Ugh i have been trying to get into them but fear the lack of a good hotel concierge will doom me. i even had amex platinum try to help me out to no avail.
Did you get the resy through a hotel?
Ugh i have been trying to get into them but fear the lack of a good hotel concierge will doom me. i even had amex platinum try to help me out to no avail.
Did you get the resy through a hotel?
Yes. But that was pre-pandanmic.
For Ishikawa, they have switched to Omakase. Unfortunately I have never seen an open spot on there. I remember reading on some random corner of the internet that I cannot easily dig up where they actually have a phone line for the whole restaurant group with support for English speakers. They list the 050-3138-5225 number for multiple restaurants in the group which to my mind adds credence to this. I think in the post I found somebody had used the number to call in and were able to making a booking. It might be worth a shot if hotel concierge doesn’t work. I’ve been to Ishikawa as well and thought it was awesome, though I haven’t been to Goryu Kubo yet.
As to cost, some of the ultra expensive (400-600+) stuff I understand is related to using ultra premium ingredients. For example, during crab season it’s not just a certain type of crab, but also from a specific area, and then with specific features. I’ll refer to this older post on Goryu Kubo where the number of black circles on the crab is apparently a sign of quality where more is better. [Tokyo] Goryukubo (Nishi Azabu) 2 Michelin star kappo kaiseki heaven. Goryu Kubo I recall hearing before is that sort of restaurant. He tries to use the best and that’s built into the cost. I don’t think that’s the case for every place though. A rich foodie I follow on Instagram does occasionally note when an expensive place doesn’t have the best cost performance.
Personally, I’m not sure I have the palate or experience to appreciate the use of the very best ingredients so I historically have passed on such experiences, though after re-reading those GK reviews I’ll probably have to try to fit that in eventually. Of the three, I’m guessing that Ishikawa is the hardest resy so you could always keep the others as backups?
Adding a little to the ryokan discussion earlier in the thread:
I also agree that the Kaiseki dinners at Ryokan have, in my experience, not been comparable to stand-alone restaurant Kaiseki, though they can be fun. Went to a bunch of ryokan in Kyushu as part of a (very good) tour package and while they were good only one got kind of close to what I had in Tokyo. I actually did enjoy my meals at Yumotokan quite a bit but it was basically before I got more into food so I didn’t have much to compare to at the time.
There are apparently ryokan that might serve food on the same level as stand-alone restaurants but I think you have to go out of your way for that and will likely pay quite a bit for the experience. For example, one place I’ve been eyeing is a restaurant named Sower attached to a hotel in North Lake Biwa called L’Hotel du Lac. Very out of the way but the restaurant seems very interesting. Another more accessible example in Nara (especially since Nara is another typical recommendation for Kyoto/Osaka day trips) is Fufu Nara. Apparently good food but springing $600-800 for that and the hotel is definitely outside my budget.
Gah, thanks for the number. This time, nobody picked up, but I’ll keep giving it a shot. Also might naively try to leave a voicemail asking if there is any availability at Ishikawa. That is sort of what I figured regarding Goryu Kubo; I too feel like I probably don’t have the knowledge to really appreciate the finer ingredients so might have to be a pass on this trip.
Earlier, you mentioned that you were doing research for another Kyoto trip. Anything feel like a must-do for you? Currently, I have these on the itinerary, though I’ll probably cut one!
Jiki Miyazawa: kaiseki lunch Jiki Miyazawa – Kyoto - a MICHELIN Guide Restaurant
Monk: chef’s table pizza omakase (wtf)
Kiyama: absurdly high-rated kaiseki spot. a tad worried it will be too austere for me though. Kiyama | Restaurant Reservation Service in Japan - TABLEALL
Ryo Sho: Ryō-shō – Kyoto - a MICHELIN Guide Restaurant they got two stars their first year open. thought it looked kinda interesting, mainly because there seem to be some French inflection, which I thought might work for my un-educated kaiseki palate lol. too new for a tabelog score…
This is probably also kaiseki overkill, so I might add a sushi meal. If so, it would probably be this because to make things even more difficult, I’m traveling in a party of 4, so counter resys have been a struggle.
Sushi Gion Matsudaya
Hopefully it works for you! That way I can use it for Ishikawa or Kohaku maybe next time haha.
