What is happening with Taco Maria? The food is fine I guess, but it seems to be going backwards. For example, there is no strawberry atole anymore…no increase in courses, the snacks that begin the meal have been the exact same for over a year…and the menu barely rotates dishes out. It has been the same menu for the entire month since I have been back. All this while prices rise. And therea re truly like no Mexican wines left… sigh
The last time I went I couldn’t quite order everything on the menu with my friend, but I still did an alright job.
Carrot aguachile looked cool, but was the worst version of aguachile I have had at Taco Maria. It was sort of like eating just a bunch of carrots. Not really anything impressive or interesting about it other than how it looked. I don’t even recall tasting the fish as the carrot completely overwhelmed it. It would have been better as just carrots, smaller pieces. I had some vegetable-only aguachiles in Mexico that made way more sense than this, but they were also 1 course out of like 12-16, not 1 out of 4… did not translate well. First time I genuinely felt like a dish really failed at Taco Maria =/
Sturgeon tacos were alright. Good sturgeon, and fresh cabbage and thousand island, but felt like something was missing to me. Just not interesting enough. The smoked marlin tacos at Coni are far superior and a fraction of the cost.
Abelone pozole verde was nice. Really nicely done abelone, and good flavors. Complex, earthy, briny and hearty without being heavy. Solid, but I can’t help remembering the magic of the crab porridge versus a dish that is now just “good”.
Mains fared better. They still know how to do pork belly better than almost anyone and the huge chicharron was awesome. Fabulous onion sauce and super fresh peas treated just right. Saw a glimpse of that magic. Some would find this too fatty though, but I thought the onion and peas did a nice job of cutting it.
Duck was also perfectly done and came with a nice mole, very delicate. Lovely spring onion on display as well. Simple, but very good plate.
Some cookies finished the meal; would have preferred the lovely atole. The cookies were nice, but forgettable.
Wine pairings were nice despite not being Mexican.
We are looking at about $140/person for this meal (including tax/tip/wine). I am not sure it made sense at that price level unfortunately. I need more courses, more magic… there was a time when I felt enchanted by everything at Taco Maria, but now it seems like things are falling flat. I don’t know what is going on exactly. It is not bad, but it is no longer the palace of wonders it used to be, even if they still cook the best pork belly in socal. $100 (without win) is a mighty high price tag just to get at that…