I was in the mood for a white-tablecloth restaurant, and thought of Rivoli. Turns out they no longer have tablecloths, though otherwise the atmosphere is the same as ever, as is the polished service. I think the menu’s less French and more Italian than it used to be and the prices are a bit lower.
The Chardonnay, Godello, and rosato were all very nice, as was the 2016 Pallus Mensanges Chinon ($40).
sunchoke soup, very nice
shrimp and avocado toast, ditto
portobello fritters as good as ever
very fall-feeling pork chop, appropriate to the rainy night
very spring-feeling crab risotto (sorry about the bad photo)
spectacular gateau Basque