For Kyoto, my only must is Kiyama; it’ll be my second shot at Kaiseki in Kyoto instead of my first haha. I think I was also inspired by this thread to check out Monk. Honestly I’m more planning a Kyoto trip for the fall foliage and since that’s end of November/early December I haven’t thought too much more. Other things I’m considering food-wise are more casual, like wagashi, desserts, a different tofu-focused place, etc. Nothing crazy yet.
I mentioned Sower previously because I’m seriously considering a detour just to check it out. I’ve liked the area since my first visit and the restaurant’s head chef has an interesting background.
If a counter is the goal then I think a party of 4 can definitely make things tough. Ishikawa I remember being a pretty small counter, though they have a ton of private rooms. If you want to bring everyone I can see that being incredibly difficult for that one in particular. Conversely, a party of 4 can make certain places easier. Mostly thinking the French/Japanese/modern Kaiseki type like Florilege, Narisawa, etc.
Personally I approve of Kaiseki overkill! I’m pretty much 90% done planning for my May trip and I’m fairly certain I’m replacing my only full sushi omakase dinner while keeping my 4 Kaiseki places LOL.
Just throwin it out there for those seeking a good ryokan + kaiseki combo in Kyoto. A ryokan style establishment with on site catering by Ogata. I don’t think it’s cheap…
I’m super overdue for photos and a writeup - just been super busy!
Will start with Photos to flesh out last write up
Thick-cut gyutan
Marinated Lean Beef + Seafood [Scallop, Crab, and Spot Prawns I believe]
Chanja, Marinated Cod Innards
Potato Salad with Smoked Egg
Beef Tenderloin Katsu Sando
Zabuton/Denver Steak, Sukiyaki Style
Sirloin
All in for both places was $25/person total, absolute insanity QPR.
dried oyster dashi shoyu ramen
Won’t upload the whole omakase but a few highlight courses. Highly highly recommend going if you can get a res. Absolutely incredible and attentive service, as I’m writing about it 3+ weeks later, still one of the top meals of the trip.
Awesome pickled persimmon
Overall, Osaka was very “meh” to me. Most of Dotonbori was underwhelming. Street food sucks [especially coming straight from Taiwan, where its IMO many leagues better than Japan]
Tempura Cauliflower with Shaved Lamb Heart
Caramelized Sweetbread [I assume veal], yeast and chrysanthemum foam
Fried Chicken, Fermented Cabbage, Chili Powder
Scallop in Green Coconut Curry + Waffle
Bincho Seared Chicken Breast, Jerusalem Artichoke Puree, Truffle
Tofu Ice Cream, Brown Sugar, Fig Leaf Oil & Fresh Mikan
Tomato & Shrimp Bisque Tsukemen
on the nose, smells like Vietnamese Bun Rieu;
thick chewy noodles, delicious simply mixing with the pesto but some real alchemy happens when you have it all together. Really solid!
Saikyo Miso Cod Tsukemen
Tastes like they took the very popular dish of saikyo miso, sake, and cod and blitz it all into a Tsukemen broth
Fortified with a ton of chicken thigh Chashu
It’s bitter, sweet, creamy, oceanic [can be strong for some] and feels a lot heavier than the tomato and shrimp bisque Tsukemen
Shrimp Oil Mazesoba
Highlight pieces
Otoro
Niboshi Special Ramen - 1700Y
Taniya Special Udon 1500Y
Black Sesame Soupless Tantanmen
Nodoguro - 1320Yen/piece so f*cking good, I had 2 pieces
Truly excellent and went with a friend of @formersushichef! That friend had a 20k+ omakase the night before, and Hakkoku was still fresh in my mind. Both of us agreed this was more enjoyable—especially at the price. We had a different chef this time compared to my previous visit, and this chef didn’t alternate the seasonings between Soy for the first piece and then sudachi + salt for the next .
Total damage for each of us was about $80USD
PST is amazing, glad you had a great experience this time around! My friend actually joined FTC,
his username is @Spicyshlomi
[starting a new reply since the previous one was severely lagging from how many photos I uploaded]
Here’s an excerpt from Pocket Concierge
“Globally acclaimed chefs Zaiyu Hasegawa, awarded two stars at his restaurant DEN in Jingumae, and Hiroyasu Kawate, a chef with two stars at neighbouring restaurant Florilège, have collaborated on the theme of “kushi” (skewer) at this hotly-tipped restaurant.”
