I know, I know, we hate lists however I think this is a fun one - Eater LA Hypothetical Michelin List. And we’ll probably have a ball critiquing Matthew’s list.
My thoughts
Shunji - probably needs to go a notch down. Some of the chefs have really dismal knife skills. Can be a very inconsistent experience if you don’t have Shunji,
Why no love for Mori? At least 1 or 2 stars.
Lots of 1 stars probably need to be removed. They’re good but just don’t think they are star worthy. (only listing one’s I’ve been to) i.e. Lukshon, Rustic Canyon, Night & Market, Kiyokawa
Three stars:
Urasawa
Two stars:
Spago
Shunji
N/Naka
Melisse
Q (sushi)
Maude
One star:
Providence
Trois Mec
Redbird
Rustic Canyon
The Tasting Kitchen
Taco Maria
Sotto
Ink
Bestia
Animal
Republique
Night + Market Song
Orsa & Winston
Chi Spacca
Lukshon
Cut
Kiyokawa
Le Comptoir
The Bazaar
Kiriko
Sushi Park
Sushi Zo
The Gadarene Swine
Nozawa Bar
Agree. Mori not on the list and Melisse as 2* and Providence as 1* is a non starter. Might as well be a random list of someone’s preference. Oh wait, it is.
If the list were written using the same standards as the SF list, there’s no way Animal, Bestia, Chi Spacca, or Rustic Canyon would get a star. It pretty much has to be either fussy-Frenchy or Japanese. Maybe Shunji though it’s probably not formal enough to make the cut. I haven’t been to the rest.
I think LA’s lucky not to have Michelin encouraging chefs to go in stupid directions. Its influence on the SF scene seems pernicious to me.
I seriously have no concept of what would and would not deserve a star in LA. Michelin is so damn random with what they consider star worthy… Some of the NYC places with stars are ridiculous…
In concept the 3 * really should blow your socks off foodwise; wave after wave of WOWs throughout the meal. 2 and 1 * should just fall a few notches, like the crescendo leading up to the 3*. In reality probably not the case with the actual ratings awarded. I think a number of the 1* on the list don’t meet that definition in my book, at least compared to some of the “official” 1* joints I’ve dined in.
One of the positives for me at least with the rating system is that it lends itself to a restaurant scene which cranks out ridiculously complex dishes almost impossible to re-create at home. I’d personally would like more of these options here in LA… tired of the proliferation of overpriced small plate joints served up by surly hipsters.
This list is waaaaaaaaaaaay too generous. No way the stuffy frenchies would give stars to even half of these restaurants. Back when LA did have a Michelin guide, there were only a handful of restaurants with stars.
Langer’s pastrami worthy of at least 1* methinks - definitely a wow & a holy S***t moment my first bite. That close up pic is a fine example of food porn
But even in France this is not the case. At least 50% is just decor and the service (regardless of what their formula says). Of the 3 stars I’ve been to, it’s probably never more than 50% wow. More like 25-50% impressive dishes.
I agree with Robert on this one. You may be tired of the overpriced small plates concept but that’s better than the $400+ pp before alcohol ($300 wine pairing), tax, tip places like Saison and Benu.
I think Langer’s would get a Bib Gourmand rating, not a star.
There was a time when I thought Shiro would be worthy of a star. Don’t feel that way anymore.
But they’ve become so arbitrary and random with stars in NYC and SF. I’ve dined at a number of starred ethnic restaurants that would simply be considered average in LA. Kin Khao in SF is a much worse Night Market. Somtum Der in NYC is a good Isaan spot, Michelin worthy, I have no idea. Casa Enrique in NYC is a mediocre Mexican spot. If Michelin really thinks places like that deserve stars, then there really could be at least 10 (if not more) ethnic LA spots that could warrant stars.
one star: “A very good restaurant in its category” (“Une très bonne table dans sa catégorie”)
two stars: “Excellent cooking, worth a detour” (“Table excellente, mérite un détour”)
three stars: “Exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey” (“Une des meilleures tables, vaut le voyage”)
The stars are supposed to be only about the food, but in SF nothing but >$200 tasting menus can get more than one star. That’s the only kind of food worth a detour in the Bay Area? Salope, s’il vous plaît.
For one star, the bar is much lower for French and French-influenced places. No straight-up Italian place can get a star.
In some other cities they give stars to a wider variety of places.
