I liked the review but had some pedantic issues:
RETRACTED: “Tsujita Annex (a back fat–heavy homage to Tokyo’s Ramen Jiro)”_
RETRACTED: Not sure he understands what Jiro-kei ramen is here. It would usually be called “Jiro Ramen/Jiro-style Ramen/Jiro-kei Ramen” but hard to imagine calling it “Ramen Jiro”. Jiro-kei ramen has no relation to Jiro Sushi.
As @boogiebaby pointed out, the writer is referring to the shop, not the style.
I would have liked to see him highlight the difference between Japanese sansho and Chinese sichuan peppers. (Although, I think Killer Noodle uses Chinese sichuan.)
"The soups come with a thinner, looser noodle that I thought lacked the customary Tsujita bite; while the earthiness of the wheat and alkali undertone of the kansui was there, perhaps they spent a minute too long in the cooker. They had, to quote Ken Watanabe in Tampopo, “sincerity but they lack guts.” "
Their noodle selection was purposeful, I must believe. They wanted a more soothing, softer noodle to match the lighter shio broth. When going to a legitimate ramen restaurant, you almost always have the option to direct the kitchen on the doneness of your noodles–from very soft to very hard. I would recommend that he order very hard noodles next time and if he still doesn’t like them, it is due to the noodle selection and not the doneness of the noodles.
- Too many Tampopo references. This makes it seem as if Tampopo is his only source of reference when it comes to ramen. Also, the ramen eaten in Tampopo (and drunk to the last drop) was not the same as the ramen Killer Noodle is serving. Ramen does not need to be of the drink-to-the-last-drop variety to be good. In fact, I would guess that the majority of Japanese people in Japan choose not to drink all of the soup due to it’s high fat and sodium content. Rather than drinking all of the soup at Killer Noodle, I would recommend ordering a side of rice and sopping it up–especially with the “dry” versions.
Edit: #1 retracted, sorry Lucas. Thank you, @boogiebaby.