Modern Chinese Cuisine Steeped in Tradition, but Accessible to a Wider Audience and New Generation – Succulent Roasted Pork Shoulder Char Siu, Supple Hainan Chicken Rice, Outrageous Pork Chop Buns and More! – Needle and Pearl River Deli [Thoughts + Pics]

Update 6 (To-Go):

Besides the stunning Wonton Noodles that Chef Johnny Lee was adding to the menu this weekend, he’s also added 3 new specials as part of a tribute to Vietnamese cuisine(!). :open_mouth: (And perhaps a warm up to his collaboration with Ancom.la.)

(Special) Banh Nam (Steamed Rice Dumpling with Ground Pork and Dried Shrimp):

As Chef Lee puts it, this is a Hue-inspired dish (Central Vietnam), and looks a bit like a Chinese Zhongzi, but thinner.

First, the Rice filling is silky and much softer than a Chinese Zhongzi. The texture reminds us of @Dommy’s favorite Yucatecan Tamales, moist and softer exterior. The filling of Ground Pork and Dried Shrimp is tasty, but when dipped in some of Chef Lee’s Nuoc Mam Dipping Sauce (a Fish Sauce and Chili combination), it really sings! :blush:

(Special) Com Ga Hoi An (Shredded Chicken and Herb Salad over Turmeric Chicken Rice):

Now initially it might seem like a “poor man’s Hainan Chicken Rice,” but it’s something totally different: The fresh Herb Salad on top is wonderful. Impeccably pristine, clean, bright Basil and Mint and Onions awakens your palate as you take a bite, then into a piece of fresh Poached Shredded Chicken, lightly seasoned, but a complement to the Turmeric Chicken Rice, which is aromatic and has a light tartness to balance out the savory. Delicious! :blush:

One impressive note: The Poached Shredded Chicken is fresh, made that day for the order. It tastes fresh and vibrant and that really is important to this dish as the main protein. Those that know about restaurants and profit margins realize that the Lunch “Chicken Salad” or “Chicken Soup” served at a restaurant? Probably leftovers from the unsold Roasted Chicken the night before, and you can taste it in restaurants that do this.

It’s not that the Chicken went bad, but you can taste the refrigerated funk (even if it’s just overnight), compared to freshly cooked Chicken for that Salad or Soup you’re having. Here for the Com Ga Hoi An, Chef Lee cuts no corners and the Chicken is made today for this dish only. Wonderful. :slight_smile:

Lemongrass Pork Chop (Served with Rice, Fried Egg, Scallion Oil, and Pickled Daikon and Carrots):

This feels like Chef Lee’s take on a Vietnamese Com Tam (Broken Rice) plate, except here at Pearl River Deli, there is an incredible Heritage Pork Chop, perfectly grilled, just cooked through, and it’s meaty, juicy, tender, nice grill marks, delicious Lemongrass notes, and the Scallion Oil topping makes this sing! :heart:

Add on some of the Nuoc Mam (Fish Sauce based Dipping Sauce) and it takes it to another level! :blush: The Pickled Daikon and Carrots add a nice foil to each bite as well. While it’s not traditional Broken Rice, the Steamed Rice here was fine.

Wonton Charsiu Noodles:

To make absolutely sure what we had yesterday for Pearl River Deli’s debut for Wonton Noodle Soup wasn’t a dream, we had to order it again today (to see if it was a dream or a fluke? (I hope not))…

It wasn’t a fluke. :blush:

Taking a sip, the Housemade Wonton Soup, with Pork, Chicken and Shrimp Heads as a base is even better than the 1st visit! :open_mouth: It’s delicate, but has pure, clean flavors.

This is the type of light Broth that we love sipping, even on a warm day. :blush: Outstanding!

The Pork Neck Charsiu (Add-On) is still excellent today as well! Chef Lee has really improved this Charsiu and it’s meaty with just enough fattiness to balance out each bite without overwhelming. And it’s a great accompaniment to the Wonton Noodle Soup! :heart:

Housemade Wontons:

But it’s Chef Johnny Lee’s Housemade Wontons, some incredible recipe with Marinated Ground Pork and Shrimp that still tastes super bright, fresh and inherently sweet (like Fresh / Live Shrimp). This is absolutely delicious! :heart:

While we’re in a pandemic, and this is just a new dish that debuted as a Special right now, it’s understandable that Chef Lee didn’t prepare any Red Vinegar or Chili Oil to accompany this dish for Takeout.

But since our veteran FTC’ers strongly recommended that those condiments should be used for more enjoyment, we took @J_L @Sgee @beefnoguy’s advice:

BYORVCO (Bring Your Own Red Vinegar and Chili Oil):

(Note, I realize the Chili Oil doesn’t exactly match the one we used at Noodle Boy, but we searched the aisles of 99 Ranch Market and this was the closest Chili Oil we found to that.) :wink:

Using the @Sgee Method™ of a few drops of Chili Oil and a bit of Red Vinegar, taking a bite…

Delicious! :blush:

It really does change the flavor and adds a new facet to each bite!

Ultimately, though, in a testament to the cooking prowess of Chef-Owner Johnny Lee, his Housemade Wontons were spectacular on their own, without any Red Vinegar or Chili Oil (but we enjoyed those add ons as well).

Pearl River Deli yet again delivers an outstanding culinary experience: This weekend, a tribute to Vietnamese cuisine, with a wonderful Banh Nam (Rice Dumpling), Com Ga Hoi An (Shredded Chicken and Herb Salad over Turmeric Rice) and his take on a Broken Rice plate, a delicious Grilled Lemongrass Pork Chop over Rice with Nuoc Mam Dipping Sauce.

I’ll defer to our FTC Vietnamese Cuisine experts (@Ns1 @attran99 @JeetKuneBao @hppzz and others) on how Chef Lee’s dishes compare to the OG standouts, but what we had were quite tasty and I’d be glad to order them again if Chef Lee brings it back next month! :slight_smile:

But whatever happens, let’s hope Chef Lee keeps the new Wonton Noodle Soup on the menu. It is simply the Best Wonton Noodle Soup in L.A. right now. Do not miss! (@PorkyBelly @J_L @paranoidgarliclover @Sgee @beefnoguy @JeetKuneBao and others.)

Pearl River Deli
727 N. Broadway, #130
Los Angeles, CA 90012
Tel: (626) 688-9507

(Check their IG for latest specials and updates):

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