Caboco (Brazilian in DTLA)

Peony: I don’t want to be negative, but I was not impressed tonight. I was expecting the food to have more character, but the Brazilian elements were kind of weak, so none of the dishes were memorable tonight. But since this restaurant is at the very early stage, I don’t want to judge too early, and I may consider visiting again after seeing more good reviews from other diners.

Warrior: I was disappointed with Caboco. While I have never been to Brazil, I used to enjoy muqueca at the eponymous Muqueca Restaurant in Cambridge, MA, which served a complex, savory seafood stew. I am confident that was the real muqueca. The “muqueca” at Caboco was a newfangled impostor, tasting simple and sweet and lacking depth of flavor. I could express similar sentiments toward all the dishes. There were two highlights: nicely cooked black cod and a thick, creamy banana purée. But the combination of the black cod with a fresh chopped tomato sauce, similar to bruschetta topping, didn’t work at all for me, though the sauce itself was tasty. And the pairing of that dish with the banana purée made even less sense; they tasted ridiculous together. My restaurant recommendation would be Wood Spoon over Caboco.

How LA’s Caboco Is Changing the Way We Think of Brazilian Cuisine.
By Andy Wang for Robb Report:
The link is copied from Apple News+, which may or may not work for everyone.

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