Carnitas ... a how-to and what-is

Didn’t know how to steal the video from their FB post but if you have FB, check this video out… (not sure if it will embed here or play if you aren’t logged into FB)

Zamora Bros

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What establishment is that video from?

So I guess they deep fry them after the carnitas are done braising?

Sorry! Zamora Bros.

Not sure how they do it here. I’ve never been. Traditionally they’re supposed to braise them for a long time in lard, and then they move them into a cauldron of lard, higher heat, that fries them up, right?

It’s the other way around where they’re flash fried then braised.

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Correct! Netflix has a new Taco Series. The Second is about Carnitas and it’s a beautiful thing!!

Aside from Zamoras, my second favorite carnitas are from Oxnard’s Carnitas El Rey. They include the Cuerito into their tacos, which is the skin that is confit and it more luxurious than any tendon prep. It’s like magical, solid, pork glaze. They also make their own flour tortillas which put Sonora town’s to shame…

https://www.yelp.com/biz/carnitas-el-rey-oxnard

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I had to look up the video I’d seen a few years ago from Rick Bayless visiting Mexico City showing how they’re made. Here, they do it slow braise than crisp. (Well in this version he just says that’s how they do it — There’s a longer version of the video where they show the whole process but I can’t find it right now).

Chicharrones look insane. I’d die if there was a place like that here.

https://youtu.be/kATDHi2M32Y

From Rick Bayless’ website.

“In the traditional Mexican kitchen, carnitas are typically cooked first at a high temperature to promote browning, then simmered low and slow until they are richly tender. Here, we’re doing the reverse, cooking the pork slowly in its own fat in a slow cooker (it requires much less fat and much less tending), then browning it when it’s time to serve.”

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Apparently the guy can’t make up his mind, or this place he’s showing in Mexico City is making them in an untraditional way.

Look at this place in Chicago!! Yum!

https://www.kcet.org/shows/mexico-one-plate-at-a-time-with-rick-bayless/episodes/crispy-carnitas‬

Should spin off this thread into a carnitas discussion!!

Second for a carnitas discussion thread. As far as “searing vs. low temp cooking” order goes I wouldn’t be surprised if there’s still lot of range and binary opinions even among professionals.

I mean, some argue a “sear/low temp/sear” process but you still find plenty of “searing first seals in the JUICES” posts in this day and age (and that’s even before the many ambiguous factors that go into juiciness in the first place).

Again, sorry for the drift. I’d be super down for a carnitas discussion if it hasn’t already been pounded to death

I’m so confused now. The Taco Chronicles basically says good carnitas is going to be super moist and fatty, with fat dripping down your arms - this seems like exactly what Carnitas El Momo is doing, but completely opposite of the the crispy edge carnitas. I mean, how do you even keep crispy edges after braising something that has been fried? Further, it seems the soft style carnitas (for lack of better phrasing) is deliberately seeking that texture e.g. with the inclusion of moist gelatinous skin.

I’ve actually been curious about this braised/crispy dichotomy in carnitas for a while. For one thing, not all pork cuts are the same so you inherently create different types of carnitas depending on what kind of cut, right? I thought part of the fun was getting to choose what kind of carnitas or mix you want. As a for instance, at Cinco Puntos I gotta have the crispy shoulder-type carnitas with the super tender trompa meat.

That is the magic of the Carnitas tall Cart with the Lamp. It prevents things from being overly moist coming out the braise. Also, one the KEY points brought up in the Netflix doc was that the Carnitas are to be cut, RIGHT before they serve the taco. Which is why I prefer to buy at Zamoras over every other place, Momo’s… Even El Rey will pre shred allowing the steam to escape and sog things up. Zamoras take them out from the braise and place them single layer in a cookie sheet under the heat lamps. This keeps the steam inside the exterior (keeping things moist and tender) and the outside crisp… It’s not super crispy but you can always grind up some Chicaharon to sprinkle on top if you REALLY want the crunch…

–Dommy!

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Thanks for the knowledge drop. TIL

They’re supposed to cook the carnitas in the chicharon fat right?

lard

It’s my understanding that the meaty chunks we associate with carnitas are cooked similar to a confit- braised in its own rendered fat (lard) low until the collagen is broken down then crisped. By the way, that does answer the question about how something can be braised and crispy on the outside at the same time. Since the outside is in contact with fat only then then it will essentially dehydrate.

However, this has all been pieced together from various sources so I’ve honestly never been sure if this technique is universal or if there even is a universal technique. I mean, this works great for high collagen, high fat cuts like shoulder but the resulting product is different than trompa or chicharron (which itself has different subtypes).

All of which is to ask, is there an agreed upon definition for carnitas? The literal translation (“little meats”) is so fundamental is it actually one dish or an umbrella term for the result from cooking a whole pig? Do meats like chicharron fall under the definition of carnitas?

You describe a low then high cook. In Taco Chronicles, they specifically describe it as high then low.

So it seems that at best, the method is not universal. Same difference as a traditional sear vs reverse dear I suppose.

There are many different ways to cook carnitas: braise in lard and serve soft, braise in lard and serve crisp, braise in other things and serve soft. Could be just shoulder or some other braising cut or could include all different parts.

One of Diana Kennedy’s books has a great recipe for carnitas caseras that includes a whole orange.