Japan (Tokyo) Nov 2019: Ginza Fujiyama* - A slice of Kyoto Kaiseki in Tokyo

Ginza Fujiyama is a kaiseki restaurant that opened up in Tokyo in March 2019. Subsequently (and after our meal there in November 2019), they acquired a * in the Michelin guide. Chef Takao Fujiyama was worked at Kodaiji Wakuden, a ** kaiseki restaurant in Kyoto, serving a few years as its head chef. Wakuden has had a long lineage of developing fine chefs, most famously Toshiro Ogata of Ogata fame, but also the chefs at Kiyama and Noguchi in Kyoto.

The cuisine leans toward more kaisai style, which means the flavors are more subtle and in line with Kyoto kaiseki restaurants than other Tokyo restaurants. The decor is also eminently Tokyo style, with the LOTR-style small doorways in the room. Apparently, Chef Fujiyama also imports his water from Kyoto for his dashi, among other things. He does not speak much English, but he was extremely friendly, and we were not the only foreigners dining there that evening.

We thought our meal here was spectacular, and my wife liked this meal the most of our 3 kaiseki meals during this trip. I don’t think he will have only * for long, but we will see.

A display of Taizagani or snow crab specifically from Taiza Harbor in the Kyotango area of Kyoto. I have only had taizagani previously at Kimoto. One unusual thing was that we ate crab at Fujiyama, but at the other two kaiseki restaurants, they were still serving fall courses (e.g., matsutake mushroom).

Started with the Sakezuki of Kyoto miso with Uni and Awabe

Seiko kani

Shirako soup with tofu This was their version of the quintessential Tokyo white miso soup and it was delicious and decadent.


Kanburi sashimi

Wife was minimizing raw fish so received cooked buri

Starting the prep of the taizagani

Raw crab legs about to be eaten


Soft tofu with pickled vegetables

The previously referenced Crab Legs cooked Shabu Shabu Style

Broth - unfortunately didn’t take notes, I believe this was tsubagai on this one but really nice


Crab sake (warm) @beefnoguy ever seen this before? It was interesting, but I thought at least a little gimmicky; it was mostly sake tasting with a little bit of crab broth if at all

Grilled taizagani leg


Grilled crab body with brain and ginseng

Soba with mushrooms and yamaimo

Karasumi

Now we had a choice of crab and egg with rice (basically an oyako don with crab) or crab soup, or both. We ordered one of each.

Pickles

Crab soup

Crab rice
This was fantastic!!

Chestnut (drool)

Passion fruit and persimmon

In all, the price was dear, but we each split a whole taiza crab, which I understand to be quite expensive, so we did get “value” for our money. Overall, this restaurant is a great addition to the Tokyo scene, and it is one of a few Kyoto style kaiseki restaurants (along with Miyasaka and Nanzenji Kyoto) that likely saves Tokyoites a 2-3 hour trip to Kyoto.

7 Likes

I always feel that getting the opportunity to eat really well-executed Kyo-ryori anywhere is such a special treat, because one feels so ‘coddled’ by the kitchen, for lack of a better word. Thanks for the huge Tokyo tip!

1 Like

Had the crab sake at Goryu Kubo in Tokyo a few years back, which I mention in this post

They take a crab leg shell and infuse its flavors with warm/hot sake, similar to how it’s done for hire sake (fugu fin). It’s also entirely possible that there is some dashi inside, which can be used to cut into the sake in a very nice way if done right. The right profile and type of sake needs to be used (the base sake itself needs to be structured and have the ability to withstand heat, and in fact taste even better warmed) or all this won’t work as well.

1 Like

Takeshi Kubo is one of Chef Go’s mentors.