Nice article. Did you know “A Plate of Ripe Fruit” is on the dessert menu? I love California.
NYT review today
Also hit up Angler during our recent trip.
Had to sample the cocktails after all the accolades - here is the Don Lockwood
Raw oysters - Pacific Gold, Beau Soleil, and Shigoku; as usual, you guys were right, and the Shigoku were the best - plump with just enough brininess
Sesame bread from Tartine bakery - outstanding!
Simple salad - bright, fresh greens with a subtle dressing that was just acidic and salty enough to bring out the flavors of the veggies
Sweet chicory Caesar - I always love ordering well-executed Caesar salad variants
Raw scallop with some minced(?) apples
We couldn’t decide between the petrale sole and the pasture raised chicken so ordered both! I liked this, but you really needed to keep pouring the sauce over the meat to enhance the flavor (and perhaps that’s the point). The grilled skin had a really nice texture, with charred, earthy, and oily flavors.
Embered beet - they roast the beet for several hours and let it dry out while the juices drip out, and then at the end, they infuse the juices back into the beet to “restore” it. We should have asked them more about the details, but the dish was rich and utterly satisfying - it reminded me a bit of the best BBQ pulled pork. I thought this was the best dish of the night.
Pasture raised chicken - Peking duck style; the skin was not as decadent as your usual Peking duck - it was less crispy/fatty and slightly chewier. The entire chicken had been brined, so even the breast pieces were extremely juicy. My dining partner thought this dish was a bit too salty, but I really liked it. Was my second favorite dish of the night.
Angler potato - I did not enjoy this as much as the rest of you. I did not find the skin to be as crispy and decadent as advertised, and the insides tasted like an undercooked baked potato.
We liked our meal here - the restaurant feels like a game lodge, as has been mentioned before, and the service is detailed and attentive but relaxed. Couple things though - the price does creep up on you, and I had read a Yelp review (I know, I know) comparing this place to Asador Extebarri in Spain, and that probably made my expectations a bit unrealistic going into the meal.
Reminiscent of Saison’s “fire in the sky” Bull’s-blood beet which was smoked to dehydrate for a few days and then reconstituted with bone marrow, among other things (once had it with pickled rose and peach vinegar…paired with a very racy Kabinett, f’ing outstanding).
The Angler “embered tomato” a few months back was excellent, and it, too, was very reminiscent of BBQ. The way they coax out vegetables’ flavor with a judicious use of the live fire/smoke results in very concentrated and savory flavors.
This foodie I know said he ordered the most expensive dishes and then as he saw the vegetables going by realized he’d made a mistake.
Rolls with butter ($12) I would have sworn came from sheep’s milk, but they swore it was cow’s. Habanero salsa and pickled peppers behind the weapon, not sure what they came with.
Radicchio ($16), before and after.
Embered Ruby beet ($18) with beet greens and was it walnuts? Indeed ended up tasting like barbecue sauce. Really good.
Fluke sashimi ($27), least interesting of the batch.
With two glasses of wine from the very short by-the-glass list it came to $121.91 with tax and SF mandate before tip. I don’t think it makes much sense for a solo diner.
Was way too sober to order a $45 glass of amaro.
Starting next week, open for lunch Tuesday - Saturday, 11:30 am - 2:30 pm.
I went for lunch last week. They’ve had lunch Thurs-Sat for a little while now. Menu is just slightly different. Wasn’t sure if they’d do Tues and Wed but it’s now another option when working around there. They are sensitive to time for workers’ lunch hours.
As “senior citizens” we love lunch out. Did you like it?
Yes. They just don’t do the whole fishes / chickens, etc. for lunch.
Yes. I like the idea of returning for lunch for some oysters, a salad (radicchio or even the simple lettuces and herbs is very good), parker rolls, and split a fish and maybe one other main animal protein, a glass of wine with the fish or a daquiri to start. Finish with the sundae with smoked caramel. I loved several permutations of the beet at Saison, but the beet at Angler is dressed with walnut oil and walnuts (I don’t eat walnuts, so I haven’t tried it). Also, the bar is also open for walk-ins and isn’t hard to get in if you get there when they open. Similar to how I’d order at Zuni (oysters, caesar, chicken, a glass of wine). I liked the Shigoku and Miyagi oyster varietals in particular.
The radicchio with vegetarian “XO” is very good. It’s not actually a head of radicchio, but rather the best leaves of several radicchios, each cleaned and dressed separately, then recomposed to look like one head.
Thanks, sir. Your opinion is always valued.
Inspired by Dave Chang’s podcast, I went back last night. Walked in a little after 9:00, they had seats at the second bar but those stools are pretty uncomfortable so we sat outside. Great view of the Bay Lights and with the heater it was quite comfortable. Table was a little small.
Parker House rolls & butter ($12), radicchio $15), and beet ($16) were pretty much identical to last time. All great but (except for the rolls & butter) to me it’s weird for a restaurant so focused on local products to have unchanging signature dishes.
Caesar ($12): very good though eclipsed by the radicchio. This time of year, why not use romaine lettuce, which is at its peak?
Potato ($16): fried outside was nice but the inside was quite dry. The prep doesn’t make sense to me. Didn’t finish, wouldn’t order again.
Grilled lobster ($60): good but quite small and a little dry.
Hen of the Woods ($15): subtle and delicious but probably wouldn’t order it again.
They served the beets and mushrooms as sides to the lobster but they would have worked better before. Vice-versa for the potato.
With a bottle and glass of wine from the lower end of the price range ($70 & $19), 6% SF mandate, and sales tax, the total before tip was $271.42. Even by SF standards I think that’s kind of a lot for a light, mostly vegetarian dinner for two.
Thanks for saying that before I finished my math.
ice cold bivalves - shigoku (willapa bay, wa), kumamoto (willapa bay, wa), pacific gold (morro bay, ca)
the molluscs and cocktail sauce were excellent
the chicken or the egg?
this was fine; lean and clean.
heirloom tomato with honey vinegar
holy shit, mind fucking blow, the best tomato i’ve ever had and possible the best thing i’ve had at angler so far. the tomato itself was perfect but then it was topped with fourteen tomatoes cooked down in the embers and the concentration of sweet, smoky, umami flavors was incredible. it was basically tomato turned up to 11 and as dave chang would say a “fuck you josh skenes” dish. great rec @BradFord. This is a must order @Chowseeker1999, @Bookwich, @beefnoguy, @brisket44
grilled hand-dived scallops
textbook. excellent crust. loved the butter-lemon sauce.
milk soft serve ice cream, smoked caramel, cacao nibs, salt
leave the caramel. take my diet.
Thanks @PorkyBelly. Sounds wonderful. Would you say the OG Angler is just cooking at a different level (better) than the new L.A. branch?
I was thinking that tomato would be great. Was the whole tomato raw? Peeled? I’ll have to get in to try it while the season lasts.
No, I wouldn’t say that, both places are cooking at a very high level and are pretty equal food-wise. The biggest difference is sf’s superior location and higher price.
If the la location has the heirloom tomato on the menu I wouldn’t hesitate to order it.
It was either raw or slightly poached and peeled.
So do you prefer cocktail sauce with oysters rather than mignonette or just a squeeze of lemon