Return to Sender - New York's NoMad Arrives in L.A. - Mezzanine [Thoughts + Pics]

:metal:

I’m looking to make Poulet au Demi-Deuil (“half-mourning” chicken with truffles under skin) and hopefully perfect one by Christmas. If you have any good recipe, please feel free to share!

A good roast chicken is hard to top. An easy Sunday routine: roast chicken with carrots, green onions, radishes, turnips, parsnips, and potatoes with a little bit of Maldon salt; some village-level white Burgundy. The year-end holiday plan: “poulet au demi-deuil” with sauteed mushrooms in vin jaune, roast sunchokes and celeriac, leeks; “pommes anna” with herbs (if it were Spring I’d do morels and ramps); 1990 Bollinger RD. If we’re talking the “whole chicken,” maybe some chicken odd-ends and foie mousseline/roulade wrapped in kale or if feeling extra, some foie torchon with green apple gelee and Barsac. Finish with some Laberdolive Armagnac.

I don’t mind paying a lot for chicken if it’s really good, but it sounds like the Nomad version is a miss. I skipped the Nomad in NYC even though I was intrigued by the sound of this chicken dish - I understand they mix the black truffle bits with brioche and pipe it under the skin. For that money I’d prefer some version of demi-deuil!

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AOC has a nice “Ode to Zuni” chicken on their menu. It is quite good but not quite as good as Zuni’s.

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Kevin Eats review of Nomad couldn’t be more different that yours. Not passing judgement as everybody has their own opinions. I think you have built up tons of equity on FTC with your great, honest and fair reviews. Not spending my hard earned money at Nomad.

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Here’s the link: kevinEats: The NoMad Mezzanine (Los Angeles, CA)

Thanks. Not sure what happened but thought I added the link.

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the space certainly looks beautiful. And I bet these ice cubes cost a fortune.

Also noted in his review…

Roast Chicken for Two [$98.00] | Black Truffle & Brioche Stuffing with Baby Turnips & Sesame
We began with the white meat, which had a stuffing of brioche, foie gras, and truffle underneath the crispy skin.

Maybe his chicken breast wasn’t overcooked, or after nine cocktails and some wine he didn’t notice?

Pulled punches such as “perhaps a touch drier than I’d prefer” and the lack of comment on the steep prices for a meal in which “the food was, for the most part, quite good” make me wonder if he was comped.

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A lot of bars have ice cubes with branding on them nowadays, including the lobby bar at the Freehand Hotel a few blocks away. From what I recall, the cocktails at Freehand aren’t noticeably more expensive than elsewhere downtown.

So many pulled punches…
Not a trace of criticism.

Of course they didn’t. It’s a renewable resource that doesn’t disturb the aviary ecosystem, silly!

Yes, this. If someone can make it delicious, charge whatever the market will tolerate. But $100 for small and dry… Well…

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99 Ranch Markets carry Jidori chickens that hover around 2.5 pounds. Jon’s Marketplace carries a brand called Golden H which comes in at a uniform 3.5 pounds; perfect for roasting.

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Me too.

Jidori chickens are supposed to be slaughtered the day they arrive in the store so they still have rigor mortis, which gives the meat a very firm texture that may seem strange if you’re not used to it.

@robert Can you provide source on “slaughtered the day they arrive”?
I just checked http://jidorichicken.com/ and did not find anything that explicitly states this.

Closest was “We start early in the morning, and guarantee that your whole birds are delivered immediately, making it the freshest chicken there is. The benefits of this freshness can be tasted: creamy yet firm with a natural chicken flavor.”

Leaves some wiggle room…

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has kevineats ever disliked anything?

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Further down the page:

We start early in the morning, and guarantee that your whole birds are delivered immediately, making it the freshest chicken there is. The benefits of this freshness can be tasted: creamy yet firm …

“We start early in the morning…”

Does this not leave room for interpretation?
Do they say “start” to avoid saying they “slaughter” the chickens early in the morning?

No offense to kevineats, but you don’t read his blog for criticism—great for pictures and layout of menu. He’s got a nice niche blog and has its usefulness. Don’t think he does media dinners though.

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Read his review of Clifton’s. But I know what you’re saying. Generally, he seems to like everything.

Historically, he has always disclosed meals where they were comped.