Seems pretty fair to me. I’m curious if you’re basing that off of going to Destroyer and not really enjoying it?Or just his general lack of ever running a tasting menu spot before?
Oh, I’ve not yet had the chance to try Destroyer, though am hoping to rectify that sometime soon’ish.
This (Vespertine) is such a leap from his previous experiences … I know he has a great pedigree, pastry-wise, but this is at least an order of magnitude more, in terms of degree of difficulty.
I wish him well, and would absolutely be thrilled to see something this conceptual take hold in LA. But, I’m very unsure whether LA is the type of dining town that embraces something like this. It does seem much more Scandic/Nordic (a region I adore).
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I agree it’s an order of magnitude above Red Medicine, but I’m not so sure it is an order of magnitude above Destroyer.
I think I also would have assumed it was beyond his reach potentially before trying visiting Destroyer. Even though Destroyer isn’t perfect, it seems like a clear step forward for him, and there are hints of dishes that show he may be capable of pulling it off.
Destroyer has also been embraced by LA, by people with plenty of disposable income (based on conversations heard around me when I ate at Destroyer), and I can imagine a lot of them eating at Vespertine.
I’d be very hesitant about spending this kind of money here. I got burned big time at Momofuku Ko. Not everyone can do a $300 tasting menu dinner, and I’d want to see many good reviews before giving it a shot.
My thought on Jordan is, his desserts are otherworldly. He is truly elite in that area. With respect to savory dishes, he shows flashes of brilliance but his dishes often lack balance.
Curious about when you went to Ko; I was thinking about going soon, but this is obviously not the most glowing review and I’m admittedly not to impressed by the other Momofuku spots.
Beautifully put.
I would recommend saving your money. I’m sufficiently far removed from it to not remember the details, but over and over again, the dishes were perfectly good but not great. The food was more interesting than good. At the price point I require both. It’s somewhat modeled, obviously, on L’Atelier de Joel Robochon. A bar with tasting menu level food. I’ve been to Robuchon in Paris–the food is so far and above what I got at Ko that it’s laughable, and it was cheaper to boot. If you’re not in love with Chang’s other spots, I would not do Ko. Go to EMP or Daniel or Le Bernadin or some other NYC temple of gastronomy.
I wasn’t going to go until seeing this, damn!
I designed that building.
Hah, A friend of mine in fashion had quite the opposite reaction and couldn’t stop raving. I guess the building design should fit Jordan Kahn well since it’s polarizing as well.
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Really?
Jus’ kiddin’.
This article makes the place sound insane.
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That’s AWFULLY diplomatic. I think I barfed a little after reading the article, although I’m not sure if it’s more from what Kahn vs. what how the author writes. But perhaps that’s part of the immersive experience?
An acquaintance of mine said that she felt ridiculous paying what Destroyer charges but that it was some of the prettiest and tastiest comfort food she’s ever had. I certainly respect his vision and creativity. And I am definitely not his target market (and I’m not the target market for GQ readership, either).
But I just CAN’T on multiple levels. I don’t want to go to a place where the music is the perhaps the most important part of the meal. And I certainly don’t want to pay $$$ for music that purposely makes me uncomfortable. I can feel plenty uncomfortable in my everyday life, and it doesn’t cost me anything.
But I certainly do look forward to seeing other people’s report.
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have we started the death-watch for this place yet?
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Your patented, “I curse you” spell has been cast. Countdown begins now.
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So sad, but so true. I guess it would be a privilege to have the kind of life where you have to pay for pain?
Has the death-watch ever been initiated for a restaurant that hasn’t opened yet??? Unprecedented…
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This man must have access to the finest marijuana SoCal can produce, because he cray cray. Possibly a culinary genius, but cray cray.
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