I could not get a reservation to either Den or Florilege so I figured to try out this concept to get a sense of that these guys [and/or their teams] are cooking.
There are 2 options for lunch - a 6,000 Yen option and a 9,800 Yen option [dinner menu served during lunch]. When I asked the waitress what explains the price difference, she mentioned that the 9800Y course comes with Sashimi and the mochi + caviar course. If I were to come again, I would probably opt for the 6,000 Yen course.
Whatever you do, you must get the Tomato Lemon Sour
@Bagel within the goryu family is sushi shou goryu. Nishiazabu Sushi Sho (鮨祥)'s Reservation - OMAKASE
@Spicyshlomi and I met the sushi chef and the chef who prepares the otsumami, gummy enough at PST.
Shou Goryo, not to be confused with the very famous Sho has some interesting pedigree.
From the sushi spreadsheet:
Apparently the chef that prepares the otsumami comes from Goryo Kubo so maybe a good candidate to try?
And apparently harutaka is of the Jiro school of sushi, so you’d be 2 degrees removed. Quite an ambitious crossover for 33k yen
They were quite fluent in English too so that could add to the experience
Concur.
Thanks for pointing out! It does look quite good… but every time I jump into that spreadsheet I find new sushi places to get interested in.
By the way, awesome posts! I don’t need to hope you’re eating well because I can clearly see it lol. I’m actually replacing the sushi dinner with Caveman thanks to your recommendation and going to probably try to supplement with a trip to Stand up sushi bar Akira, which I’m also planning to check out thanks to your awesome intel.
Narisawa has been tempting me for a long while in this research, but I think it’ll be a pass on this trip, if only because I would like to get a Tokyo kaiseki + a Tokyo counter sushi meal under my belt, and I would like to have a night or two to try to wander into some izakayas, etc.
Tokyo evening itinerary is currently like this:
Saturday: Yoroniku Ebiusu (EBISU YORONIKU - Ebisu/Yakiniku (BBQ Beef) [Tabelog]): Doing this one over the one @jc_eats did simply because it’s walking distance to our hotel! We are doing a 5 pm tasting of their cheapest menu with the intention of being hungry later on and eating elsewhere.
Sunday: Stand-up Sushi Akira: Gonna do a super early dinner here with similar intentions: maybe ramen or yakitori later in the evening.
Monday: Ichita: Would be open to maybe flipping this with something else, but I actually saw a super positive review on here from @beefnoguy ([Tokyo] One Michelin Star Kappo Kaiseki goodness - Ichita (Aoyama)) so I’m sticking with it unless I can get into Ishikawa, I think.
Tuesday: Sushi Zai https://tabelog.com/en/tokyo/A1307/A130703/13233764/: Bookable online, can handle 4 of us at the counter, and receives a B+ on the megalist! Good enough for us, I think.
On a side note, gah, Sower looks really cool. Unfortunately the only available slot they have while I’m down there is in direct conflict with Kiyama, so I’ll be sticking with that, but I might see if anything opens up at Sower for lunch.
I try sometimes to explain how absurd this site is to people who ain’t on said site and I often struggle. Next time I think I’ll just show them these @jc_eats reports. Smh, we have a guy on the ground in Tokyo eating like a madman and often reporting back on a DISH by DISH level. Wtf.
@jc_eats: Let it be known good sir (or madam) that I have diligently been following your posts and will go to at least two of your recommended spots.
Argh, went to the wrong location, ended up at OG spot thinking that’s where Sergio would be stationed. Still can’t complain, huge amaebi salad, pizza + wine - $40 OTD and walk in with no rezzie stresses.
@Jc_eats, enjoying your recap of non-cookie cutter destinations.
Caveman is pretty awesome QPR no doubt. If you happen to be staying in western Tokyo they have a sister restaurant in Meguro called Kabi which I hear is also excellent! I wish there were more Noma-ish/Scandanavian-leaning restaurants in LA
IMO if you manage to strike gold, the perfect day of sushi at Akira would have these 3 elusive menu items all at the same time they’ve only lined up on the days I haven’t visited [they post their daily menu on instagram]
I personally would double up on all of these haha but my preferences may very much be different than yours!
