Chichen Itza

Cochinita is better. The Kibis are better. The panuchos are better. Even the pickled onions are better. As you noted, the also have Chirmole with a proper but. CI is very good, obvious the dining experience is a bit better. But overall for the taste and layers of flavor that I grew up with, FdY is more like home.

–Dommy!

I don’t suppose you can describe what “better” means in this context (as opposed to preference)? I don’t mean this in a snotty way…I’m a WASPY mofo so I have no legs to stand on, but when you say FdY tastes like home, does that mean you grew up in the Yucatan?

What do you think of el Faisan y el Venado?

Yes. Born here. Summers there.

Haven’t been. They don’t have Kibis on the menu and everytime I’m the area, not in the mood. Yucatecan is rather a complex and can be a heavier food (especially the way most places serve it, it doesn’t have to be that way at all) so we tend to make it home, which just happens to be right by FdY and CI.

–Dommy!

They do, spelled “kivis”. I haven’t been, though.

Kivis!! omg. What a bad sign.

–Dommy!

Being a non-Spanish speaker, I hope this isn’t a stupid question, but I’ve seen certain words have alternate spellings, like ceviche and cebiche. Is the fact that a place spells it kivis instead of kibis a potential indicator that it’s not going to be authentic or good?

I have never in my extensive travels in the Yucatan, including Quintana Roo and Campeche have NEVER seen seen it spelled that way. We take our Kibis VERY seriously (Now there are even Kibi centric restaurants). I understand maybe spelling it the Lebanese way (Which is where they come front) but to me this seems like a place that was opened up by Yucatecan Ex-Pats which might be a bit removed from the culinary traditions. (Which accounts for most Mexican restaurants owners, a good taquero and restaurant owning family can do very well in Mexico, especially Yucatan, so they tend to stay put). A good Kibi takes a certain touch (It’s not just deep frying a meatball). The ones at CI are atrocious because of it. I’ll probably still give them a try, but expectations are definitely lowered.

–Dommy!

Oh, c’mon.

Live a little.

Haven’t you ever had “flied rice” at Chinese restaurants …

That said, I would never order, much less eat, “fried mice” … even if it was a misspelling.

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What should a good kibi taste like exactly?

One morning in 2007 when Dommy, her primos & I were on the road to Chichen Itza (the real one), we stopped for gas at a 7-11 just outside of Merida. There was an older woman who seemed to appear out of nowhere will a large plastic container filled with Kibis. The were like a fist-sized plastic football. the exterior was a crispy shell of bulgur with a meat/spice/bulger filling. She split it and filled it with a spicy curtido. it was one of the most wonderfull things I’ve ever eaten. Unfortunately the ones I’ve sought out at Yucatecan places seem to have the shape and texture of a hockey puck. the one in LA I’ve found which is sort of in the ballpark is the fried Kibbeh at Almaza on Venice at National.

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Great food tale.

I loved the food all along the Ruta Puuc when we trekked it a while back…

Despite Chichen Itza not passing muster here, I still quite enjoy it. There is no finer salsa in all of LA than the grilled habanero to my palate. Their specials are also getting more adventurous with whole fish, relleno negro, and taco arabes.

I was there mainly to fill a craving for cochinita pibil and plantains topped with the magical grilled habanero salsa, so not too thrilling of a trip, but photos for those interested:

Juicy, fragrant, porcine bliss spiked with pickled onions.

Excellent simple beans and rice:

Perfectly grilled plantains with a crispness and bit of char that makes them irresistable:

Fresh tortillas, which feel like they are being made out of better masa than in the past. More intense corn flavor, and have chew to them whereas I recall they used to be a bit drier in the past and tear easier, really great:

Weekend-only relleno negro special. This was pretty interesting. Huge pork meatballs with a hardboiled egg inside plus a hodgepodge of fresh turkey meat. The meatballs almost seemed to taste of rosemary, and the turkey was sort of plain and not exorbitantly seasoned, but quite juicy and tender. The black broth was very thick and flavorful, though quite mild. It is a surprisingly “American” tasting dish, almost reminds me of Thanksgiving dinners in its flavor profile. Nice when amped up with some salsa and tortillas, or good by itself in a sense. Not mind-blowing, but certainly intriguing at the very least:

Bottle of magic sauce:

My favorite horchata in LA, not too sweet, thick, yet not overly viscous:

The presentation, execution, and flavors continue to feel at least a level or two above the price point. I believe Chichen Itza will always be one of my favorite places to dine in LA, even if other places do things better. No one has that salsa as far as I can tell.

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I’ve yet to find better panuchos. And that whole octopus that you need to order in advance has no equal as far as I know.

Popped in for some Sopa de Lima the other day. One of my favorite soups in LA. Simple, bright, savory broth with lovely turkey and snappy tortilla strips. Punched up with their boiled habanero sauce, it is truly a thing of beauty for only about $6.50.

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I need to re-visit.

Only had the pibil. I was expecting some sour/citrus. I was underwhelm or maybe I don’t understand the dish/cuisine.

My girlfriend was fighting a cold last week and craving soup, and we ended up having this for the first time - it was outstanding, as you say, simple, clean, and delicious. I also added a bit of habanero salsa at the end, but I actually regretted it. Much as I love habaneros, I thought it overwhelmed the mild broth.

The longaniza and pibil tacos were also excellent, as usual. I don’t think I’d call Chichen Itza underrated considering the general acclaim it gets and its position on the Gold list and everything, but I know that I often forget about it.

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Did you add the boiled salsa or the grilled?

One’s spice tolerance may dictate whether it is overwhelming or merely accentuating to the broth I feel. My spice tolerance happens to be ridiculously high by normal standards, so, YMMV.

But the soup doesn’t need the salsa to be good either.

You know, come to think of it it was probably the grilled. My spice tolerance is decent, though not heroic, so that could certainly have been part of it. Either way, great soup, great restaurant.

I’m probably about due for another visit, maybe with a tire shop bang bang.

Or has anyone ever tried the al pastor specialist right next to it, Vista Hermosa?

Well, although the grilled habanero salsa there may be my favorite salsa ever, it has its uses, and I agree that it is too overpowering for the soup. The boiled habanero salsa complements the soup much better as it has a more mild flavor profile and a more watery consistency that allows it to meld with the soup.

Where is Vista Hermosa in the Mercado? I am not sure how I overlooked it, probably too focused on CI whenever I am in there. Handmade tortillas with al pastor sure does sound nice.

I highly recommend the Sundays only lechon. You can get tacos for $1.50, or a plate with .5 pounds of lechon and some beans, rice, and tortillas for 14.50. But the real steal is the $5 dollar lechon torta. Wonderful bread, lechon, and a piece of chicharron. Throw some habanero salsa on top and you got yourself a really solid and affordable lunch.

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