Modern Chinese Cuisine Steeped in Tradition, but Accessible to a Wider Audience and New Generation – Succulent Roasted Pork Shoulder Char Siu, Supple Hainan Chicken Rice, Outrageous Pork Chop Buns and More! – Needle and Pearl River Deli [Thoughts + Pics]

Hi @JeetKuneBao,

I wish you were able to enjoy this bowl with the rest of us! :slight_smile:

Yah, we were shocked. Chef Lee’s Housemade Wontons are definitely better than Noodle Boy’s. So good! And I think you had a hand in nudging the broth a bit! :wink:

Thank you for bringing PRD to light (along with @PorkyBelly) in the first place! :slight_smile: We hope to try the weekend specials!

And yah, with HK food dying in general (@chandavkl and others had talked about this), it’s great to see a revival and improvement on the dishes in LA at least.

1 Like

Them’s fighting words :scream:

1 Like

Hi @Sgee,

I know, we were really surprised as well (in a good way). Also, you just reminded me (because you had the great recommendation back then!):

Pearl River Deli doesn’t have bottles of red vinegar for their wontons (then again, I don’t think any restaurant is going to put out condiment bottles right now for everyone to touch). Is red vinegar a must have for Wonton Noodle Soup? (@beefnoguy @J_L @JeetKuneBao @PorkyBelly @moonboy403 and others.)

1 Like

Red vinegar and chili oil is the preferred dipping sauce for wontons!

7 Likes

May I suggest - superior dosage calibration too :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

image

2 Likes

Suggest BYORV

3 Likes

Thanks @JeetKuneBao @Sgee @J_L. What was impressive was that Pearl River’s Housemade Wontons stood on their own, so delicious, without any condiments. Whereas some of the local places like Sam Woo BBQ feel like you want to add the chili to help make the mediocre Wontons taste better. :sweat_smile:

This topic is sorta like eating sushi with ginger.

Traditionally, the “correct” way, whatever that means, is to use red vinegar only for the noodles because it’s to minimize or neutralize the alkaline flavor. It’s meant for dipping rather than pouring them into the broth like many. Otherwise, it’ll mess with the purity of the broth and wonton.

However, if one enjoys pouring vinegar into their broth like my mom does, who are we or anyone else to tell them what’s good and what’s not? You paid for it so you do what you want with it!

2 Likes

Hi @moonboy403,

Ooh, fascinating. So do folks “dip” the noodles into the red vinegar in a… container like Soba Noodles? Or just on the plate? (And from what you described, what we saw at Noodle Boy (and Sam Woo) are people just adding some of the red vinegar into the bowl (or not using it).) :slight_smile:

Whatever floats your boat!

1 Like

For reference

Lau Sam Kee in Sham Shui Po (Hong Kong) - some photos could be dated so not entirely representative of what they have now

  • two kinds of chili sauce made from fermented sweet potatoes with no additives. The more famous brand is Yu Kwun Yick which is legendary (and not exported…but maybe you might be able to find some in Toronto or Vancouver, not sure). YKY as @Ns1 has experienced before, is based off of I believe a family Shunde recipe. Either way this is the classic style chili sauce for won tons.

  • red vinegar (2nd photo) and black vinegar (first photo, same type you would use for
    Northern dumplings, XLB etc). The idea is to help neutralize the alkaline water / kansui taste from the noodle making process.

  • this is vital and super traditional, house pickles/pickled sour daikon. Not many traditional shops do this anymore. Call it Cantonese tsukemono if you like, it’s super addicting!

lsk

Mak Man Kee (Jordan)

  • red vinegar
  • white pepper
  • toothpicks
  • unknown chili sauce (less remarkable than the old school kind Lau Sam Kee uses)
  • anyone’s guess what the other two are, but could be soy sauce and chili oil (oil only)

MMK

Depending on the style of the noodles and how heavy the alkaline water, adding vinegar is really up to you. Generally I just use a light dab of chili sauce. I find red vinegar a better choice to add to pan fried noodles with pork strip shiitake bean sprouts and yellow chives. Sometimes the stir fry chefs in California make the non noodle mixture too cornstarchy thick, so a little vinegar helps cut it, and even if not so, brings out some additional aromas.

