Just my opinion. J Gold is more a storyteller, who offers his personal experiences with a given eatery through prose. He doesn't offer his thumb up or down - that he lets the reader decide. So he is a very different reviewer from others who professionally write about food for publications. He seems to attempt to keep an at-arms-length relationship with the industry. This was obvious pre-Pulitzer, as very few seemed to know what he looked like, and he preferred to keep it that way.
From the few write-ups I've seen by kevineats, not that he's a cheerleader or shill for these places he visits, but it's obvious that the better he is treated and presented with dishes prepared with special care, the better the places look through his lens. Your observations confirm this in my mind.