Tasting the Seasons of Japan - The Exquisite, Austere, Pure Kaiseki Cuisine of Hayato [Thoughts + Pics]

@Chowseeker1999: one thing to keep in mind is that places like True Sake or any restaurant, as long as one has a business account, can access the wholesalers/distributors and buy sake at wholesale prices. Some sell by the bottle, and some want a minimum purchase (e.g. a case) Maybe not everyone has the same level of access to certain inventory, but the cost to such businesses are pretty much the same. True Sake is only a reference point where an option is to buy retail and pay corkage if it makes sense for the consumer, that if you were to buy and bring to a restaurant, whether it is as practical vs ordering a bottle from the restaurant (and it wouldn’t be the same bottle of course, but that gives you an idea). From there you can guess or gauge the markup. So Chef Go’s markup is super reasonable in relation, so in that regard his profit/net is higher than True Sake for a bottle but significantly less than the competition. It’s like Kinjiro deciding to charge $950 for Dassai Beyond, versus $1200 to $1600 at some other restaurants in SF, LA or NY, and True Sake retails for $750 (as a reference point it’s about $330 retail from a high end department store basement in Japan, and US wholesale could be close or nearing $400 as a best guess).

@CiaoBob: Yes to Goryu Kubo, loved it and I want to go again soon but getting expensive. Now I am contemplating Ishikawa…but unsure (although it should be very good). If you love soba, Goryu Kubo and Aoyama Ichita both have a soba course at the end, though I would probably give the edge to Ichita’s soba since Ichita san apprenticed at a Ginza soba restaurant prior to the kaiseki restaurant. 2 years ago when I visited GK there was a staff member who worked there part time and used to live in Palo Alto California who assisted with answering questions and sake. Prices have since gone up along with the cost of ingredients but I felt it blew away the 3 Michelin star Kichisen in terms of satisfaction level, as well as the top notch hospitality. Go during the fall/winter for a wider spread of seafood delicacies and if you can afford to splurge, go for the more expensive course (although the base looks great already). I should do a post with pictures from the meal 2 years ago of GK sometime.

@Bagel: look for Mark Robinson’s book “Izakaya”, he covers a couple examples where one of the restaurants is counter seating, looks super elegant (not yakitori, not typical izakaya casual atmosphere). In Shibuya, Kotaro would fit that bill, though less kaiseki looking and more small plates, but very high level. Not easy to book, but very good. Tadenoha looks interesting, counter seating and the chef grills fish in front of you where the charcoal looks like logs perched at a campfire or fireplace, and large metal skewers of salted fish are placed diagonally / angled above the flame. There are places that also have tables in addition to counters, I suppose those count as well (Kotaro has table seating). In terms of course offerings, that depends on the restaurant. Kotaro has a preview “omakase” which are the greatest hits of the menu (and not so interesting), but the a la carte and special items are written entirely in Japanese, so if you cannot read it’s a major challenge. I do not know about the others.

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thanks - I’m going to try it in October if concierge can arrange it. Looks wonderful.

Hi @beefnoguy,

Thanks again for the great knowledge shared on the differences of kaiseki vs. kappo. :slight_smile: Very interesting.

I hope you get a chance to try Hayato on your next trip!

Hi @beefnoguy,

Great point about True Sake and wholesale pricing. :slight_smile: Yah compared to the prices around town and in SF for certain Sake we’ve seen, Chef Go’s prices seemed very low and more than fair.

I can’t wait to try Goryu Kubo and Aoyama Ichita based on your enthusiastic endorsement. :slight_smile:

There is already built-in gratuity when you get the final tab at Hayato (so yes, like Japan). But of course, if you as the diner felt that the team went above-and-beyond, you are still welcome to add more gratuity.

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In Kyoto (which I know is also on your itinerary), definitely try Takehisa, which fits squarely into the kappo izakaya category. It is near the Imperial Palace in Kyoto.

Sushi kappo is also great in Kyoto at Nakaichi, which is located in Gion, just east of Yasaka Shrine.

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Wow thanks for sharing! Those places look super interesting and appreciate the recommendations and knowledge! Totally adding both to my list for next time. Now if only flights to Tokyo would come back down…

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Fares to Tokyo/KIX are abnormally high (on United at least) currently. If you fly into Bangkok first, then NRT, fare can be 30%+ cheaper. Then you are “stuck” in BKK for at least a little while, terrible. :slight_smile:

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Better than 11 hours in Iceland.

Polar opposites. Brrrrrrrr

Bangkok must be the antithesis of ICEland.

Funny tangent: We were dogsledding in arctic Sweden a few years back. It was a beautiful, sunny, minus 40-degree day (but it’s a dry cold because even the humidity in the air freezes and turns to frost then), and we asked our local guide from Lappland how he can possibly not be wearing gloves and yet avoid frostbite. He calmly replied that, as a native to this region, he had been herding reindeer since childhood, and thus he’s used to these biting cold conditions. He added that he cannot imagine going to warmer climates.

We then got back to our hotel, where the guide’s buddy secretly whispers to us that our guide bolts for BKK any chance he gets - LOL.

Keepin’ it on the food: Reindeer meat can be gamey, but the lingonberry sauce really makes the dish delicious.

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Tokyo’s Goryu Kubo review (2016 visit) for those curious of one of Go san’s mentor’s restaurants

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Crazy delicious meal at Hayato tonight.
Too tired to go into details other than to say it’s not really fair to compare what he’s up to to any other place in our city or - probably - country. Heads and shoulders above.

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Hi @CiaoBob,

Thanks for the report back on a great dinner you had at Hayato. :slight_smile: What were your favorite dishes?

That’s so hard.
We had the same meal as you and all were great.
If I had to pick:
Amadai (Tile Fish) Nabe, Chrysanthemum Greens, Shiitake Mushrooms, Bamboo
Binchotan Grilled Nodoguro (Blackthroat Seaperch) + Gobo (Burdock Root)
Live Santa Barbara Spot Prawns, Okra, Fava Beans, Tosazu Jelly
Dungeness Crab, Junsai (Water Shield), Baby Turnip Soup

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No love for the bo-zushi?

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Nothing but love for it. @Chowseeker1999 “made” me choose a few dishes. I could have chosen ALL dishes.

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Not a single miss.

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Hi @CiaoBob,

Great choices! :grin: Weren’t the broths just so delicate and pure? Just amazing.

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Oh one note about Parking:

  • Validated Parking only cost us $4.50 for the entire evening.

Not sure if it’s because @PorkyBelly gave feedback and led to a nice social change (like with the APL Onions!), :wink: but that’s definitely more fair than the higher prices during those earlier visits.