FWIW, I also have this bookmarked and it looks excellent! Good strategy to get a sampler and leave the evening open for more variety
Also in ebisu, is a steak sandwich joint that’s pretty awesome
STABLER Shimokitazawa Meatsand EBISU
I got their 150g sandwich but wish I got the 300g portion; good to share if you’re not traveling alone!
If you have a sweet tooth, I walked by two seemingly popular spots but can’t vouch for how good they are since I haven’t been yet
I also love Daikanyama as a neighborhood which is really nearby Ebisu[less about food but more about the atmosphere and vibes] You picked a great area to stay!
kappo jo - wagyu kappo spot; lunch counter seating early February
Tempura ono booked for early February
sushi komari apparently chef is also a fishmonger and there’s a 16 piece lunch omakase for 8000Y. Booked my res for early February
salmon and trout 13k yen for tasting menu that also includes wine pairing - seems like an insane deal!
organ
+81 3-5941-5388
https://maps.app.goo.gl/wex6ez7ebNkYWgYH8?g_st=ic
European Curry Tomato - apparently the best curry in Japan where people are willing to wait 1+ hour before opening to eat it lol. Some reports of 10+ people being in line before open
+81 3-3393-3262
https://maps.app.goo.gl/8KqtqrP8wBJKiDgFA?g_st=ic
@set0312 Ichita definitely is on my list too. Please report back! I was actually planning to do Sushi Zai because they also apparently have a sake pairing for 11K JPY. Think I’ll just opt to try and hit up sake bars elsewhere to make up for it. The issue with Sower is accessibility. Even if you have a car its a bit of a drive. Without a car, its a minimum 45 minute walk from the nearest train station on areas that aren’t really meant for pedestrians. I checked out the street view and either you’re walking on the lake shore or risking it with the at times one lane road.
@jc_eats I just added Kabi to my list for the future! Noma-ish/Scandanavian-leaning is definitely something I’m interested in so if you have any other suggestions in Tokyo I’m all ears! It definitely does seem like a hole in LA, especially nicer dining. And by that I mean I don’t know any lol (don’t think Habitue counts haha).
When I get Tachigui Akira I might be doing a double dinner that night so a OOE approach is probably going to be my limit.
Please report back on Tomato! Google maps seems to suggest the wait is lower for dinner so maybe that might work better? Space for dinner is always a struggle though… I saw Tomato before and given how far from the city it is opted instead for Bondy - 2nd on the “European curry” category and located in Jimbocho which is fairly central. Bondy was good but don’t think I’ll wait for it again. Thankfully they’re an all-day and last time I went mid-afternoon and there was no line!
The food columnist of the Japan times just posted a top picks list
Some things look interesting to me
Separately might have found my new favorite casual sushi spot spot - revolving sushi spot that specializes in
世田谷区 九州寿司 寿司虎 Aburi Sushi TORA
03-6332-7556
https://maps.app.goo.gl/yYBxnwxPkdC78gXW6?g_st=ic
They do use akazu but more so for color than outright flavor. The shari is definitely solid especially for the price point but say worse than Akira. I ate like a complete clown and it was 8000Yen all in or $62. Absolute insanity. Literally left the restaurant to type this out asap while the iron’s hot.
It’s 7 stops or 17 minutes west of Shibuya Station and tbh while I’ve had it bookmarked and known about this place since before I came, the distance from the city center truly put me off. Super super happy I got to go and I can say for the money, this is the best QPR sushi I’ve had (maybe 20+ casual and omakase spots so far?). I’m going to make an effort to come back before I leave lol
Oo those dessert options look good. I’m also gonna try that Sebastian kakigori spot that somebody (you?) recommended? I think it’s close enough to me. That steak sando looks so tasty.
I am so excited for Akira. Fingers crossed that I get all the goods, but anything will work.
Yes, I’m excited for Daikanyama too!
Btw, you done any cocktail bars? Trying to figure out if it’s worth my time to make reservations at one of the top spots, or if I should just drink lots of whisky sodas and whatnot.