Exquisite Kappo Cuisine Arrives in L.A. - Welcome to Shibumi [Thoughts + Pics]

Update 4:

It had been awhile since we last stopped by Shibumi, but we were curious how Chef-Owner David Schlosser’s Japanese eatery was coming along these days. The interior space is still about the same as before, dark, moody, and with some soft lighting falling across the gorgeous wood bar, carved out of 400 year-old Cypress.

Chef Schlosser greets us warmly and we see that Shibumi’s menu now has a Beverage Omakase and three options for Food Omakase.

Born - Muroka Nama Genshu - Junmai Daiginjo Sake (Fukui, Japan):

We’ve always enjoyed the Born lineup of Sake, but this is the first time we saw a Special Limited version of Born in a Muroka Nama Genshu! (@beefnoguy @Sgee @BradFord @TheCookie) We were surprised. Taking a sip: It is lively, funky! But not as big of a party in your mouth as the Shichida Spring Muroka Nama Genshu the past 2 years. :slight_smile: Still, this was tasty and a great way to start the evening! :blush:

Chinmi (Rare Delicacies) - Round 1:

Karasumi (Dried Mullet Roe), Aged 1 Month:

A wonderful, super-concentrated oceanic wave hits you with this Chinmi of Karasumi (Dried Mullet Roe) that Chef David ages for 1 month. :blush:

Shrimp and Shrimp Eggs, Aged 2 Months:

And then the 2nd new Chinmi we tried this evening, Shrimp and Shrimp Eggs that have been aged and fermented for 2 months(!). :open_mouth: This was incredible for the funky, bold depth of flavor. This wasn’t like, say, Blue Cheese or anything in that direction, but there was a great, pleasing backnote of flavor that we haven’t had outside of Shibumi. And it was a great pairing with the Born Muroka Nama Genshu Sake! (@beefnoguy) :heart:

The fresh Daikon Radish slices were a great foil to each Chinmi as well, as a nice palate cleanser.

Grilled House-Dried Squid (Fermented Plum Paste, Mayo):

Great drinking food, a chewy, but still tender enough bite of their Grilled House-Dried Squid, but I liked it even more with the Fermented Plum Paste. The Mayo is a more mellow, fun option if you prefer that flavor mix.

Dewazakura - Oka - Ginjo Sake (Yamagata, Japan):

Dewazakura is pretty common around L.A., but it was still a nice Sake to have as the courses changed. The Oka is definitely more refined, cleaner finish with a nice floral component.

Tako Sashimi - Octopus (Hokkaido, Japan) + Umibudo (Sea Grapes):

Pleasingly tender Octopus Sashimi, with some chew, paired with some Umibudo (Sea Grapes). It was fine, a nice change from the courses so far.

Hagatsuo - Striped Bonito - Smoked in Hay (Nagasaki, Japan):

The smokiness was very subtle, but it was still a nice additional layer for the Hagatsuo itself. This held up well with the Dewazakura Oka Ginjo Sake.

Aizu - Chujou - Tokubetsu Honjozou Sake (Fukushima, Japan):

The Aizu Chujou Tokubetsu Honjozou had bigger flavors, not wild like a Muroka Nama Genshu, but it was bolder, with an almost sweetness and not as clean finishing as is my preference, but it was tasty. It also was a nice pairing with our next course, and held up well.

Spinach Marinated in Monk’s Broth, Black Sesame Tofu Sauce:

There was real Kurogoma (Black Sesame) flavors here, definitely something @paranoidgarliclover could appreciate. :slight_smile: The Spinach had a good dashi infusion, was tender and the dish worked as a nice way to enjoy your veggies and pair it with Sake, too. :wink:

Amabuki - Ichigo (Strawberry) - Nama Junmai Ginjo Sake (Saga, Japan):

We’ve had the Amabuki Ichigo (Strawberry) Sake before at Aburiya Raku, but at the time, it didn’t grab us as much as we though it might (I love Strawberries in general). For this 2nd taste, there is a hint of Strawberry, but nothing artificial or “fusion-y” to make it feel like this is some crazy wine cooler or something. :wink: It was fruity, but still held up tasting like a solid, enjoyable Nama Junmai Ginjo Sake.

