Pillowy, Soft Mochi! The Two Neighboring Japanese Confectioneries: Sakura-Ya and Chikara Mochi

Castella is more dense. The crumb is very smooth and even - I think a first try would make one think castella is a lighter airier pound cake but with a honey-like flavor and stickiness.

Castella is very basic in ingredients but mastering the preparation and baking processes is supposed to be somewhat difficult, or at least tedious.

The wooden frame is supposed to be essential, as it transfers heat more slowly and evenly, giving the cake a nice even crumb. The eggs are supposed to be beaten to a specific consistency, which adds lift and lightness.

Nagasaki prefecture in Japan is known for castella. Back pre-Meiji restoration, Japan was mostly closed off from the rest of the world. Nagasaki was the only major port known to be open to outside traders. The Portuguese brought in trade and Catholicism through Nagasaki (thus many Japanese are Catholics there).

Castella was one of those goods introduced. It was favored by sailors because despite its delicate appearance, it travelled and kept well - probably due to the high sugar/honey content and prep/bake techniques. And this why castella sold here was made in and imported from Japan.

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Love your thorough explanation of the historical context of Castella. By the way, have you seen this Tastemade video? There’s a lovely section with a Castella artisan in Yokohama. It’s from 1:50 to 6:30 in the video.

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Such interesting info, @bulavinaka!

Is this castella very common in Japanese markets in the U.S. (regardless of source of origin)? I’ve definitely had some sort of Japanese sponge cake, but the ones I’ve had are perhaps lighter than what you describe. Also interesting that the ingredient list doesn’t contain oil or butter.

If slow and presumably low heat transfer is important (since I assume the wood would burn otherwise), I wonder if a cast-iron skillet would work for you, @aaqjr? Might make for an interesting experiment. :slight_smile: Or you could try this: Castella Cake Recipe カステラ • Just One Cookbook

Thanks - I’m a geek. And thank you for the video - will check it out.

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Very very common. The quality can vary a lot as well. J-Sweets in the Torrance Mitsuwa has always been a reliable source for premium confections. They carry (I think) a few types, including maccha.

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Most certainly. But if you ask for ‘Castella’ at a Japanese market in the U.S., you will likely get blank stares.

Try asking for ‘kasutera’… And success shall be yours.

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I’ve heard that you can use a loaf pan and wrap it in wet newspaper but i haven’t tried it myself

If you get a chance, take a look at the video on Yokohama treats that @MaladyNelson posted. The host visits a castella bakery. Some footage of the baker’s work is included.

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I did! of course

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Go West, young eater!

Update:

Thanks to the reminder from @A5KOBE, we stopped by Fugetsu-Do in Little Tokyo, to see how the oldest of the Japanese Confectioneries in L.A. compared. Founded in 1903(!), walking in to Fugetsu-Do had a charming, old-timey feel to the place. :slight_smile:

Current owner and Mochi maker Brian Kito represents the 3rd generation of the family that has been running Fugetsu-Do since his grandfather Seiichi Kito opened it up in Little Tokyo in 1903.

We ordered 8 of the most enticing looking Mochi / Manju on display: :slight_smile:

Green Tea Manju:

Manju is usually made with Flour, Rice Powder and with a filling of Red Bean (or White Bean), and we were intrigued (I love Green Tea!). The Manju was just OK. It tasted like a denser, chewier version of Dim Sum’s Charsiu Bao, like a Steamed Bun. The filling had a slight Green Tea tinge, but really was very sweet from the Red Bean.

Ume Manju:

This was Manju that supposedly had Ume (Japanese Plum) mixed in with the Red Bean, which sounded wild. This was also hampered by the dryish, dense Manju outside, but the Plum mixture - slightly tart - helped balance out the Sweetened Red Bean filling a bit.

Red Bean Daifuku:

This is like Mochi but it’s chewier, with the focus on the pounded Rice. The Sweetened Red Bean filling however was really sweet. It was nice, and slightly chewier than the standard Mochi.

Kusa (Red Bean) Mochi:

Their classic Mochi (with Sweetened Red Bean) has a delicate, soft texture, with the rice exterior being more pliant and not as chewy as the Daifuku.

But in terms of delicate, pillowy-ness, Sakura-Ya is by far better, with Fugetsu-Do 2nd, and Chikara Mochi 3rd.

Kiku (White Bean) Mochi:

The White Bean filling is also just as over-sweet as the Red Bean at Fugetsu-Do. Our friends didn’t mind, but I felt in terms of Sugar content, Sakura-Ya was less sweet (better), with Chikara Mochi 2nd and Fugetsu-Do 3rd.

Habutai (Red Bean) Mochi:

This was their classic Mochi with Sweetened Red Bean, with the white rice exterior. It tasted pretty close to the Kusa.

Uguisu (Red Bean) with Kinako Mochi:

This is their take on the Toasted Soy Bean Powder Mochi. While the Kinako was wonderful, their overly sweet filling detracted from the Mochi for us.

