Shoji at 69 Leonard - Tribeca


#1

Dinner at Shoji @ 69. Chef Derek Wilcox previously trained at Kikunoi for 7 years and 3 years at Sushi Aoki in Ginza. He returned stateside a year ago. I had my reservations prior to dining here, glad to report he has legit skills and does an excellent job sourcing ingredients from the local NY area and Japan.

Few thoughts… I think the concept might be better served skewing more towards kaiseki/Kikunoi style than going head-on with the new sushi heavy hitters. Don’t get me wrong, his sushi is very good aside from a few very very minor technical issues (i.e untoasted nori). IMO the city could do with a few more kaiseki restaurants at Okuda’s level. I would love to see Shoji evolve in this direction, especially one incorporating NY/Northeast seasonal ingredients executed by a chef of his caliber.

Hokkaido uni with eggplant “noodles”

Boston Chu-toro served with sauce made of egg yolk, tosa soy sauce


Grilled Long Island striped bass with local tomatoes dressed with pressed sesame oil, excellent.

Shioko (juvenile Kanpachi) served with yuzu white soy sauce

Poached octopus from Sajima with cucumber blossom, eggplant, pepper, new potato, myoga

Soy milk cream, egg white and CA botan ebi broth (no solids) custard - Amazing texture and flavor. Very smooth, soft and integrated flavors. Best dish of the night…

Summer corn soup

Shin Ika (Baby cuttlefish). This was the body of an entire cuttlefish. Soft and supple texture.

Aji, very good.

Boston bluefin akami

Long island fluke cured in kombu

Nodoguro

Scallop (forgot the specific source off the NE coast)

Anago

CA Uni

Sujiko ikura

Negi toro

Kama toro

Sake lees granita - excellent rich flavor! @beefnoguy & @thecookie would love this

Monaka (wafer) filled with soy cream, blueberries hyssop


Tasting the Seasons of Japan - The Exquisite, Austere, Pure Kaiseki Cuisine of Hayato [Thoughts + Pics]
#2

Nice pics! This place has been slowly evolving since it opened. I really enjoy the mix of kaiseki-style dishes and nigiri sushi here. The sushi rice is always on-point.


#3

Thanks, I do hope he will expand the repertoire of kaiseki/kappo style dishes.


#4

When you booked, were they offering multiple menu options? They introduced a short, medium and long format menu earlier in the summer, but it looks like they now have only 1 option. I’m sure that if you contacted them in advance, they’d accommodate a request for a more embellished menu. The add-ons there have always been a treat: aka uni from Amakasu, konowata and konoko. They pretty much always have ika gesso; an underated classic in my opinion.


#5

They only had 1 menu option during the night I was there.


#6

Glowing NYT review


#7

Some pictures from a recent dinner at Shoji. @Sgee summed up the background of the chef and this establishment very well, but I’ll add that Chef Wilcox also informally trained with the legendary Kikuo Shimizu (who wrote this book). Shoji also recently hired Oona Tempest, a bit of a rising star in the NY sushi scene. For the last year or so, she helmed her own pop-up (Sushi by Bae) which was one of the better omakase counters in the $100 price range. Currently she’s assisting behind the scenes in the kitchen and with serving the kaiseki/kappo dishes. If/when she does start serving nigiri at the counter, I think it will be interesting to see how both her style and the Shoji style evolves.

Speaking of evolution, this is one of the pleasures or returning to this restaurant. Everything here gets incrementally better with every visit. We can quibble about how the nigiri compares to the other sushi bigs, but the composed dishes are fantastic.

I only took photos of the composed dishes; I have no self control and gobble up nigiri as soon as I’m served.


Introduced as squeteague a.k.a. “sea trout that isn’t sea trout” a.k.a. weakfish. Caught in Montauk, Long Island; it was salt cured, spread with a “schmear” of soy cream, rolled up and served with tosazu (bonito infused vinegar sauce) jelly with capers. The NY appetizing theme is pretty obvious, but exquisitely executed. There were 2 pieces but I ate 1 before I took the photo.


Fluke, also from Montauk, served with NY-state concord grapes, wasabi and side sauce made from the fluke liver, which was smoked over walnut.


wild shima-aji sashimi (look at that pink color!) with a condiment made from red peppers, chives, soy, vinegar and some other ingredients I didn’t catch. Tasted like relish. I should have asked for this striped jack as nigiri later.


Miso marinated, grilled sawara (spanish mackerel) with matsutake mushrooms (from Maine) and a slice of sudachi. Grilling of fish here is always flawless.


Simmered tako (from Sajima) with a salad of radish, carrot and persimmon in a miso sauce


California spot prawn agedashi with kabocha squash in a thickened dashi made from the shrimp heads. Side of grated daikon and ginger. This was a perfect late Fall dish!

nigiri parade:
sumi-ika - cuttlefish
kohada - very very well done!
aji - horse mackerel, also very well done
kinki - from hokkaido, great fat but also super nice crunchy-chewy-firm texture
chutoro - from maine
uni from main
uni from santa barbara
mini-ikura don (tis the season)
scallop (nantucket) isobayaki - seaweed very crisp & scallop was super sweet, a real highlight!
anago - very old-school tsume sauce
negi-toro handroll
red pepper soup

plus some add-ons: fluke engawa, jabara (“belly button meat,” same maguro from Maine) & peak-season Boston mackerel. This saba can go fin-to-fin with the best Japanese saba I’ve had. Dessert included a yuzu granita and then poached pear w/cake. No photos, sorry!


#8

Thanks for the update. I still think he will shine with a greater emphasis on the composed dishes which as you noted are excellent.

I haven’t tried Oona’s sushi, pretty tough competition though going up against those hardcore single chef new heavy hitters and there are more of these guys headed to NYC next year. :scream:

:laughing: I can relate.