Forget About Dinner - The Surprisingly Delicious Japanese Italian American Brunch at Orso & Winston [Thoughts + Pics]

Chef Joseph Centeno’s restaurant efforts have elicited mixed reviews over the years. From Lazy Ox, Ledlow, P.Y.T., to Bar Ama and Baco Mercat, we had never found any of the restaurants to be runaway hits. When we finally tried Orsa & Winston (Chef Centeno’s fine dining restaurant) for their Tasting Menu Only Dinner, it was really disappointing.

However, we had recently heard that Orsa & Winston was starting up Brunch (which in and of itself might not be noteworthy), until we glanced at the menu and noticed that there were some really intriguing Japanese-inspired Breakfast & Brunch items, so we decided to give it a shot.

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Orsa & Winston is a tiny space, with only a few tables, and for Brunch, the sunny daytime period added a cheerful flood of light to an otherwise dim restaurant by night.

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Glancing over the menu, it’s heavily inflected with Japanese influences, sauces, or straight up recreations of Japanese classic dishes. There are a few Italian inspired dishes as well, and some American Breakfast staples.

We had heard from a friend that their Pastries were very good, and remembering the solid offerings at Ledlow (before they shuttered), we were excited to see what their Pastry Chef had created for Orsa & Winston’s Brunch.

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Cream Cheese & Matcha Croissant:

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This sounded wild and interesting. It was flaky with a subtle crispiness, but the filling was too wild for our tastes: Imagine salty-tart Cream Cheese mixed with the bitterness and herbal aroma of a massive dose of Matcha Green Tea powder, and you have their Cream Cheese & Matcha Croissant. :frowning:

And I love Matcha, but this was just too overwhelming.

Canele:

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Their Canele was much better: A firm shell on the outside, yielding to a soft, almost buttery-custardy center, with just the right amount of sweetness. Delicious! :blush:

Tuna Tonnato (Shoyu Egg, Pan Rustic):

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Their Shoyu Egg was gorgeous, with the yolk already cracked open on top of the Tuna Tonnato. It was luscious, creamy, and a more thoughtful merging of Italian and Japanese than anything we tried for the disappointing dinner last year. The rustic Housemade Bread was fantastic, nicely toasted and crunchy. :slight_smile:

Baked Eggs in Ume Tomato Sauce:

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Their Baked Eggs is like a cross between a Shakshouka and Shired Eggs with a touch of Japanese influences. Spooning some of the gorgeous orange hued Egg Yolks and the Ume (Japanese Plum) Tomato Sauce on some of their Rustic Bread…

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and you get this wonderful crunch from the perfectly Toasted Handmade Bread, this comforting, happy rush of savory, long-stewed Tomato Sauce with a touch of Ume (which is not overly piquant like Republique’s version was), and then some silky, luscious Egg Yolk and you have a mouthful of awesome! :heart:

This was fantastic! :slight_smile:

It was so promising, that we were glad to return for a 2nd visit soon after:

Green Barley Porridge (Furikake, Poached Egg + Smoked Fish):

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This was definitely in the realm of “California Cuisine” rather than something more explicitly Italian or Japanese in influence. But I was excited, as I’m always looking out for a great, tasty Grain Bowl or Porridge dish. :wink: The Green Barley Porridge was toothsome, lightly nutty and delicately seasoned.

The Poached Egg and Furikake seasoning was perfect with this dish. However the additional Smoked Salmon add-on, while sounding like a winner, turned out to be too salty. :cry: They make their Smoked Salmon in-house (which sounds nice), but sadly it’s just way too salty. Next time, we’ll just enjoy the Green Barley Porridge by itself.

Chicken Katsu Sando (with Milkbread):

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Reading the words “Katsu Sando” (Japanese Cutlet Sandwich) sparked visions of a perfect crispy-crunchy Japanese Cutlet inbetween wonderful Bread like they have in Japan. Orsa & Winston’s version features a Pan-Seared Bread (like a Patty Melt), which gives it an incredible crunch, along with merely OK Chicken Katsu (Cutlets) that weren’t crispy enough.

