were lightly-fried, and quite bready, and were quite fragrant with the masala spice. The chocolate sauce on the side was spiked with green cardamom and had just enough of the spice so as not to be overpowering. A delightful way to end the meal that was not overly heavy and showcased a more savory spicing in each of its components as opposed to being overly sweet.
Aged Tung Ting Oolong ca. 1980s
We also had a pot of aged Oolong tea to finish off the meal. A truly fascinating tea that tasted a bit smokey, and distinctly had notes of fish sauce. It was a great accompaniment to the donuts. The single origin tea program at Lukshon is really quite interesting.
Overall, my image of Lukshon as an intellectual kitchen remains in tact, though I think the dishes are beginning to become even more immediately satisfying on a visceral level.
All told, the damage for this meal was only $84, making it about $44/person, which is fairly low for this level of cooking. On the other hand, perhaps it’s extraordinarily high depending upon ones frame of reference. Their alcohol selection is also nice; especially the odd dessert wines from Jura (I availed myself of a lambrusco and a macvin, but did not include them in the price of the meal).