… in three meals this fall and winter, enough other things have gone awry
in the kitchen and dining room to make that theory seem unlikely.
Enough, also, to make the perception of Per Se as one of the country’s
great restaurants, which I shared after visits in the past, appear out
of date. …
Dinner or lunch at this grand, hermetic, self-regarding, ungenerous
restaurant brings a protracted march of many dishes. …
The kitchen could improve the bacon-wrapped cylinder of quail simply by
not placing it on top of a dismal green pulp of cooked romaine lettuce,
crunchy and mushy at once. Draining off the gluey, oily liquid would
have helped a mushroom potpie from turning into a swampy mess. I don’t
know what could have saved limp, dispiriting yam dumplings, but it
definitely wasn’t a lukewarm matsutake mushroom bouillon as murky and
appealing as bong water.