Sushi Saito - Hong Kong


#21

Mui Kee is excellent. Have one of you order fish congee and your better half order say the mixed organs congee. Get an order of the blanched carp skin with sesame oil and scallions as an appetizer. Do even try the younger son’s milk tea from the adjacent shared stall that is part of Mui Kee. I love how they stir fry the mixed boney wild local fish with ginger and scallion to seal in the flavor prior to making congee, and it has that smokey flavor like a katsuodashi (not quite the same haha). Oh don’t forget a bowl of chopped fried cruller to dunk in the congee. Jetlag cure and perfect if you arrive 6 am and head straight to Mong Kok. Take note of the 20 to 30 year old brass pot they use to cook the congee.

I’m hearing Mak’s is no good these days (even Wellington Street Central), you can certainly try but maybe just focus on the signature small bowl won ton noodles then move on to try other things. I would say try Mak An Kee (Chung Kee) on Wing Kut Street instead (although they are quite pricey). Try the dried tilefish shaved powder (which they give you on a soy sauce plate) lo mein…but you would have to ask for lard or oyster sauce since the combo is dry…but nobody else will give you dried shaved tilefish powder since it’s always used for wonton soup broth. My cousin loves Mak Siu Kee in Tin Hau, but they live around there… Also try Ho To Tai noodles in Yuen Long, their prawn roe noodle is very aromatic (and some say the best in town) and the shop is super old school looking so you have the atmosphere to boot. Kam’s…already hearing bad things about them, plus the horrendous wait (mostly tourists from SE Asia and Taiwan go there now). You may be better off going to Teen Hung in Yuen Long since you speak the lingo for a more blue collar but delicious experience and frankly Yuen Long is as blue collar OG neighborhood as you can get, and better value (plus lots and lots of opportunites to do bang bangs). Apparently the won ton noodles at Yung Kee Central is still good, they do the broth right and they do an authentic wrap on the wonton skins where the slack looks like “goldfish tail”. For that maybe the ground floor for a quick bite then move on haha, I’ll have to try that on my next trip.

Fei Jie is always awesome…I usually go for the Wong Pai deluxe combo, sauce + mustard a must. Great choice, I love their marinade. Head to Hei Hei around the corner for stinky tofu…maybe not the greatest but at least they have it and it’s quite good.

Australia…oh man the worst food in the world according to some locals. Haha. It’s an experience nonetheless if only to scratch off your bucket list if you haven’t been already. It’s a perfect case study for efficiency but not the greatest service. Ham, macaroni soup, and Campbell soup base, lol. Their scrambled eggs were not that great and the same goes for their steamed milk custard…and frankly Tai Hang has a dai pai dong that does scrambled egg better with shrimp or char siu. If you want something far more local and fun, as long as the better half doesn’t mind it’s dumpy as heck, is So Kee dai pai dong Sham Shui Po. 24 hours (note the day(s) they are closed)…their pork chop instant noodles are great (same with their “slippery beef” which you can add on). The locals are so friendly and they’ll chat with you. This is the kind of experience I really enjoy. Then right across the street is a noodle dai pai dong where you can get soy sauce lo mein and they add lard to it…apparently their pork knuckle is good too.


#22

The Tsuki Omakase sushi course is what the local media is raving about as good value. At $80 ish American money that is not bad at all and considering it’s in Central of all places where real estate is king. Don’t forget the typical 10% mandatory service charge that is usually included at all restaurants (it could be higher now).

You could probably add on pieces, but I’m not sure what the cost might be. They do some aging for their tuna (~6 days) but I’m not sure how much for other fish.

In Tokyo, the expectation is that the lunch course quality is as good as dinner. I am not sure how it is for Hong Kong but hopefully it’s not like in the US where lunch is from the previous night’s batch or before.

Oh one more thing…my friends in Hong Kong and even the more well respected local bloggers have warned me to stay away from Kau Kee. Rude, expensive, mediocre quality, and a waste of time waiting in line. You may be better off going across the street to eat something different like Sing Heung Yuen dai pai dong (tomato beef macaroni soup, lemon honey toasted burger buns). I don’t have the latest intel now on where to get the best clear broth brisket (I’ll have to dig into this also for myself), but it is certainly not at Kau Kee. Sister Wah in Tin Hau might be a better contender, but some say Baht Bo (8 treasures) is very good although their broth is more medicinal.


