Modern Chinese Cuisine Steeped in Tradition, but Accessible to a Wider Audience and New Generation – Succulent Roasted Pork Shoulder Char Siu, Supple Hainan Chicken Rice, Outrageous Pork Chop Buns and More! – Needle and Pearl River Deli [Thoughts + Pics]

Update 5 (To-Go):

Chef Johnny Lee and Pearl River Deli just announced a slew of specials for this weekend, but the one that caught our attention the most was his take on the classic Hong Kong dish, Wonton Noodle Soup. For those that didn’t get to try Noodle Boy (not to be confused with Noodle World, Noodle Planet, Noodle Galaxy or any other variation on “Noodle”), :sweat_smile: it was a hole-in-the-wall in the San Gabriel Valley that was making the best Wonton Noodle Soup (by a wide margin) in L.A. / O.C. Sadly, it closed a few years back and it’s been a sad state of affairs ever since. :frowning:

So we couldn’t wait to try the debut of Chef Lee’s Wonton Noodle Soup today(!), and brought along another dear friend from Hong Kong (socially distanced, eating 6 feet apart) to get her thoughts.

New social distanced outdoor tables:

Salt and Pepper Tofu:

This dish continues to shine: Chef Johnny Lee’s homage to the classic “Salt and Pepper (Insert Protein)” Hong Kong / Cantonese dishes, but here, made with excellent freshly made Meiji Tofu.

Make sure you uncover this dish immediately after picking it up to prevent steaming (and softening). Each bite is still a wonderful crispiness, a beautiful balance of Salt & Pepper and Chilies, but never too salty. The flavoring is addicting and so delicious (and 100% naturally vegan)! :heart:

Our friend from Hong Kong couldn’t stop eating this. :blush:

Macau Pork Chop Bun:

Just as incredible as before! :heart: The soft, fresh Pineapple Bun continues to be a great starting point, lending a touch of light sweetness, before you bite down into the ridiculous succulent, moist Heritage Pork Chop that is tender, not dried out, not overcooked, but just pure tastiness. Then the Housemade Maggi-Aioli for umami, the Caramelized Onions and you continue to have one of the most outstanding new items on the culinary scene in Southern California! :heart:

Still a menu highlight.

(New) Wonton Charsiu Noodles:

Wonton Noodle Soup is a classic, simple, humble dish. Our friend from Hong Kong tells us of it being a comforting, quick meal growing up in Hong Kong. She hasn’t found a good version here in L.A. yet.

Taking a sip:

Delicate, light, the Housemade Wonton Soup is a combination of Pork, Chicken and Shrimp Heads, and there’s a delicate brininess (very light) in the background. It is wonderful and the best Wonton Soup we’ve had since Noodle Boy! :heart:

But then you take a bite of the Housemade Wontons, a combination of Marinated Ground Pork and Shrimp:

Ridiculous.

Seriously, shut the front door! :smile: :open_mouth: :heart: :blush: :heart:

It’s got an incredible crave-worthy delicate porcine note, tender meatiness, and a sweetness from the Shrimp! Note that this is an incredible achievement as every Wonton we’ve tried locally tastes like Frozen Shrimp (briny, oceanic in a bad way, or tasting of freezer burn). Not so here!

It tastes like the sweetness you get from quality, Live Shrimp (but clearly there’s no way it can be at these prices). But it’s very fresh.

The combination with soft, pliant Wonton skins makes this:

The Best Wontons in L.A.! Hands down! :heart:

This is better than Noodle Boy! Easily! :open_mouth: :heart:

(Included) Pork Neck Charsiu:

You have an option to have the Wonton Noodles with Chef Lee’s Housemade Pork Neck Charsiu. For those FTC’ers who were on the fence about Chef Lee’s Pork Neck Charsiu previously, it’s gotten even better.

Today’s Pork Neck Charsiu was meaty, but tender, enough bits of fattiness, but mainly lean meat and still so tender and moist, it is the Best Charsiu for Takeout in L.A. right now! It was outstanding today! :heart: (This is until Needle brings back their Pork Shoulder Charsiu for dine-in.)

The Egg Noodles are tasty, and springy and matches the Wonton Soup perfectly well.

Together, a sip of the Housemade Broth, a bite of the incredible Housemade Wontons, and you have:

  • The Best Wonton Noodle Soup in L.A.! :heart: :blush: :heart:

Do not miss this! (@PorkyBelly @J_L @A5KOBE @attran99 @paranoidgarliclover @TheCookie @JeetKuneBao @beefnoguy @Sgee @CiaoBob and others) (I wish I could @ FTC because it is that good.)

Thinking about what Chef Johnny Lee and Pearl River Deli are doing right now is mind-blowing: This is some of the most exciting cooking in L.A. right now, honoring traditional Chinese recipes, but elevating it and making it more accessible to a wider audience (not by watering down, just presenting and executing it to another level entirely).

Pearl River Deli is already making the Best Hainan Chicken Rice in L.A., the Best Macau Pork Chop Bun (do not miss this!), a “Sandwich” that is worthy as the next big thing after Howlin’ Ray’s Fried Chicken Sando.

Add to that, very good Charsiu (and today’s Pork Neck Charsiu was ridiculous!), amazing standouts like the Salt & Pepper Tofu, Map Tofu, Beef Short Rib, Tendon and Radish Stew, and so many specials that rotate in and out.

But today marks yet another culinary highlight:

The Best Wonton Noodle Soup in the City of Angels. Our friend from Hong Kong slurped down an entire bowl by herself and turned to us to say: “This is comfort food! It reminds me of Hong Kong. Thank you!” :blush: It is a testament to Chef Lee’s skills and his passion for cooking, and is something worth seeking out and celebrating.

Pearl River Deli
727 N. Broadway, #130
Los Angeles, CA 90012
Tel: (626) 688-9507

(Check their IG for latest specials and updates):

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