A Master Class in Exquisite, Wonderful Sushi - Mori Sushi [Thoughts + Pics]

I don’t have a proper answer to that question.

There are multiple varieties of Japanese sake rice, and some are grown in various parts of Japan. Others are more limited to geographic locations and some are older/ancestral strains with their own flavor and characteristics. I guess the easiest way to experience is to try as many different types of sake out there from different regions, using different sake rice.

But I was wrong earlier, Takane Nishiki is not native to Niigata prefecture. It is grown in Nagano prefecture and is the parent (mother) rice grain to Miyama Nishiki.

Some good reading about sake rice here:

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I definitely want to go. But you guys told me I’m not ready :relaxed:.

this is the bullshittiest bullshit ever shit from a bull.

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Thanks for the link, very informative. You need to start a sake blog/forum!

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Honda Shoten is an amazing brewery with a storied history.

Ginjo-grade sake is a relatively new development in sake’s long history.
The ginjo boom began in 1981, but Honda Shoten began making daiginjo in 1970!

Getting to meet and speak with their chairman Mr. Takeyoshi Honda is always a pleasure.
He is getting up there in age, but still does his best to get to stateside trade shows and competitions.


(Summer 2016)

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LOL… I know, I know. It’s a joke linus… kinda’.

IIRC, before Sushi School began sessions I had asked for a sushi bday rec.; someplace good that wasn’t too expensive where I could get my feet wet and up my sushi knowledge. When I asked posters why they didn’t rec Mori I was told it didn’t fit any of that criteria. I think there were also comments about not being able to appreciate the subtleties of Shunji or Mori (seasonality & knife work are good examples). They were responding to an interest I have right now, which is more than simple enjoyment. But I get what you’re saying and used to “oh brother” when posters would go on and on. I get it - stop the nonsense, pop it in your mouth and enjoy. Here, here! I’m a grown azz woman and can go where I want, so nah. But I’m putting learning over simple enjoyment right now, so…

Happy any way you want to do it sushi eating!

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Hi @Starchtrade,

Thanks for the info! :slight_smile: And that’s awesome that you got to meet Takeyoshi Honda himself! Wow. :slight_smile:

I can’t wait to try their other offerings. Do you have any recs from their lineup? Thanks.

Hi @TheCookie,

I know you enjoy good food, so I think you’ll enjoy Mori or Shunji regardless of where your sushi knowledge is: After all, the quality of fish, care in their dishes, etc., should come through no matter what. :slight_smile:

Besides that, though, you’ve been doing great exploring sushi in your Sushi School reports, really understanding what you enjoy and don’t, and being cognizant of more subtleties as well, which is awesome! :grin:

Ultimately, you can definitely go whenever you want to! :wink: Although, which sushi restaurant were you going to next?

Mr Honda takes Otaku-ism for sake to the next level, seriously. I don’t recall exactly what degree he holds but he’s super knowledgeable about cultivating sake rice (no doubt with Yamadanishiki as his specialty), and supposedly he still teachers/lectures on the subject at the university.

There are stories of him doing really out of the box things before competitors jumped on the bandwagon. So in a way he’s quite the pioneer in his field. One was that he was the first to come up with the super flat rice polishing technique, and came up with the machine and specs to do the job. Somehow that technology got picked up by Daishichi (or they commissioned them to help them with their own super flat rice polish machine), and Daishichi’s claim to fame is this technology which they claim to be their own… though this is all 2nd or 3rd hand information to be fair from industry folks. The most interesting tidbit I heard recently is that he adds katsuo bones (either crushed or grinded into powder) to mix into the soil to grow Yamadanishiki rice, with the aim to impart further umami flavors to the rice. Mori-san probably knows more on this (or perhaps @Starchtrade has heard more). Apparently he also has a super limited run of a 20 year aged sake, I want to say it is their top of the line Akitsu Junmai Daiginjo, carefully aged in sub zero temperatures. So perhaps a 1996 or 1997 vintage (coincidentally I saw the 1996 vintage online for sale in Hong Kong).

Yes, him and his crew are doing the rounds in California next month. There are at least two stops (both in Northern California) for sake related promotion/events.

Honda Shoten prides itself in researching and using the best of the best Yamadanishiki sake rice to brew their sake.
The concentration of these rice fields are spread across a few areas in Hyogo Prefecture, namely Kato City (west side formerly known as Yashiro), East side (formerly known as Tojo), North/North East side (Kami Tojo Area) and Miki City (Yokawa Machi). Together these fields make up what is called the Yamadanishiki rice field Special District A.

