Twist by Pierre Gagnaire at the Waldorf Astoria

I’ve always been intrigued by Twist given Pierre Gagnaire’s 3* reputation and relatively boundary-pushing approach in cooking. But for one reason or another, I never made it to the restaurant…until now. The existential threat of the restaurant induced by a hotel takeover may or may not have increased my desire to try their food as soon as I could.

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salted butter and citrus butter duo

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assorted bread: cranberry multigrain, walnut raisin, french baguette
Good bread with the exception of the Baguette which came out too dense.

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Canape city! The front two were sweet roasted corn mousse with chives and lavash crackers
Gorgeous contrast between the crispy crackers and the sweet and superbly light and airy mousse.

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tequila and red Currant gelee with a dollop of curry sauce
Mildly tart and boozy tempered by the savory curry in a nice way.

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From left to right: parmesean gougere with a piquillo pepper filling, tart of bonito cream and zucchini, hibiscus marshmallow with thai basil gelee

Yummeh little bites.

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watermelon juice, lemongrass, lime
As usual, I opted for a non-alcohol pairing and left it up to the mixologist’s imagination in creating them.

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watermelon | campari, elderflower, tomato gelee, tomato seeds, burrata ice cream, dill blossom
A fine appetizing start with the “twist” of using burrata in an ice cream.

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passion fruit, smoked honey syrup, lemon, soda water

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summer squash chawanmushi | petite summer squash, pea tendrils, creme fraiche, english peas, uni, smoked trout roe, potato chips
Superb! The savory egg custard, though not as silky smooth as I’m used to, is loaded with uni umami! The smoked roes is unusually firm which is unlike the usual roes at a sushi joint. They give out a extremely satisfying pop in your mouth.

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pomegranate, blackberries, raspberries, strawberries

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seared foie gras | summer fruit chutney, grilled savoy cabbage, red wine braised rhubarb, cherry coulis with white balsamic black currant sorbet
Wonderful textbook stuff!

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The aforementioned sorbet’s cold and acidic nature reset your palate really well after each bite.

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chamomile tea, lemongrass syrup, lemon

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Live saucing action

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squid & prawn | squid with prawn mousse, prawn with green curry, fregola with red currant bisque of lobster

Perfection. All elements were cooked to perfection and complemented each other well. The lobster bisque is basically crack or how I imagine crack would be like.

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zucchini puree, lemon sorbet, milk mousse
Another play on contrasting texture and temperature on this palate cleanser. It did an excellent job with a mix of savory, sweet, and acidic flavor profile.

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Blackberries, cherries, lime, mint, cranberry, tonic water

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Pour on those bordelaise sauce!

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american wagyu | black australian truffle, artichokes, cleriac, spinach veloute, aspargus, pickled pearl onion
Tender filet with umami bomb sauces in the form of a bordelaise and truffle sauce

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Side #1: yukon potato puree with roasted hazelnut
70/30 potato to butter ratio. Good flavor but it was overprocessed so it was a gummy mess.

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Side #2: green bean salad with sesame
A refreshing palate cleanser to counter the potato puree and rich meat course.

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espresso, coconut syrup

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Dessert extravaganza part 1!

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manjari parfait, almond Nougatine, bitter chocolate foam
Good.

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apple Tatin with calvados caramel sauce, vanilla ice cream
Good.

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grand marnier hibiscus gelee, saffron cake, white almond paste
Meh. Tasted like boozy cough syrup to me!

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coconut panna cotta with elderflower cream, frozen heering pineapple
Good.

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raisins and aloe vera with licorice kaffir lime vodka coulis, basil lime sherbet
Good.

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layered creme brulee cake with mixed berry gelee, rosewater sorbet, chocolate
GREAT!

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sherry and pinot grigio cake with browned merginue
SUPERB!

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Cross section of said cake.

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Raspberry tart and bitter chocolate of some sort

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Candied hazelnut as parting gift.

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Can’t leave without a tour of kitchen right? After talking with CDC John Miranda, who hail from the OC area, fear of Twist closing is unfounded since Waldorf Astoria is very happy with the restaurant’s performance.

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Restroom with a view!

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A wild Toto has appeared! @PorkyBelly


Twist turned in a great performance and lived up to my expectations. The 6 course tasting menu actually consisted of 5 savory + 7 dessert courses. On the other hand, seasoning was on point, flavors were great, and the liberal use of gelee, mousse, and sorbet throughout the meal is quite unique and worked well IMO. My only qualm is the lack of protein in this meal as you can probably tell by looking at the pictures. I literally only got one shrimp and a few pieces of squid in one course and a miniature sized foie in another. :rofl:

Twist by Pierre Gagnaire
3752 Las Vegas Blvd S
Las Vegas, NV 89158

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Looks great but they went overboard on the desserts. Give me more savories than sweets.

What about the beef?

Savory all day for me as well, but the # of dessert courses certain pleased the lady.

Yes, the size of the beef is more of what I’m used to. Other than that…

Oooh, a Commercial Flushometer High Efficiency GPF, in ash colorway. Considered endangered in its natural habitat, this particular specimen seems robust.

1 Like

IMO Twist has gone downhill drastically, it was at its best when Kawasaki was at the helm.

Just out of curiosity, in what ways have Twist gone downhill drastically? Can you kindly elaborate? Thanks!

Did the Mandarin morph into the Waldorf?

Yup. Waldorf took over management duties.