It was tasty, but their Katsu was nowhere close to the fantastic Cutlets at a specialist like Kagura.

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Their Housemade Potato Chips were lightly crunchy in parts, but a touch soft in others.

O&W Grain Bowl Salad (Tehachapi Grains, Rice, Vegetables) + Chicken Curry:

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The way this dish is presented is a bit of a disservice to the surprise within: The title is simply “O&W Grain Bowl Salad” which doesn’t really sound all that interesting… until we saw the tiny font for additions to the Grain Bowl (Fried Egg or Crudo), and the last addition was “Chicken Curry.”

Which we excitedly asked our server if it was made from scratch in-house or not, and he said it was(!!!). :slight_smile:

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Taking a bite of their Housemade Japanese Chicken Curry, it is a bit looser and not as gloppy as something like Curry House’s mass-produced, MSG-laden affair, but that’s not a bad thing. In fact Orsa & Winston’s Housemade Japanese Curry almost reminded me of the Housemade Curry at Blue Marlin, which was wonderful before they went on downhill alert and closed.

It’s fragrant, delicate, nicely spiced, but not too potent (nothing like an Indian Curry), but the mixture of cooked down farmers market Vegetables and the quality Chicken meat made this one of the best Japanese-style Curries we’ve had in a long time. :blush: And it went great with the healthy Tehachapi Grains & Rice mixture. (@PorkyBelly @bulavinaka @A5KOBE @TheCookie and others interested in Japanese Curries.)

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Their side of Vegetable Salad that came with the dish was very fresh and added a tartness to the rest of the bowl.

Peads & Barnett Pork Toro (Chilies, Shichimi):

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Their Pork Toro was pretty spectacular as well: Fatty and lean, it went perfect with some of the Rice in the Grain Bowl. :slight_smile:

3rd Visit:

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Yuzu Mimosa (Yuzu Juice, Orange Juice, Sparkling Wine):

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This was nicely fizzy and refreshing, but it might’ve been a touch too tart.

Croissant:

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Orsa & Winston’s plain Croissant was very good: Flaky, crisped exterior with a decently soft interior, it was far better than the mediocre one we had at Dominique Ansel Bakery, but not to the level of Chaumont or Arsicault. Still if you were hankering for a good Croissant and were in the area, this one is worth ordering. :slight_smile:

Kouign Amann with Brown Butter:

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Their version of Kouign Amann was good. A touch dry, but it had a distinct crunchiness to it.

Housemade Pickles & Trout Roe (Dashi, Butter, Puffy Bread):

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This sounded wonderful but just didn’t work that well: The “Housemade Pickles & Trout Roe” turned out to be more like a loose Frisee Salad with random chunks of Pickles and a bit of Trout Roe within. It was really tart, but the Housemade Puffy Bread was tasty and helped to even things out a bit.

Grain Pancakes (Maple Syrup, Butter):

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If there was a menu item that seemed the most underwhelming by name alone, it might have to be their “Grain Pancakes.” Even the description is lacking (“Maple Syrup, Butter”). But don’t let that fool you:

These have to be some of the best Pancakes I’ve had in years! :heart:

There’s a slight seared crust, yielding to a soft, moist, fluffy interior. I have mentally blocked out how much Butter, Maple Syrup and Powdered Sugar is on here, but suffice to say it never became too sweet. It was just SO GOOD! :blush:

Satsuki Rice Porridge (Uni, Abalone, Scallop, Chowder, Pecorino):

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And we finally get to the Satsuki Rice Porridge. First, I’ve been dreaming of trying this mystical amazing Rice Porridge at Orsa & Winston (known as the “Okayu Rice Porridge” when @PorkyBelly first raved about it) for a long time now. It was a course served only during their Dinner Tasting Menu, and when we finally went, it was removed from the menu. :cry: Then the replacement “Rice Porridge” was a small bite of rather basic flavors, and nothing like what @PorkyBelly got.

