Bombay and delhi, december 2018

after my week in hong kong i spent another week in bombay and then two weeks in delhi (before coming to los angeles for another week en route home to minnesota). while i still have a few hong kong meal reports to go (including lung king heen and tim ho wan), i’ve begun to post my bombay reports.

the first was a quick account of lunch at an iconic bombay restaurant, swati snacks in tardeo. they specialize in gujarati and marathi foods both traditional and not (think bajri paneer pizza). an absolutely necessary stop for anyone visiting bombay.

the second (though not the second meal) is a report on dinner at jai hind lunch home in bandra. jai hind is one of many similar establishments in bombay that specialize in the seafood-based cuisines of the southwest coast: mangalorean, konkani, malvani, goan. taken as a larger whole, this is one my absolute favourite “cuisines” and one that’s poorly represented in the u.s, if at all. for that matter it’s poorly represented elsewhere in india as well.

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continuing my bombay reports, here is an account of the lunch i ate the day of my dinner at jai hind. a film-maker friend who i was consulting with on my likely work in the city in three years time took me to just kerala, a restaurant in a small hotel in andheri east that specializes in the food of–you guessed it–kerala. there is nothing fancy about the food here–just good, solid malayali food. we ate the sadhya, which is basically a thali served on a banana leaf with endless refills. added on a buffalo fry (very good) and a shrimp curry (just good). full write-up here.

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goan food isn’t all about vindaloo and sorpotel. highway gomantak in bandra serves a seafood-based cuisine of a particular (gomantak) goan/konkani community. this food is barely known in north india, leave alone outside india. restaurants like highway gomantak–both for their food and atmosphere–are a major part of the flavour of bombay’s food scene. no foodie’s trip to bombay is complete without a visit to a restaurant like this.

continuing with my reports from bombay and delhi in december: if you are looking for christian goan food, floyd cardoz’s mod’ish goan o pedro has been very well reviewed since it opened a couple of years ago and i enjoyed both my dinners there. but i liked even more a more traditional lunch in delhi at viva o viva, the restaurant in the goa state government guesthouse.

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Here is my review of dinner at an outpost of Big Wong in Delhi in December. The food is ordinary; alas, so is the casual racism of their logo.

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Grateful for this posting. Headed there soon! Thanks a bunch!

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you can see all my bombay reviews here.

and all my delhi reviews here.

let me know where you’ll be staying in either city and what your interests/preferences are and i can make specific recommendations for places beyond those i’ve reviewed at the links above. keep in mind, that you’re not going to be able to eat out successfully in india dining solo unless you are going to a) a thali-style place or b) one of the few tasting menu’ish places.

I’ve read all of them already. Excellent. Thank you! Swati Snacks definitely on the list!

i think that is one of a small handful of absolute must-visits. definitely get the panki with chutney.

mr. kohinoor of britannia just died at 97. you should go to britannia while you have the opportunity and get the berry pulao and salli boti so you can say you had that good fortune. it’s not clear what the future of the restaurant will be.

Thank you! It’s on the list!

so, where did you eat?

Brittania - paid our respects to the family of Bowman Kohinoor, delicious

!

Bombay Canteen - service so-so, food was brilliant - pics later maybe

Trishna - green chile prawn was the star of the show as was the excellent service

Masque - hit and miss, compared to L.A. a bargain of a tasting menu, always want to give those who stretch a chance


Also ate great food in Kerala, Tamil Nadu, Rajasthan and Uttar Pradesh.

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