What’s the Armenian name for “Armenian nutmeg cake”

Holy shit. I love how much research you’ve done on this cake. This is why this site is my favorite place on the internet.

2 Likes

So obviously some very proud Armenians brought it here when they migrated from Syria

A bunch of newspapers ran minor variations of that “Syrian nutmeg cake” recipe in the latter half of 1957. My guess is they got it from Spice Islands, which included it in a 1961 cookbook. I can’t find anything older.

The recipe might have been an attempt to approximate something that was traditionally made with semolina or almond meal using ingredients that were readily available in the US in the 50s.

Okay, I am a long time fan of Laurie Colwin and that story sounds exactly like something she would do. But. BUT. 4 tsp of freshly grated nutmeg? Gads, that feels way too strong. Even her gingerbread recipe uses just a tablespoon of ginger and nutmeg is a much stronger flavor.

But my argument is probably with Arthur Schwartz, not you! : )

Your later recipes (thank you!) with one and a half or two tsp. of nutmeg feel a tad more balanced.

Now here’s the big question, you’ve made me so curious - have you made the cake?!

I had some. It’s a coffee cake with a shortcake crust. Very clever recipe. You could use any spices.

1 Like

Very good to know. Thank you!

My google showed a ton of links to recipes.

The Internet has been playing Telephone with that recipe for a long time. I think there are over a thousand variations of Syrian / Armenian / Laurie Colwin’s / Indonesian Nutmeg Cake.

The version I had used 1-1/2 tsp. and it wasn’t a terribly strong nutmeg flavor.

I’m skeptical that the recipe Colwin gave Bracken called for freshly grated, and if you were using ground nutmeg from the supermarket, four teaspoons might not be very strong, especially if it was a jar you’d opened months or years earlier.

Robert,

I agree, most supermarket pre-ground spices get weak over the years. But I still have one jar of nutmeg that I use with extra caution - it’s superpowered and will take over anything! That said, a pinch of it is darn lively,

Okay, I confess your post made me wander down the rabbit hole of the internet and I found folks who have made the cake and? They made it with the 4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg and loved it. Dagnabbit - this means game on and I now have to make the cake for myself, to see.

Here’s a one of the links, with a fab picture of the cake -

And boy howdy, I thank you again for this post, because, in addition to a new cake recipe to try, it reminded me again of why I love Laurie so much – "When life is hard and the day has been long, the ideal dinner is not four perfect courses, each in a lovely pool of sauce whose ambrosial flavors are like nothing ever before tasted, but rather something comforting and savory, easy on the digestion – something that makes one feel, if even for only a minute, that one is safe.”

1 Like

I’m looking at the 1957 recipe and see the use of “golden shortening”. Because I’m dying of curiosity to try this recipe and assume that regular shortening will suffice, what is the “golden shortening” that is referenced?

A variation of partially-hydrogenated oil that makes it even more disgusting by adding artificial flavor and color.

https://www.amazon.com/Crisco-Golden-All-Vegetable-Shortening-Grams/dp/B014YB7EXQ

I’d use butter.

Truly disgusting, thank you. I agree, I’ll use butter.