So when we saw their new Brunch dish (always on the menu) called “Satsuki Rice Porridge” and it featured Uni, Abalone, and Scallops? It was a must order! :slight_smile:

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Taking a bite…

Seriously.

I don’t know if this is what @PorkyBelly got for the Okayu Rice, but whatever this is, it is an outstanding dish, and one of the best bites I’ve had this year! :heart:

Wonderfully cooked Satsuki Rice Porridge, with a texture that isn’t overly mushy and where you can still appreciate the individual Rice grains, fresh, bright, vibrant Uni, Abalone and Scallops, and this amazing lightly creamy, mouth-watering Chowder & Pecorino Sauce.

My favorite item on the menu! :blush: Must order! :slight_smile:

Donabe (Dashi Broth, Wagyu Beef, Market Vegetables, Tofu, Mushroom, Nori, Egg):

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First, the flaw: Like their Dinner serving, the Orsa & Winston staff have shaved the Japanese Wagyu Beef way too thin. It looks nice, but when you try to pick it up, it’s so thin, it tears instantly, making it very hard to get a full slice to cook in the Donabe (like a Shabu Shabu experience).

But outside of that, the actual Donabe flavors were very good: It was wonderfully delicate and subtle, warming, and balanced (not too salty). I loved sipping the balanced broth and enjoying some of the tender cooked down Market Vegetables, some Tofu and Mushrooms. :slight_smile:

It’s a really strange experience: In all 3 Brunch visits, Chef Centeno was nowhere to be found. Instead his staff for Brunch was executing inspired and interesting dishes that actually merged some Japanese and Italian influences together (which is what Orsa & Winston’s goal was (as stated on their website)), unlike the disastrous Tasting Menu Dinner we had there (which lacked any understanding of Japanese or Italian merging in a successful dish and Chef Centeno was there cooking that night).

Whatever’s happened, the end result is that Orsa & Winston’s Weekend Brunch is the type of cooking we had hoped that their Dinner Tasting Menus had: Japanese and Italian influenced creations that sing with an inspired vibrancy of flavors. Is it Japanese? Italian? or American?

Whatever it is, it’s delicious: We’ll be back to enjoy their Canele and Croissant Pastries, the tasty Japanese Chicken Curry with Tehachapi Grains & Rice, but especially their amazing Grain Pancakes (seriously awesome), and the even more stunning Satsuki Rice Porridge (with Uni, Abalone and Scallops). :blush:

(Weekend Brunch Menu - Saturday & Sundays.)

Orsa & Winston
122 W 4th Street
Los Angeles, CA 90013
Tel: (213) 687-0300

http://www.orsaandwinston.com/home/

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wow, that looks very similar to what i got at dinner except mine also had geoduck, it was described as “satsuki okayu - santa barbara uni, hokkaido scallops, geoduck, abalone, koshihikari rice”. and that rice is from none other than chef Morihiro Onodera. i’m glad you finally got to try it. i had no idea they served it for brunch, i’ll be paying a visit really soon, thanks for the tip @Chowseeker1999. great report as always.

i also want to try the omakase japanese breakfast on the menu too.

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I think the shrimp katsu sandwich may be better than the chicken here. Regardless, it is an outstanding restaurant.

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Thanks @PorkyBelly. :slight_smile: It was your reports on the rice dish that made me want to go in the first place. :wink:

Oh for the “Omakase Japanese breakfast,” while it sounds interesting, our server told us it’s just a series of smaller portions of existing dishes on the menu. So given that, we just tried most of the dishes over the course of a few visits. Maybe they’ll change it and serve new items not on the menu in the future?

Hopefully you like the Satsuki Rice Porridge; let me know if that’s similar to what you had, except in a bigger portion! :slight_smile:

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Tuna tonnato was a piece of poached? tuna with tuna sauce?

Hi @robert,

Their version was cooked (I think roasted) and then pureed with the sauce, so it was spreadable on the bread.