Strawberry Anco Mochi:

While it’s spelled “Anco” on their display, this is essentially their Anko (Red Bean) filling which is much smoother than their chunkier version in some of the Mochi.

It is also a newer fusion flavor, catering to the younger generation perhaps, with a real Strawberry Jam-like taste, mixed in with the Anko itself. It was different, kinda fun, but also a bit too sweet.

One of the nicest aspects is what @A5KOBE mentions about their gift-wrapping. They feature Free Gift Wrapping when you buy their Mochi, and it’s definitely the nicest presentation out of all 3 places (to give as gifts):

Ranging from $1.25 - $1.50 for each sweet, Fugetsu-Do is right in line with the other 2 places.

In thinking back on all 3 Confectioneries now, I’d have to say:

Taste:

  1. Sakura-Ya
  2. Chikara Mochi
  3. Fugetsu-Do

Sakura-Ya has the perfect combination of amazing pillowy, cloud-like fluffiness, and is less sweet than the other 2 places, especially their White Bean filling. That combination makes the overall taste our favorite. Fugetsu-Do would’ve been 2nd if they used less Sugar, but it was just too sweet for us.

Texture:

  1. Sakura-Ya
  2. Fugetsu-Do
  3. Chikara Mochi

Just in terms of pounded rice, softness and feel, Sakura-Ya is first, and Fugetsu-Do was better than Chikara.

Visual Artistry (“Plating”):

  1. Chikara Mochi
  2. Fugetsu-Do
  3. Sakura-Ya

Just visually, Chikara has the most beautiful, creative, fun Mochi to wow yourself and friends & family. Fugetsu-Do has some interesting looking ones as well, but also has plain ones. Sakura-Ya may not have the pretty exterior, but they more than make up for it in overall Taste & Texture. :slight_smile:

Variety / Flavors:

  1. Fugetsu-Do
  2. Chikara Mochi
  3. Sakura-Ya

Fugetsu-Do had the most varieties & offerings (they also had a Blueberry-flavored Mochi(!), besides the other flavors like Green Tea and Ume). However, we felt that they were undermined by the excessive Sugar content in their fillings. :frowning:

But ultimately, all 3 places are much better than the typical “Mochi” you might find prepackaged in supermarkets, etc.They are wonderful places to visit when you get a chance. :slight_smile:

Fugetsu-Do
315 E. 1st St.
Los Angeles, CA 90012
Tel: (213) 625-8595

http://www.fugetsu-do.com/

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Thanks for doing the legwork. I definitely need to try those two other places.

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The only thing I ever get a Fugetsu-Do are the unstuffed, “pure” mochi rectangles. They’re fantastic. :slight_smile:

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Are those the flavored ones? I’ve noticed that those have a much softer, smoother texture.

Yup. I have to say that I’m actually not a huge fan of stuffed mochi in general, so these (the unstuffed ones) are like heaven to me. The texture is unreal. The only “problem” is that you need to eat them relatively quickly (which is not a prob for me!). They’re actually still quite good the next day, though.

Someone (maybe @ipsedixit?) had posted a hack on CH on how to revive them, but I don’t quite remember what it was (a little sprinkling of water and then popping them into the microwave?)…

Yeah - popular (and I think originally geared toward kids) and I like them too. Anything mochi that includes candy-like flavors, chocolate or peanut butter disappears first at our house.

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Thanks so much for reviewing Fugetsu-Do, @Chowseeker1999. You brought back so many memories from my childhood. Since I grew up in Ventura County, getting wagashi from Fugetsu-Do was a very rare treat, and it was always so exciting to see that neatly wrapped box of sweets on our kitchen counter. My favorites were the kiku (chrysanthemum-shaped wagashi) and hiyoko (chick-shaped wagashi) as a kid purely for aesthetic reasons. As an adult, I love sakura mochi for its sweet/savory contrast. It kind of reminds me of dolmas in dessert form.

I had excellent sakura mochi from the Okabe Seifunjo pop-up at Mitsuwa in Torrance earlier in the year.

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Hi @MaladyNelson,

Wow that Sakura Mochi looks nice! :slight_smile: I wonder if they’ll be back next year during Spring as well? I love Sakura Mochi! :blush:

Interestingly, I didn’t see the Hiyoko-shaped Mochi at Fugetsu-Do. Maybe they sold out?

My mom’s favorites were the Sakura mochi and hiyoko! She’d actually make it and others because she missed mochi and manju so much.

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That sakura mochi was the stuff of dreams, @Chowseeker1999. It struck the right balance between sweet and salty. I imagine they’ll be back next year. Sakura mochi is traditionally eaten on Hinamatsuri (Japanese Girls’ Day or Doll’s Day), which is on March 3rd. You might want to check Mitsuwa’s schedule for the Torrance location near the end of February.

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