Unagi Tempura:

This was fine. The Tempura frying skills in the back kitchen were OK, but didn’t approach Inaba’s Tempura while sitting at their Tempura Bar.

Tamagawa - Red Label - Yamahai Muroka Nama Genshu - Junmai Sake (Kyoto, Japan):

This was different from the other Muroka (Unfiltered) Nama Genshu Sake that we’ve had, also another big flavor bomb, but I didn’t think it was as fun or lively as Shichida or Born. But Chef David recommended this to us in preparation for our next course.

Chinmi (Rare Delicacies) - Round 2 - Maguro (Tuna), Aged 5 Months:

This was interesting and a bit fun in a “curious, science experiment” type of way: What happens to Maguro (Tuna) if you age it 5 months? What does it taste like? :slight_smile:

Chef David’s Chinmi selection of things he’s aging and fermenting never ceases to amaze us (this is absolutely one of the strongest points about Shibumi - no one in L.A. is doing stuff like this, to this level). The 5 Month Aged Maguro is very firm. Almost Fish Jerky-like, but with a better flavor profile. It was brushed with another Aged Sauce (I forgot), there was a sweetness, a salty, lightly briny taste. It was a nice pairing with the Sake, but on its own, this was one that didn’t seem as interesting taste-wise as the other Chinmi we’ve had.

Ginseng Miso Soup:

Delicious! This was delicate, a nice Ginseng note that didn’t overpower the Housemade Miso Soup. :slight_smile:

Matassa Cuvée Marguerite 2017 (France):

This was an interesting break, as Chef David felt this Matassa Cuvée Marguerite 2017 would go well with our next course. Apricot, fruity notes, an almost honey-like backnote as well.

Grilled Red Koji Duck (Simmered Daikon):

The Red Koji added a nice, savory, nuanced flavor to the Duck meat. And while this is clearly a Grilled Duck dish, the lack of crispiness on the Duck skin made it feel like it was something missing.

The Simmered Daikon was nice.

Shichi Hon Yari - Junmai Hiyaoroshi Sake (Shiga, Japan):

Chimaki (Beef Shin, Chestnuts, Sweet Potato, Wrapped in Bamboo Husk):

This was pretty good, with the Bamboo Husk being grilled over open flame to yield a light smokiness to the Rice. However the combination of Chestnut and Sweet Potato gave this dish maybe a bit too much of a sweet, nutty facet, that made it taste like a Dessert at times.

Chinmi - Round 3 - Yubeshi (Miso, Walnuts, Yuzu Fruit), Aged 1 Year:

Chef Schlosser makes his own Yubeshi, grinding up Walnuts, Yuzu Fruit and his own Miso, then aging it for over 1 Year(!). This is concentrated, potent earthy, nuttiness, with a savory and sweet angle. Quite tasty and a nice pairing with our final Sake. :slight_smile:

We were about done, but the bar manager started chatting it up with our friend (who’s a big Whisky fan), and shows off a few bottles, talking about each one.

Ichiro’s Malt - Chichibu - Port Pipe - Japanese Single Malt Whisky:

This was the only one I tried, and it was very smooth and seductive. :slight_smile: A really nice way to slowly sip away the evening.

At this point Shibumi feels like a place to enjoy some of Chef David Schlosser’s rare Chinmi creations, these little bites of aged or fermented delicacies, that are a great pairing with certain types of Sake. Shibumi also makes it a point to bring in a bunch of Seasonal Sake (a few years ago they were one of the few L.A. restaurants to get in the Shichida Spring Limited Edition Muroka Nama Genshu).

Shibumi is still one of the very few restaurants in the U.S. to serve true Kobe Beef (from Kobe, Japan), but we’ve found when trying it side-by-side with A5 Wagyu Beef (from Miyazaki, Japan) that he also carries, that the A5 Wagyu was close enough and only half the price. There are some other standouts that appear from time-to-time, but also some dishes that fall into the simply “OK / good, not great” category as well.

But the key is to get a seat in front of Chef Schlosser, start a conversation and ask the Chef questions and listen to some fascinating stories of how he prepares certain dishes, or him talk about his training and time in Japan.

Shibumi
815 S. Hill Street
Los Angeles, CA 90014
Tel: (213) 265-7923

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