#23

You really outdid yourself this time! I’m thankful that you dropped off tons of knowledge. With that said, it’s unlikely that I’ll venture out to Yuen Long since most of my dinners are in the Central area so it’ll take me an hour to get to Yuen Long and takes another 2 hours to venture out to Central. In essence, I wanna keep things relatively close to the MK, Tsim Sha Tsui, and Central area. It’s basically a 3 hour bus/subway round trip for me everyday.

Based on your recs, I added Mak An Kee to my list so I’ll do a quick bang bang bang at that place along with Mak’s Noodle and Tsim Chai Kee to compare their wonton noodle especially since they’re within 5 mins of each other. Given that their portion isn’t that big, I’m hoping that I’ll still have an appetite for the fine dining dinners.

I also noted Yung Kee and Sing Heung Yue. But shouldn’t I be getting Yung Kee’s charcoal roast goose if I’m there since that’s what they’re famous for??

On the other hand, I might be able to get to Eight Treasures and Sister Wah in Tin Hau for a brisket bang bang!


#24

Yeah man, it would totally suck if you spent a fortune getting over there, wanting to have a solid authentic blue collar meal, and end up waiting in line a long time with tourists, overpaying for low quality brand name food.

You can do a bang bang in Yuen Long! It’s worth while and it can be a bit of a stretch but give yourself time and space. In no particular order just throwing an example out there of what you have available…

  • some dessert place, either fruit based with or without grass jelly. Take your pick.
  • cart/peddler noodle (I believe the name of the shop is Wing Leen, it’s a bit over visited but maybe still worth while)
  • there is a Chiu Chow noodle specialist place there that focuses on beef tripe/innards/tendons and uhm…penis (braised to the point where it tastes like tendon) and they may have the female part too lol. Blue collar enough for ya?
  • roast goose at Teen Hung, you can skip the carbs. Or live it up a little and get a thigh.
  • Ho To Tai (must get prawn roe lo mein) and one of their dumpling noodles is a must get as they make the skins a certain way (with fish mixed in?) I forgot the exact name at the moment.
  • Tai Wing Wah, but maybe for their mini rice pot where you get a small water bottle size of warm lard to drizzle over
  • Hung Heung Yuen for wife cake (lo por beng) which ironically is similar to Taiwanese style “sun cake” (Ta Yang Bing) but getting a fresh one from the main store is satisfying
  • Kei Kee is a store that specializes in old school Cantonese peanut candies, if you go in the afternoon that strip of the street is lively and has a lot of street food to sample to your stomach’s content.

That’s just scratching the surface

There’s also Tai Po Market which I think I told you about already, upstairs food stall heaven.

If you are going to Central, may I suggest starting very early for the following in any order or combination:

Head to Yue Hing on Stanley Street. It’s a Dai Pai Dong, go right when they open. Staffed by husband and wife…it takes time for their set meals (no substitutions and they don’t have condensed milk). Thin crust sandwiches with whacky combos but ultra delicious (yup, cabbage and peanut butter). Made with care but tastes very good.

Consider trekking to For Kee (it’s in a very odd and not terribly accessible location) and they are famous for their pork chops, but their beef satay toast is ridiculously good, strong milk teas and coffee. If you and your better half love cats, you might see them lounging around outside, very friendly despite them looking a bit fierce (or they could be sleeping).

Hike up to Hollywood Road and look for Gung Lei for old school sugar cane juice (it’s green, not brown like the American kind seen at Vietnamese nuoc mia drink shops where they add some kumquat)…do not miss the sugar cane jello if they have it.

Bourdain in his Parts Unknown Hong Kong went to this Dai Pai Dong on a sloped road (Yuk Yip)…their old school Cantonese desserts are great…peanut mochi dumpling (tong but lut), green bean with seaweed. I had no quota but pork knuckle noodle is supposed to be solid. Look for another Dai Pai Dong called Shui Kee (Shui = water) for tripe noodles, super clean tasting and wonderful…get ho fun and just a tiny dab of chili sauce. If you are lucky they may have that hard to get cut of brisket (song lahm).