This looks and sounds great @Chowseeker1999! Did I read somewhere that some of the best Italian food in the world (outside Italy) can be found in japan? :thinking:

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What a fantastic report!

Thanks @TheCookie. :slight_smile: Hopefully you get a chance to try their brunch sometime. I think you’d like some of the dishes a lot. :wink:

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Thanks @RedDevil. If you get a chance and try the brunch, please report back.

In my book, some of the best ___________ in the world (outside its country of origin) can be found in Japan.

Things that can go in the __________ are things like Italian food, whisky, Argentine tango, and French food…

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Hi @TheCookie,

Oh and for that part of your question I defer to @J_L @ipsedixit and other ballers that have tried Italian in enough countries to evaluate. :wink:

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America

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Yep, it’s in our blood. Red sauce was the first thing I learned to cook (bacon & eggs don’t count)… and I was eight yrs old.

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Finally made it to brunch and had a great meal, thanks for the rec @Chowseeker1999.

canele de bordeaux
Outstanding. Thick, crisp, caramelized crust with a perfectly soft, vanilla-y center. Textbook.

kouign amann with brown butter
This was okay, kind of dry, would skip next time and get more caneles.

cured anchovy toast, calabrian chiles, sesame
Fantastic. Love this new trend of anchovy toast #fuckavocados


peaches, creme fraiche, ao nori
Nicely grilled and charred peaches and well dressed salad.

the ‘bear & winston’ - fried eggs, rosti potato, peads & barnetts bacon, yuzu kosho kick sauce
Star of the show was definitely the roati potato, crispy, crunchy, delicous.

satsuki rice porridge - lobster, abalone, scallop, smoked fish, geoduck, shiitake, chowder, pecorino
Wow, just as good (maybe slightly less creamier) as the version I had at dinner. They were out of uni so they subbed lobster and geoduck. I didn’t complain. Fun fact, the seafood was so fresh if you placed your ear near the plate you’d hear this

bang at friends & family for blueberry ice cream
Get this.

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And just when I thought it was safe to go back in the water…

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Hi @PorkyBelly,

Nice! Great report and so glad you liked Brunch. Wasn’t it just tasty? :slight_smile: Thanks for the reminder for the Satsuki Rice Porridge (I loved that dish) and glad to hear it’s pretty much the same as the great dinner version you were raving about before. :blush: (And this is a larger portion to enjoy, right?) :wink:

I need to go back for some more of that soon.

And LOL at the SFX when you listen closely to the plate! :grin:

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A very good but expensive lunch at $50/person before tip for 4 items.


persimmons, burrata, radicchio, pomegranate, hazelnut
This refreshing salad is lightly dressed with a sweet and sour vinaigrette. There’s a good mix of salinity and creaminess from burrata contrasting against the crunchy hazelnut, bitter raddicchio, and pops of sweetness from the pomegranate .


dashi broth, a5 wagyu beef, market vegetables, tofu, mushroom, nori, egg
The broth has excellent depth of flavor especially with some of the wagyu fat rendered. However I do wish the wagyu shavings are a touch thicker for a more enjoyable texture.


satsuki rice porridge, scallop, uni, smoked salmon roe, chowder, pecorino
The porridge texture is basically a cross between risotto and porridge. On the other hand, the pristine trio of smoked roes, seared scallop and uni are slightly overpowered by the richness of the porridge. I also noticed that the restaurant is now skimping on additional seafood while charging $38 a pop!


souffle pancake, lemon curd, whipped cream, raspberry, graham crumble
These pancakes aren’t the usual jiggly kind that have now become common. It’s more like a cross between cake and souffle but still very enjoyable nonetheless.

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Thanks @moonboy403 for the great report and pics!

We just went recently as well (I haven’t been able to write it up yet), but had the same experience as you with the Satsuki Rice Porridge (disappointing for the increased price and less seafood). Glad you liked the A5 Wagyu and Dashi Broth (and agree with you about their Beef slices). :slight_smile:

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