Casa Modena was consistently less than we expected, hoped for, or paid for.
As we entered Casa Modena earlier tonight, Saturday, June 9, at 5 pm, a small sign advised me that the chef was away in Italy this week, “hunting truffles.” I was assured that a good chef that he had trained was in the kitchen, using his recipes, so we went in. We shouldn’t have.
Our wine order was taken and served. The pours were so skimpy that I measured the diameter of the glass and noted the height of the wine carefully. At home later I pulled a similar glass from our menagerie, verified the diameter, and put water in to the same height as the waitress had put wine. A measuring cup said that was exactly a 4-ounce pour. Not 5 ounces, the semi-standard 5-glasses-per-bottle pour, but 4 ounces. $9 per glass.
We ordered an appetizer, two pastas, and two main plates, anticipating small portions and figuring on taking home any leftovers. The late Giovanni’s in Culver City had a standout melanzana appetizer we ordered there on almost every visit; we’d enjoyed it elsewhere too. Always served fully heated, a dishful of eggplant was smothered in an herby sauce of fresh tomatoes so good that you wanted to pick up the leftover sauce with bread. It was generous enough for a light dinner for one person. In contrast, Casa Modena provided six little tea-biscuit rounds of eggplant, each 1/8 inch thick, knife-spread with a simple tomato sauce–with enough pepper on each round to season half a dozen eggs! The rounds were barely warm. Could they have just come out of the refrigerator, had a moment in a pan or microwave, and been “improved” with pepper? $12 for a skimpy and poor version of what can be a delicious vegetarian dish. But less was still to come.
We have been to Italy (Rome, Florence, Siena, and Volterra, anyway), and know that lasagna in Italy is different from lasagna in New York and Boston, the model for LA pizzeria lasagna. So the small stature and absence of red sauce did not surprise us. Layers of lasagna noodles were filled by a tomato-meat paste and what appeared to be bechamel sauce. There was essentially no cheese flavor (a container of grated Parmesan was offered). Tasted separately, the meat paste did not suggest beef, but was meaty. Taken as a whole, I can’t analyze the lasagna except to say that its flavor combination was not harmonious, unlike the lasagnas that I had in Italy. I would not order it again. $17.
This was a birthday-week dinner; I wanted to splurge and experience truffles for the first time in my life. Why not at “The Truffle Hunter’s” restaurant? The FTC discussion had said mostly nice things about Casa Modena’s Tagliatelle tartufo, noting that these were not the better winter black truffles, but less-expensive summer truffles. The waitress said that the kitchen was out of tagliatelle noodles but would prepare the dish with fettucine. A generous bowl of fettucine amply covered in a butter-cream sauce arrived. The waitress, holding a 1-inch-diameter, round, light brown object that I assumed was a truffle, proceeded to shave many, many millimeter-thin slices from it until the fettucine was almost covered. Some small slices even fell onto the floor. She had shaved about 2/3 of the object when she finished shaving and put the bowl in front of me. I picked up a small clump of two or three slices from the top of the dish and tasted them by themselves. Astonishingly, after all I had read, they were nearly flavorless, though a very slight mustiness remained afterwards in my mouth. Their mouthfeel was that of the stem of a fresh mushroom. I mixed the truffles into the dish and my wife and I shared it, as we had the other items. I had expected something that would be noticeably new and interesting, certainly not something flavorless, but that is what I got. There would have been much more flavor had the round objects been ordinary fresh supermarket mushrooms. As I went through my part of the bowl, I kept trying to find the flavor, as did my wife. Except for maybe a slight mustiness, there was no flavor but that of the butter-cream-sauced noodles, pleasant but monotonous after awhile. $29.
Pollo alla Cacciatora, my choice, was flavorful and familiar. Fresh green peppers, tomatoes, and onions were in a pleasant tomato sauce in which chicken was cooked, or at least heated. Casa Modena’s was served in a bowl. The contents were hot. But where was the chicken? Finally I found a single small drumstick. $21.
Salmon in lemon sauce, my wife’s choice, was a good-sized piece of well-cooked fish, but there was no lemon in the lemon sauce! It was semitransparent, slightly brown, thickened, and without acidity or flavor. My wife called it “glop”, scraped it off, and enjoyed the fish. She loves potatoes but refused to eat the accompanying mushy and oily roasted potatoes. $22.
Although some of the faults of our meal may be laid at the feet of the substitute chef, others are likely endemic. This restaurant is only 7 minutes from home and is accessible even at trafficky times, but I doubt that we will return.