Ser Wong Fun - you must try their double boiled soups (individual portion), you’ll be shelling out $12 or more for one but it’s fantastic. Try the fruit melon with conch, maybe one with chicken feet, the one with pork lung (superb), or whatever suits your fancy. The fruit melon with conch is a great intro. Oh the lap mei claypot rice with the burnt crispy bottom is fantastic and smokey, and it blew away this claypot rice place I went to in Tin Hau where the chef came from some famous place, and even outperformed this claypot rice specialist food stall in the Aldridge Market in Shau Kee Wan. For me this is the Cantonese pride of Hong Kong. If you go in the evening you might catch owner Paulina (Gigi) and usually her mom is there too, she’s quite a food celeb and she’s super knowledgeable about restaurants (she graduated from Cal State Hayward) and eats out A LOT. SWF gets a lot of visitors from overseas and celebs (well, ditto for The Chairman).

Never tried Tsim Chai Kee, but their wontons I hear are siu mai sized and larger. Some prefer to feel a bit more full and show disdain for the traditional sized dinky portion (which is supposed to be a snack anyway).

Yung Kee supposedly is way past its prime for roast goose, but I guess it doesn’t hurt to try to get some perspective, and you might as well try the sour ginger century egg appetizer. You could give Yat Lok in Central a try also but only get goose and nothing else (it’s appalling for them to get a star and the place is like a dumpy HK cafe!). For me I would only get the won ton noodles at Yung Kee which strangely is not their forte but I’m hearing it’s one of the best in town. Or if you do get roast goose, get it as an entree (Ha Jong) where you might get a bit of a drumstick included.

Well you could scrap a fine dining meal or two and do blue collar Yuen Long palooza all day then do a fine dining late night reservation in Central (provided the dress code is not seriously enforced)… :wink:


#25

I’ll give Yuen Long some thoughts. Here’s my schedule so far:

As you can see, my calendar is very detailed. Kavanaugh style. Lots of hanging out with Squi and Timmy locally starting from my arrival on the 20th or is my arrival never going to happen since I didn’t mark it down on my calendar??? :thinking: I’ll be in Macau on the 26th and 27th so those two days are wasted. I might forego hanging out with Timmy and Squi in favor of spending a day in Yuen Long though. The claypot rice is also intriguing so I might have to add that to my calendar. Which claypot rice should I get at Ser Wong Fun??

In regards to Tai Po, I just can’t conjure up enough gluttons to have a proper meal at a dai pai dong an hour away! I’m basically a lone diner for all of these meals with the exception of dining at Lung King Heen, Tasting Court, and The Chairman with my reluctant dad.

The reason why I have a fine dining dinner on most days is because I have to justify spending 3 hours of my time on a bus/subway. As good as a wonton noodle or roast goose can be, I can’t justify spending that much time on the road when my meal will only last 5 mins!


#26

The claypot rice you probably want to share with 1 or 2 other people. It looks like they have quite a few choices. Or if you are solo, that and a soup will put a stop to your bang bang real quick.

Do a google image search for 蛇王芬飯店煲仔飯 and filter out the ones that are not Ser Wong Fun to see what else they have.

I got the preserved meats combo or lap mei bo jai fan (lap cheung and yun cheung/duck liver sausage, and I think there was preserved duck as well). Or you could do a variant of lap mei + chicken. I also enjoyed their menu entry of lotus leaf wrapped garlic prawns rice. They have some preorder dishes as well but I’m not familiar with what they are these days.

Assuming you are going around December, so this is perfect timing for claypot rice anyway. If you want the trifecta of Cantonese winter comfort food, add on a bowl of snake soup, and get something with stir fried glutinous rice (or see if glutinous rice can be used in the claypot), and see if they have lamb brisket claypot. It’s overload but it’s heavenly during the winter.

Hmmm maybe you want to squeeze in a da been lo / Canto hot pot meal if you have enough people.

Your blue collar run doesn’t have to be in Yuen Long, and a lot of places are a bit spread out so the walking will help burn some calories :wink:


#27

Any thoughts of joining me on this intense food run? You can be my guide. :joy:


#28

I wish I could join!

Yeah it sounds like you need some help with the blue collar calories portion lol. FTC HK meetup someday!!

Although the meetup would include buying your seafood at the market at Ap Lei Chau then going to town upstairs and having the food stalls cook for you. Imagine doing our own wine and sake pairings on top!!

You’ll have to report on the “Three Saints” area of TM seafood scene for us! Enjoy.