7 Likes

This (about the purity). I was kind of “worried” when I heard about/saw the charsiu in the broth b/c, for me, the broth should have a relatively clean and light (and not [edit: BBQ-]porky) flavor.

Whole thing sounds delish, @Chowseeker1999.

1 Like

Hi @beefnoguy,

Thanks for the great info! :slight_smile: Wow that Yu Kwun Yick chili sauce sounds amazing! Bummed they don’t export it, and I guess it’s what makes that 1 eatery in HK standout? Is it really spicy, or just a gentle heat?

I definitely haven’t seen any local HK shops offer housemade pickles / sour daikon with their wonton noodle soup! Interesting. :slight_smile:

Hi @paranoidgarliclover,

Yah, we also love to enjoy the purity in the broth and wontons. Fear not, the Charsiu was gently added on top of the “dry” noodles (and the broth is separately packed). So you can take out the Charsiu, pour in the broth and just enjoy separately. :slight_smile:

Hope you get to try it soon.

1 Like

Update 6 (To-Go):

Besides the stunning Wonton Noodles that Chef Johnny Lee was adding to the menu this weekend, he’s also added 3 new specials as part of a tribute to Vietnamese cuisine(!). :open_mouth: (And perhaps a warm up to his collaboration with Ancom.la.)

(Special) Banh Nam (Steamed Rice Dumpling with Ground Pork and Dried Shrimp):

As Chef Lee puts it, this is a Hue-inspired dish (Central Vietnam), and looks a bit like a Chinese Zhongzi, but thinner.

First, the Rice filling is silky and much softer than a Chinese Zhongzi. The texture reminds us of @Dommy’s favorite Yucatecan Tamales, moist and softer exterior. The filling of Ground Pork and Dried Shrimp is tasty, but when dipped in some of Chef Lee’s Nuoc Mam Dipping Sauce (a Fish Sauce and Chili combination), it really sings! :blush:

(Special) Com Ga Hoi An (Shredded Chicken and Herb Salad over Turmeric Chicken Rice):

Now initially it might seem like a “poor man’s Hainan Chicken Rice,” but it’s something totally different: The fresh Herb Salad on top is wonderful. Impeccably pristine, clean, bright Basil and Mint and Onions awakens your palate as you take a bite, then into a piece of fresh Poached Shredded Chicken, lightly seasoned, but a complement to the Turmeric Chicken Rice, which is aromatic and has a light tartness to balance out the savory. Delicious! :blush:

One impressive note: The Poached Shredded Chicken is fresh, made that day for the order. It tastes fresh and vibrant and that really is important to this dish as the main protein. Those that know about restaurants and profit margins realize that the Lunch “Chicken Salad” or “Chicken Soup” served at a restaurant? Probably leftovers from the unsold Roasted Chicken the night before, and you can taste it in restaurants that do this.

It’s not that the Chicken went bad, but you can taste the refrigerated funk (even if it’s just overnight), compared to freshly cooked Chicken for that Salad or Soup you’re having. Here for the Com Ga Hoi An, Chef Lee cuts no corners and the Chicken is made today for this dish only. Wonderful. :slight_smile:

Lemongrass Pork Chop (Served with Rice, Fried Egg, Scallion Oil, and Pickled Daikon and Carrots):

This feels like Chef Lee’s take on a Vietnamese Com Tam (Broken Rice) plate, except here at Pearl River Deli, there is an incredible Heritage Pork Chop, perfectly grilled, just cooked through, and it’s meaty, juicy, tender, nice grill marks, delicious Lemongrass notes, and the Scallion Oil topping makes this sing! :heart:

Add on some of the Nuoc Mam (Fish Sauce based Dipping Sauce) and it takes it to another level! :blush: The Pickled Daikon and Carrots add a nice foil to each bite as well. While it’s not traditional Broken Rice, the Steamed Rice here was fine.