There are probably better and more detailed maps online, but my Google skillz aren’t Otaku enough.

So, as you can see, Tatsuriki or whoever is helping them do marketing, try to liken their appellation of high grade sake rice fields (and the differing qualities and flavors you get out of them) to terroir for wine, or someone calling them essentially the DRC of sake for comparison. It can be a little bit too much but it’s easy to see why that comparison was made.

There are quite a number of sake breweries that get their sake rice from these fields for their top of the line bottles, but even if using the supposed same rice, they don’t necessarily taste the same.

Tatsuriki’s exported top two bottles, Akitsu and Yokawa Yoneda, are named after the specific rice fields from which the rice for brewing originated from. Yokawa Yoneda is cultivated with organic fertilizers. Akitsu is seriously premium stuff, though I can’t say if that’s the pinnacle…but that bottle is super hard to top.

And yes they have different bottles using rice from different fields (but not necessarily all of them).

They have some fantastic looking labels too (here are some that are Japan only)

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hey man, i simply won’t stand for you shaming your own enjoyment.
i’m sure it’s got a lot of layers, just like everybody else’s.

respect.

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Thanks for the detailed report! Always a pleasure reading about what’s going on at Mori!

That’s Maru-san’s other way of saying that the best sake pairing with food (or selecting good sake in general) is not necessarily with the top of the line super polished, and/or most expensive bottles. Wing of Japan and Dreams Come True are a bit closer to one another in profile (though quite different in other ways), so the next best bottle of Born that is exported would probably be their Junmai Daiginjo Tokusen, which is dryer than the Gold based on specs.

Two possibly equivalent to the Born Gold and fun/apt bottles to try at Mori Sushi, if available for purchase in LA (no idea where) would be Gasanryu Gokugetsu Junmai Daiginjo (black bottle) and/or Gasanryu Kisaragi Daiginjo (blue bottle), which have that lively and clean characteristic as well (Gokugetsu and Kisaragi were designed and built for sushi/sashimi), and just like the Born Gold, both are single pasteurized (nama zume), and need to be kept and served chilled to lightly chilled for best results.

Kirinzan, was your Junmai Daiginjo bottle purchased from Mori? If so, was it listed on the menu or a sake special from his stash? Kirinzan sakes are very solid, from the low end to the high end.

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Hi @beefnoguy,

Thanks again! Wow, the rice knowledge is awesome! :smile: And yah, Maru-san was talking about the different grades of rice and how the Nihon no Sakura from Tatsuriki was using the highest grade possible. Interesting.

Have you tried the Tatsuriki Akitsu and Yokawa Yoneda?

Really after being blown away by their Nihon no Sakura that Maru-san personally recommended to us (and it was so good!), I can’t even imagine how much better it can get! :sweat_smile: :open_mouth:

I really feel like exploring more of the Tatsuriki line after that stellar taste. :slight_smile: Then again, I still have to one day finish the Born line (after your recommendation!) and the Koshi no Kanbai line that Mori seems to have the entire lineup of… One day. :sweat_smile:

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Hi @Sgee,

Did you enjoy your Kirinzan special release? :slight_smile: Which restaurant was offering this? Thanks!

Hi @Chowseeker1999, I had the Kirzan at a yakitori joint - Torishige in Tokyo. Thought it paired well, bright floral flavors upfront with a touch of savoriness at the tail end. Sorry not the best description; still a sake novice.

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Thanks @Sgee! :slight_smile: Would you recommend Torishige? Great yakitori?

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@Chowseeker1999 It was recommended by Chef Kazuo Nagayama at Daisan Harumi sushi. My first higher end yakitori experience in Tokyo; I enjoyed it. Honestly food quality is so high in Tokyo, its tough to have a bad meal.

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Thanks! Looks so good! :slight_smile: Bookmarked.

Uh oh, there are 2 Torishige coming up. Which one did you go to? Thanks @Sgee

Fyi I went to the branch in Ginza. 2nd floor right across Dover Street Mkt. :wink:

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Thanks for that @Chowseeker1999!

Yah, I think I would have enjoyed these places a few months ago. Good food is good food. But I’m glad to have waited, to appreciate it more.

[quote=“Chowseeker1999, post:135, topic:3358”]
Although, which sushi restaurant were you going to next?
[/quote]Funny you should mention that. I do have a couple of 201s still to post. But I’ve been working hard on a job thing and wanted to treat myself to a 301. St. Husband would probably prefer your CUT experience or @J_L’s Yazawa… decisions :thinking:

Anyway, thanks for all your encouragement. I’ll keep you posted.

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:kissing_heart: