A shuttle and two buses took me ten years ago from LAX up La Cienega to 3rd and Fairfax. Been wandering around ever since. Sat in a lot of coffee shops, ate a lot of croissants, stared at a lot of floors and walls.
Don’t know exactly what I’m doing here but ten years is ten years. You find rhythms.
From a bus saw a guy at two in the morning running for us some of my first months here. He had a guitar on his back yelling wait. Missed us by half a block, driver said to himself - that look like a bus stop to you?
Gotten lucky over the years, survival by absence. Stay out of the way, out of the light. Sneak through a crowd or two
I know Josef a bit, not crazy well but enough to come in for a cool dinner in August. Said this was a mix of set dishes and fly cooking.
Flew through Chawanmushi into Bluefin Arava Melon Aguachile
I love one-twos, climbing around, jumping steps and hopping fences. An offering to prepare for what’s next.
Drank a bottle of Hervé Villemade “Les Souchettes” Menu Pineau 2020. Aged in Amphora
Pace picked up fast like who’s controlling this treadmill? Snap Pea Salad Anchovy Vin, that’s who
This one baby piece of cauliflower contained the entire dish in one bite. Those altering extremes, find your own balance pal we got a table to steer.
Another one-two. One I’ve been thinking about. Fat Cream Oil Heat. FCOH, you read about it in all the major literature, years of historical gustatorial discourse
I love experiences that slow me down. Scallop Pancake over Baby Corn Polenta and a Baby Corn Cream Emulsion. Climbing the coaster drop, peaking over the edge
Then Sesame-Crusted Aji and Jimmy Nardello on drums through the backflips, a corkscrew ender
Lobster Squid Time, line up for lobster squid. fire up the pine nuts and get some quick grates going too
Server threw me a different glass of Hervé Villemade to pair. A Romorantin
Kinmedai and the Aji, easily the two coolest dishes on appearance alone, also that concept of simple but nowhere near plain, not anywhere close get the hell out of here
Kinmedai, Asparagus, Black Coco Beans, Sauce Vignard
Those fuckin coco beans required so much planning. who, what, when, where, why?
I saved one whole bean for the end and the other I cut in half to eat along the way
Quiet Classic
Satsuki Rice, Scallop, Carabineros, Hokkaido Uni, Monterey Bay Abalone, Geoduck, Parmesan Cream, Citrus Fern
Alaskan Troll Caught Salmon Belly, Huckleberry, Chanterelle and Sun-Golds, Herb Egg Emulsion + Grape Cornbread w/ Sour Beer Pairing
corn bread picking up the emulsion, bite of berry and tomato, have some mushroom, some salmon back through that emulsion, take some beer and start over
Nodoguru, Pluot, Pomme Puree, Sweet & Sour Brown Butter
Checkered flag, heading to the podium, some more rationing with pluot this time. When do I need that sweet & sour?
I love dishes that have figured out for you where the line is for too much of a good thing. And they say that’s all I’m giving you
Why would you need more?
You get to the end and you’re like, cool every bite of pluot made sense.
Peach, Peach Crumble, Miso Caramel, Whipped Cream, Pineapple Mint
And it’s back to wandering. Sometimes you see a cool building. They’re all over the place. So am I