Wonton Charsiu Noodles:

To make absolutely sure what we had yesterday for Pearl River Deli’s debut for Wonton Noodle Soup wasn’t a dream, we had to order it again today (to see if it was a dream or a fluke? (I hope not))…

It wasn’t a fluke. :blush:

Taking a sip, the Housemade Wonton Soup, with Pork, Chicken and Shrimp Heads as a base is even better than the 1st visit! :open_mouth: It’s delicate, but has pure, clean flavors.

This is the type of light Broth that we love sipping, even on a warm day. :blush: Outstanding!

The Pork Neck Charsiu (Add-On) is still excellent today as well! Chef Lee has really improved this Charsiu and it’s meaty with just enough fattiness to balance out each bite without overwhelming. And it’s a great accompaniment to the Wonton Noodle Soup! :heart:

Housemade Wontons:

But it’s Chef Johnny Lee’s Housemade Wontons, some incredible recipe with Marinated Ground Pork and Shrimp that still tastes super bright, fresh and inherently sweet (like Fresh / Live Shrimp). This is absolutely delicious! :heart:

While we’re in a pandemic, and this is just a new dish that debuted as a Special right now, it’s understandable that Chef Lee didn’t prepare any Red Vinegar or Chili Oil to accompany this dish for Takeout.

But since our veteran FTC’ers strongly recommended that those condiments should be used for more enjoyment, we took @J_L @Sgee @beefnoguy’s advice:

BYORVCO (Bring Your Own Red Vinegar and Chili Oil):

(Note, I realize the Chili Oil doesn’t exactly match the one we used at Noodle Boy, but we searched the aisles of 99 Ranch Market and this was the closest Chili Oil we found to that.) :wink:

Using the @Sgee Method™ of a few drops of Chili Oil and a bit of Red Vinegar, taking a bite…

Delicious! :blush:

It really does change the flavor and adds a new facet to each bite!

Ultimately, though, in a testament to the cooking prowess of Chef-Owner Johnny Lee, his Housemade Wontons were spectacular on their own, without any Red Vinegar or Chili Oil (but we enjoyed those add ons as well).

Pearl River Deli yet again delivers an outstanding culinary experience: This weekend, a tribute to Vietnamese cuisine, with a wonderful Banh Nam (Rice Dumpling), Com Ga Hoi An (Shredded Chicken and Herb Salad over Turmeric Rice) and his take on a Broken Rice plate, a delicious Grilled Lemongrass Pork Chop over Rice with Nuoc Mam Dipping Sauce.

I’ll defer to our FTC Vietnamese Cuisine experts (@Ns1 @attran99 @JeetKuneBao @hppzz and others) on how Chef Lee’s dishes compare to the OG standouts, but what we had were quite tasty and I’d be glad to order them again if Chef Lee brings it back next month! :slight_smile:

But whatever happens, let’s hope Chef Lee keeps the new Wonton Noodle Soup on the menu. It is simply the Best Wonton Noodle Soup in L.A. right now. Do not miss! (@PorkyBelly @J_L @paranoidgarliclover @Sgee @beefnoguy @JeetKuneBao and others.)

Pearl River Deli
727 N. Broadway, #130
Los Angeles, CA 90012
Tel: (626) 688-9507

(Check their IG for latest specials and updates):

22 Likes

I thought that was you…

Next time I am going to recommend a killer alternative, BYO a particular bottle of ponzu sauce and a game changing Himalayan Pink Salt.

(Let’s see what happens next :wink:)

3 Likes

Or you can make your own!

4 Likes

Hi @beefnoguy,

Wow! :open_mouth: Is this a new trend in Hong Kong? Please let us know which Ponzu and Himalayan Sea Salt to try with Wontons! :slight_smile: Thanks.

Hi @JeetKuneBao,

Nice! :slight_smile: Perhaps in a sign of the lack of interest in Hong Kong / Cantonese cooking, or the 99 Ranch just didn’t have it, but we definitely didn’t see that style of Chili Sauce when we went before Pearl River Deli. Thanks for the recipe. :slight_smile:

Also, do you have any recommendations for good OG places to try Banh Nam, Com Ga Hoi An around So Cal? I’ve never had this before until today. Thanks! (@attran99 @Ns1 @hppzz and others as well, if anyone has recommendations. Thank you!)