Welcome to Italy - The Handmade Pastas of Chef Evan Funke - Felix (Thoughts / Pics)

from what ive been told(by very reliable people) and seen, Robert, there are slices cut and served in some places in Italy

This whole notion of what is traditionally done in Italy is a bit strange.

Not to sound like Trump, but lest we forget weā€™re in Uh-Mare-REE-Ka.

I mean I get that most Italians serve pies uncut, but Italians also donā€™t use ice cubes in water (or any liquids), and they also generally donā€™t do cocktails.

So should Felix not serve ice water? And dispense with their cocktail program? All in the name of Eye-Tal-EE-An authenticity?

Thatā€™d be fucking stupid.

8 Likes

I recall them at Bucato and not being wowed by them necessarily; I would say they are significantly improved at Felix.

I actually donā€™t think they serve ice water lol

And I would be fine without them letting go of the cocktail program personally. It doesnā€™t seem like it fits the food very well to me. But I get the point that they are already making some concessions I guess.

Emilia-Romagna, Tuscany, Veneto, Umbria, Lazio

Hmm, so you havenā€™t even been to the northern parts? No Alba or Piemonte? No Milan or anything in the lake district?

Iā€™m not sure the places you listed (which to my mind seem like a family trip to the must see spots of Italy) constitute traveling extensively. So perhaps itā€™s unnecessary to imply that because somebody hasnā€™t eaten food in its ā€œmotherlandā€ that they canā€™t possibly know a good version from a bad one.

Curious, but do you think Funke has potentially over-extended himself with this menu? Covering so many regions and what not? Iā€™d be skeptical as hell if some French joint was serving dishes from Paris, Lyon, Nice, etc.

If it werenā€™t Funke, Iā€™d be worried.

Thatā€™s not necessarily what I was saying. I was saying that those things exist in Italy. It seemed like the claim was more about how a pasta shouldnā€™t taste like American BBQ because itā€™s ā€œnot Italianā€ as opposed to ā€œthis is a bad version of an Italian dishā€.

I wasnā€™t trying to say I am an expert on Italian food, just that Iā€™ve eaten stuff in Italy that corresponds to some things people seem to be finding ā€œout of lineā€ at Felix, when in reality they may just not be represented in Italian restaurants.

Naturally anyone is free to hate whatever they want, though.

1 Like

I am not sure honestly, perhaps he has somewhat. It does seem incredibly ambitious.

The regional variance is kind of confined to the pastas, though it seems like. Maybe more time will tell. It may depend upon whether youā€™re mainly concerned with the pasta itself, or the various sauces.

It will also be a possible overextension to really change pastas out that frequently as opposed to just doing things in a more concentrated form and perfecting them.

For nowā€¦it seems like things taste pretty remarkable to me. As usual, I am most likely in the minority, though.

Ehh I know we both loved Bucato and I know we both love Bestia so I know that our Italian tastes definitely overlap. Itā€™s just interesting to me that I feel a few people on FTC have mentioned pasta dishes at Felix that werenā€™t exemplary.

Perhaps itā€™s the cloud of nostalgia, but I cannot remember a pasta dish at Bucato I didnā€™t find wonderful. But I also donā€™t remember Bucato aiming to take us through every single town in Italy, you know?

Iā€™m not sure. I recall there being a lot of variation (and changing pastas) at Bucato. It just wasnā€™t so explicit. Maybe Iā€™m wrong.

As I recall, Bucato received massive amounts of criticism as well, and many people had gripes about the pastas. I believe we are in the minority who just find nearly everything Funke does with pasta to be awesome.

That being saidā€¦I need to return next week, he has upped the portion of the pastas significantly, which I suppose is nice in a certain sense lol

Iā€™ll be interested to see how they are doing during a weekday service, though.

1 Like

In Italy, when you sit down in a pizzeria with table service, you get your own pie, made to order, uncut. There is pizza a taglio, but thatā€™s rectangular and sold as a snack or to go, usually by weight.

Iā€™d certainly go out of my way to dine there if they did everything allā€™Italiana.

Hi @ipsedixit,

I donā€™t even remember the Blossoms at Bucato. :sweat_smile: We mightā€™ve ordered them once? (or maybe skipped them.) But Iā€™d say the Squash Blossoms at Felix are better than the ones at Pizzeria Mozza (at least as of 10 - 11 months ago). Hopefully they can remain consistent (swapping out the oil, frying at the right temperature, etc.).

5 posts were split to a new topic: [Quarantine] Aesthete and linus

Thank you for the review and pics. Iā€™m going in a week and super exited to see that amazing orecchiette that I was obsessed with when it was served at Bucato. It has to be one of my top ten favorite dishes of ALL TIME. The texture of the pasta was addictive and satisfying and the sauce was so perfectly balanced and assertive enough to stand up to the sturdy pasta. And I agreee about the pesto being meekā€“of all the pasta dishes at Bucato, i thought that was the weakest. I wonder if he is serving the excellent hand-rolled maccheroni these days? I remember that being served with a ragu of some kind (I think rabbit?) and it was definitely one of the more memorable combinations from Bucato. Again, itā€™s all about the textureā€“supple and delicate, yet structured. I still remember it to this day, some four/five years later. Really excited about the upcoming carbo-load!

2 Likes

Thatā€™s the classic Pugliese way to serve orecchiette, though theyā€™d typically use either anchovies or cheese rather than both.

1 Like

The maccheroni with rabbit ragu was incredible at Bucato. That is another pasta I hope he brings back besides the bianco ragu!

Hi @soniabegonia,

Thanks! Iā€™m looking forward to your thoughts when you go. Hope you like it. :slight_smile: and I definitely enjoyed their Orecchiette (both sauces that came with it were wonderful).

I never got a chance to try their hand-rolled Maccheroni, but I hope they add it on the menu soon (or rotate it in as the weeks go on). Thanks. :slight_smile:

Thanks for the info @robert. :slight_smile: